Protecting cedar cladding...(and teak doors)...

jwb1

I got some nice cedar cladding installed last winter and I want to maintain it regularly to protect against weather etc. I don't want to let it fade to that silvery grey effect which some people seem to like. I think the guys who installed it just applied some teak oil with a cloth as initial protection. Is this the best option? How often should I do it - once per year?

Also, I got some really good (exterior) teak doors installed at the time. Can someone recommend the best (clear) varnish to use on these? I presume it's a case of light sanding followed by varnishing? How many coats?

Thanks - John

ttm

Check out the range that a company called Owatrol do. I use Owatrol Textrol on a pine clad extension and it is very easy to put on very easy to maintain (recoat every year or second year) and if you want they also do a cleaner you can just to get back to the new wood look.

The thing I like about Textrol is that its not like paint and actually soaks into the wood so recoating 2 years later is just a matter off a wash off or brush off then splash it on. To get best penetration you have to do 2 coats to start with and get the second coat on before the first is dry, in the folowing years one coat is fine.

Coverage 5m square per litre for two coats coats (10 m square per coat) about 100euro for 5l

Also best used on slightly weathered timber so it sinks in better.

I probably wouldn't use the Textrol on the doors if you want that perfect vanish look but varnish and teak aren't great friends especially if the wood is full of teak oil so I'd check out some of the other Owtrol finishes as I know they have a load of options for finishing teak.

Edit> Should have mentioned I recoat one face of our pine cladding every year because it gets the full force of the rain and wind directly off the sea, the sides only need doing every other year and a better quality cladding like cedar probabaly wouldn't need such regular treatment.

Textrol - online link

Carlow52

Check out Sadolin products either

jwb1

ttm wrote: »

Check out the range that a company called Owatrol do. I use Owatrol Textrol on a pine clad extension and it is very easy to put on very easy to maintain (recoat every year or second year) and if you want they also do a cleaner you can just to get back to the new wood look.

The thing I like about Textrol is that its not like paint and actually soaks into the wood so recoating 2 years later is just a matter off a wash off or brush off then splash it on. To get best penetration you have to do 2 coats to start with and get the second coat on before the first is dry, in the folowing years one coat is fine.

Coverage 5m square per litre for two coats coats (10 m square per coat) about 100euro for 5l

Also best used on slightly weathered timber so it sinks in better.

I probably wouldn't use the Textrol on the doors if you want that perfect vanish look but varnish and teak aren't great friends especially if the wood is full of teak oil so I'd check out some of the other Owtrol finishes as I know they have a load of options for finishing teak.

Edit> Should have mentioned I recoat one face of our pine cladding every year because it gets the full force of the rain and wind directly off the sea, the sides only need doing every other year and a better quality cladding like cedar probabaly wouldn't need such regular treatment.

Textrol - online link

Thanks....any idea where I can get this stuff in Cork? Like you, I'm facing out onto the sea as well....

ttm

jwb1 wrote: »

Thanks....any idea where I can get this stuff in Cork? Like you, I'm facing out onto the sea as well....

Online? Check the link, but postage is a bit pricey but still less than the discount you get on the larger sizes.

I'm in Dungarvan (Co. Waterford) and I bought it in Moloney's Hardware when they reduced old stock to half price so I got a great deal on it. Last time I looked they had got some full price stock of the 1l size in but that would cost a fortune. MJ Currans also had the 5l in some months back and I can't imagine they sold out was about 120euro for 5l. All you can really do is phone around the builders merchants and hardware stores to see is anyone has it, most won't have ever heard of it.

If you are up this way let PM me and you can take a look at what its like. If you were doing the side of a house you could and up needing 200-400euros worth of materials so might be worth checking you like the finish first?

Double Barrel

What's the matter with grey.
Teak & cedar, red or white, are zero maintenance products left in their natural state, plenty of oil's migrate to the surface and protect naturally. Grey is beautiful.

Teak doors.
Varnish - Lots of work initially but looks good and lasts a long time. Do not skimp buy the good stuff.

Teak Oil - Minimal prep work, goes on easy, needs to be reapplied every couple months if outside.

Varnish is all about prep work.

The best spar varnish imho is a Dutch boat varnish, Epfanes, it is pricey but for exterior doors it's worth every penny. It has a slow drying time so you have to take that into account. Start early with prep and apply a first coat by 10 am let dry 24 hr, apply second coat, repeat.
International Flagship varnish is a bit faster drying.

jwb1

ttm wrote: »

Online? Check the link, but postage is a bit pricey but still less than the discount you get on the larger sizes.

I'm in Dungarvan (Co. Waterford) and I bought it in Moloney's Hardware when they reduced old stock to half price so I got a great deal on it. Last time I looked they had got some full price stock of the 1l size in but that would cost a fortune. MJ Currans also had the 5l in some months back and I can't imagine they sold out was about 120euro for 5l. All you can really do is phone around the builders merchants and hardware stores to see is anyone has it, most won't have ever heard of it.

If you are up this way let PM me and you can take a look at what its like. If you were doing the side of a house you could and up needing 200-400euros worth of materials so might be worth checking you like the finish first?

I found some good info on the web about Textrol products; it definitely seems the business. I have a follow-on question: the cladding has already been treated with a few coats of teak oil. So, will I have to use a cleaner or stripper of some sort before I apply the Textrol oil? Or, can the oil just be applied on top of the teak oil?

Thanks for your assistance so far...

JB

ttm

tbh thats not a question I can answer as I have never used Textrol on Cedar or Textrol on wood that has had teak oil applied first, but I do have a few comments that might help you decide.

Firstly teak oil "disappears" into the wood very quickly , probably why you want to find something different to use, Textrol also soaks in very well, so my guess is that if you think the wood is due another coat of teak oil then it won't need "cleaning" before you use the Textrol.

