Landrover Doscovery fuel injectors......

ploughbynight

I have just shelled out €300 a piece for 4 injectors for my td5 01 disco(reconditioned). Please tell me I havent been taken to the cleaners!

101sean

About right. Unusual to have to change a single injector on a TD5 let alone 4 though, what was the problem? Got the diagnostic stuff to put new injector codes in the ECU?

ploughbynight

Got LR dealer to run diagnostics and came up with injector for No3 cylinder faulty when warm and they recommended replace all 4. They say that this is quite common after 150K.
Wasnt figuring on needing reprogramming. Would you suggest leaving it for my friendly local mechanic?

Thanks again, youve put mu mind at rest before.

101sean

Typical LR dealer not knowing what they are talking about, especially when they say replace all 4, it has 5 injectors! They were hoping you'd pay them to do the work. Failing injectors at 150k is BS.

Before you open the packets, take it to someone who knows what they are doing and get them to check the fault codes and the injector balance readings. Were you down on power or smoking?

The ECU needs to know the codes printed on the injectors or the engine will run poorly.

You can do all this yourself if you get a Nanocom for around £230 and plug it into the OBDII socket on your disco. It will read the ECU, ABS, SLABS, and ACE on the Disco II and alter many of the settings inc the injector codes. I have one for my Defender and it's been a godsend, saved my brother in law £400 at a dealer when all the fault needed was a 10c fuse:mad:

Your local mechanic may have a generic code reader but won't be able to alter settings unless it's expensive gear.

Whereabouts are you based?

Were those recondititioned injectors? That €300 should get you new ones.

Jonty

101sean wrote: »

Typical LR dealer not knowing what they are talking about, especially when they say replace all 4, it has 5 injectors! They were hoping you'd pay them to do the work. Failing injectors at 150k is BS.

Before you open the packets, take it to someone who knows what they are doing and get them to check the fault codes and the injector balance readings. Were you down on power or smoking?

The ECU needs to know the codes printed on the injectors or the engine will run poorly.

You can do all this yourself if you get a Nanocom for around £230 and plug it into the OBDII socket on your disco. It will read the ECU, ABS, SLABS, and ACE on the Disco II and alter many of the settings inc the injector codes. I have one for my Defender and it's been a godsend, saved my brother in law £400 at a dealer when all the fault needed was a 10c fuse:mad:

Your local mechanic may have a generic code reader but won't be able to alter settings unless it's expensive gear.

Whereabouts are you based?

Were those recondititioned injectors? That €300 should get you new ones.

I was thinking that myself

ploughbynight

Ah bolleex! Typical, in fairness I have the 5 injectors, they said replace the other 4 as well. So you think maybe not. I know when we are doing the injectors on tractors we usually get all reconditioned or replace all.

The symptoms were, when the disco warmed up, the power was down and it felt as if it was a diesel problem and a rough sound. I thought it was the lift pump or the air mass flow metre but I took it to local mechanic, who checked out both and then brought it to LR dealer in Navan, and they diagnosed faulty injectors from the diagnostics tool.
The injectors were reconditioned.

So I'm being taken for a ride...

Thanks again for the info, I dont think its a good investment for me to buy a Nanocom as I am part-time arabel farming and holding ajob and time at certain parts of the year is a problem. Thansk fo rthe advice.
Question.. would you replace just 1 injector?

101sean

Yes you can replace just one. As you have them all I suppose you may as well change them. Do you get your diesel from reliable source? Only time I've heard of Td5 injector failure is from using diesel from a dirty tank.

You are supposed to use a special tool to extract the injector but it can be done by using a small pry bar but not on the electronics side. You'll also need to remove the rocker shaft and reset the clearances after. Manual says replace the adjuster screws but no-one does.

Have you got a workshop manual? If not, do a google on RAVE cd and download one.

ploughbynight

Have a workshop manual CD I bought in UK and a Haynes manual but the Haynes is for pre series II, so will proceed with caution.
Thanks for the info

ploughbynight

Got local guy to fit and he reset/recalibrated by bringing it to LR dealer. Cost me just over 1800 all told.
I have a dodgy clutch and it squeels abit and there is very little travel in the pedal. About a year ago a guy put a new clutch disc in on its own and it was worse for a while. I nuresed it on but now unless you are extremely careful, 2nd gear can bite a little. What would you advise. Should I replace the master cylinder first and see if it makes any difference or what do you think

101sean

Just changing part of a clutch is false economy, it's probable that the cover plate is worn along with the release bearing. What's it like going into first and reverse, these get crunchy if not impossible if clutch isn't disengaging properly? 2nd gear can be notchy on R380 gearboxes even when new.