On the other hand, you want to keep the new look cedar wood colour so perhaps now would be the time to use a cleaner on it first to bring back the colour. Also the first coats of Textrol are the most important to get right so again perhaps clean.

I would guess with the recent weather we have had you don't need to clean but if you do I'm sure I read there is a cleaner in the same product range designed to do just what you may require - clean the surface so it will accept the finish and also bring back the surface colour.

Not tried it but you can tint the Clear Textrol to add a bit of colour.

btw I think the company that sells Textrol in Ireland does a big very informative catalog so perhaps they'd send you one if you call or email them.

I also agree with Double Barrel that natural grey aged cedar looks nice and in most exposures is good for years with no treatment whatsoever.

Just a thought for the door take a look at another (expensive ) Owtrol product Deks Olje I've never tried it as I can't afford it but I believe it gives good lasting results in your type of enviroment? Its a two part finish so you need both D1 and D2, I think you'll find it in some ships chandlers around Cork and perhaps they can advise if it is suitable.

jwb1

ttm wrote: »

tbh thats not a question I can answer as I have never used Textrol on Cedar or Textrol on wood that has had teak oil applied first, but I do have a few comments that might help you decide.

Firstly teak oil "disappears" into the wood very quickly , probably why you want to find something different to use, Textrol also soaks in very well, so my guess is that if you think the wood is due another coat of teak oil then it won't need "cleaning" before you use the Textrol.

On the other hand, you want to keep the new look cedar wood colour so perhaps now would be the time to use a cleaner on it first to bring back the colour. Also the first coats of Textrol are the most important to get right so again perhaps clean.

I would guess with the recent weather we have had you don't need to clean but if you do I'm sure I read there is a cleaner in the same product range designed to do just what you may require - clean the surface so it will accept the finish and also bring back the surface colour.

Not tried it but you can tint the Clear Textrol to add a bit of colour.

btw I think the company that sells Textrol in Ireland does a big very informative catalog so perhaps they'd send you one if you call or email them.

I also agree with Double Barrel that natural grey aged cedar looks nice and in most exposures is good for years with no treatment whatsoever.

Just a thought for the door take a look at another (expensive ) Owtrol product Deks Olje I've never tried it as I can't afford it but I believe it gives good lasting results in your type of enviroment? Its a two part finish so you need both D1 and D2, I think you'll find it in some ships chandlers around Cork and perhaps they can advise if it is suitable.

Hi again and thanks so much for taking the time to offer all of the above. Having considered your advice, I bit the bullet and purchased a bundle of Owatrol products from the Igoe web site this morning. Contrary to what I expected, the whole lot came in under €150. I purchased Seasonite for the new cedar cladding, Netrol and Textrol to clean and treat the older stuff and Deks Olje for the teak doors and windows. The stuff should arrive in the next couple of days. I'll let you know how I get on...thanks again, you've been a great help.

JB

ttm

I'm not convinced on the Seasonite, I have used it but only on non durable timber and after waiting the recommended time before applying Textrol the timber had badly discoloured, so for new treated (CCA) pine shiplap (which I use a lot of) I just nail it up leave it a couple of weeks in the sun so its dry and fire on the Textrol. It really does seal it as once treated shrinkage and movement is greatly reduced.

I've just tried Textrol on some very dry weathered teak and I was supprised how much soaked so you might need more than you think, if your not sure do about half in one go so your sure you have enough to get the second coat on as it really is quite important to get the first coats well soaked in unless you want to be putting two coats on the following year.

I'd love to hear how you get on especially with the Deks Olje.

justwood

I install lots of Cedar Cladding. The best product I've used is an Oil manufactured by a German company called OSMO. It is Clear in colour but also contains UV filters and was developed for use as an exterior cedar wood finish, it works really well and prevents the greying x12times. I buy it from MTS Ltd - The Wood Component Company www.woodcomponents.ie , .

firesidechat

I have installed lots of cedar cladding in the states.
We always sealed the inside of the board before installing it.
When you seal the finished board the seal or stain will absorb evenly and wont leave need as much maintainence. It's extra work but well worth
the effort.

ttm

firesidechat wrote: »

I have installed lots of cedar cladding in the states.
We always sealed the inside of the board before installing it.
When you seal the finished board the seal or stain will absorb evenly and wont leave need as much maintainence. It's extra work but well worth
the effort.

Sort of thing I would do (belt and braces ), but was talking to a mate who has rebuilt several properties in California and he gets his cedar cladding straight from the mill and the advice they give is not to put anything on it, on the other hand its a bit drier over there :cool:

jwb1

ttm wrote: »

I'm not convinced on the Seasonite, I have used it but only on non durable timber and after waiting the recommended time before applying Textrol the timber had badly discoloured, so for new treated (CCA) pine shiplap (which I use a lot of) I just nail it up leave it a couple of weeks in the sun so its dry and fire on the Textrol. It really does seal it as once treated shrinkage and movement is greatly reduced.

I've just tried Textrol on some very dry weathered teak and I was supprised how much soaked so you might need more than you think, if your not sure do about half in one go so your sure you have enough to get the second coat on as it really is quite important to get the first coats well soaked in unless you want to be putting two coats on the following year.

I'd love to hear how you get on especially with the Deks Olje.

Well...I finally (!) got around to putting on the Deks. It's fantastic - never seen anything quite like it. Hard to describe in words but the wood is very durable and warm-looking (it's teak by the way). I'm glad I splashed out. I have loads more to do but first impressions are very positive. Thanks for offering the advice. Oh...one last thing...the company in Dublin (IGOE) are very good to deal with. All the best....JB