When you say there isn't much pedal travel, do you mean it's down to the floor, not going down at all or clutch biting at bottom of travel? Normally if there's a problem with a master cylinder you get fluid leaking down the pedal and the clutch doesn't disengage.

ploughbynight

Clutch does not start to engage until fully pressed down. The squeel sounds like a release bearing. Sometimes if you are stppoed for a period at a junction etc.. putting into 1st can be sticky, but reverse is ok and the only real issue i have is that if you are trying to accelerate rapidly 2nd gear can grate if you are not careful.
There is no leakage of fluid.
LR dealer indciated about €3000 for new clutch whihc is out the window.
I am still mobile and I have drivien it like this for a long time now but I am afraid it will let me down or worse, let my wife down.
Is it worth considering a clutch from a scrapped TD5 or what do you think.
Thanks again...

101sean

If you can still drive it I wouldn't panic too much. Has the gearbox got the right oil in it? Should be MTF94 (fairly expensive stuff) although you can get away with ATF DII but the gearchange won't be so good. I've known muppet garages use EP90 to top them up (smells llike cats pee), mine had it in when I bought it, had to fit a new box later on :rolleyes:

Whoever said €3000 for a clutch change was taking the pee. A non genuine clutch kit should be had for around a €100, add around €250 if your flywheel is US (they are a dual mass type than can crack or worse, yours isn't making the wrong noises though!) and about 5 hours labour.

Check your gearbox oil first, you'll need a torx drive bit to get the filler/level plug out

ploughbynight

Again the €3000 was for a new LR clutch. Last year I searcehd the web and found clutch kits for €100-200, but the mechanics I was talking to at the time said they wouldnt be prepared to strip down the clutch and fit the kits. They were saying to the get the entire unit.
Gear box is ok for oil, I checked it a good while back in the really cold weather as I was getting a very notchy gearchaneg in the cold, after it warmed up I was grand. At the time some of the UK forums were debating the ups and downs of MTF94 and some were using and getting better results form using 10w40 etc.. I am a fan of ATF for these high rpm applications at least in Agri type gearboxes and high temp.
SO am I correct in saying when my clutch goes, buy a kit and let my local lads strip it down and replace the innards, and try and get my hands on a decent flywheel. DO these flywheels skim successfully. I would rather do everything together so I am not revisiting in a few months. A mechanic I was with a few years ago, sad that my clutch problem was most like a dodgy spiggot bearing in the gearbox. Anyhow, we'll see when clutch caves in. Any handly solution for a series of yellow warning lights (ABS, ECH, Hill descent) I was told a faulty ABS sensor on front right hand hub and that sensors could not be replaced without repalcing teh €800 hub. Also a red light "SRS" is on all the time.
Jeeze I am really testing your patience now. Anyhow a sincere thank you for everything up to now.. It is hugely appreciated.....

BeardyGit

MTF94 is the only lube you should run in the R380 'box. Think you know better? Fair enough, it's your wallet after all. Spend the few quid to switch to MTF though and you might find that notchy 2nd a thing of the past. It's also not all that expensive for what it is. Spirit charge about €11 a liter, and you'll only need 3 x 1L bottles. Hell of a lot cheaper than swapping a box.

The warning lights are commonly known as the 3 Amigos in LR circles. Here's one thread discussing some causes and cures. Do a google and you'll find truckloads.

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=82651

Don't know much about the dual mass flywheel being an issue on the Disco II, but you could always sniff around somewhere like the Disco specific forum over on landrovernet.com - Knowedgeable enough lads there, and they like to DIY it when they can. If there's a way around having to shell out wads and still get a good workable fix, they'll know it.

101sean

That landrovernet forum link is probably the most knowlegeable one (I hang around there too!) but www.landroveraddict.com is good as well (has an Ireland section, handy in appealing for bits)

As Gil said, the three amigos is quite common, I remember a mate who was a demonstrator for Land Rover could get them up in a brand new one off road :eek:

The usual cause as you've been told is a failing wheel bearing upsetting the the abs sensor and only cure is a new hub. They don't cost €800, 250 to 300 would be nearer the mark, not from a dealer of course. The cheap cure is to pull the fuse :eek:

Don't know about the SRS, best to ask on one of the above forums, I know more about Defenders and earlier vehicles than the comfy stuff

With the clutch, you can't skim dual mass flywheels AFAIK. You can now buy a normal flywheel and clutch kit for around €400 from Paddocks (think it's made by Rakeway), you may end up with a bit of a rattle at idle though. Whatever way you go, fit a new spigot bearing in the flywheel at the same time, won't be included in a clutch kit.

trackcar

SRS = Airbag