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Mercedes 280SL Pagoda

  • 31-07-2009 7:33am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 536 ✭✭✭


    Friend of mine is after one of these.

    Had a quick browse on the web and saw a few (not cheap).

    Any suggestions on where to start? Thanks.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,326 ✭✭✭Bearcat


    start wth deep pockets......very few good ones in ireland. I sold mine back to uk. 15k stg you'll pick up a ok one....26k stg your into mint stuff. 10k into junkers.....dont buy lhd.....sale proof here.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 827 ✭✭✭PaulK_CCI


    Bearcat wrote: »
    .....dont buy lhd.....
    Why is that ??? :)

    I sell mostly LHD SL's to Irish customers, and I find them generally to be in a much better structural condition than cars that spent all of their lives on the salty UK roads and the wet English climates...

    Also, because the cars are left hand drive, when it's time to sell the car on, at least you're not stuck with the limited Irish and UK markets, but the car can be pitched on the Global market!!!

    Over the last two years I bought back a good few Left hookers to sell them on in the Netherlands and rest of Europe...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,326 ✭✭✭Bearcat


    Paul, I accept everything you say, but I have found left hookers again to drive be a pain.....just me. Likewise the SL's with the circular lights I hate....much prefer the euro version. Also I dont accept mercs from the usa are rust free....some of them are pure rotton.

    What I said about my pricing is correct. If you want a good one you'll pay for it. There are two schools here either a minded unrestored one or a restored one. I went with the restored one which meant all work was done re sills etc.

    Likewise I say to folk avoid the 250's....not a great engine whereas the 280 was bullet proof......hoods can give probs and can be a bitch if the frame becomes warped which most of them are....remember these cars are 60's/ 70's relics and naturally the hood frames can get slightly out of line. What happens then is the bow on the hood rubs again the the car frame and can look tatty.

    Finally you'll pay a premium for the w113's...also try and get one with the correct matching no's. There are a few out there with 280 engine's in 230 bodys.....dont go there. Also you can get the vin card of the orig car sent to you if you apply to the classic merc dept in germany. Also a lot of 280SL's have had replacement saloon engines fitted as they are cheaper and not as difficult to source. Mervyn in Jacksons of Bournmouth is a great supplier of parts.


    .I sold mine to GraemeHunt and bought a porsche 930. I knew ever nut and bolt IN my 280SL....on the engine front I put electronic ignition in it and it made a massive difference.....

    Finally to man looking for an SL....PM Paul....he knows his onions here and is well respected in the game.

    D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 827 ✭✭✭PaulK_CCI


    cheers for that D...
    Bearcat wrote: »
    Paul, I accept everything you say, but I have found left hookers again to drive be a pain.....just me.
    I would say you're not the only one, but luckily for me, approx 80% of prospective customers do not mind a LHD if it gets them a better car for the money
    Bearcat wrote: »
    Likewise the SL's with the circular lights I hate....much prefer the euro version.
    Totally aggree, but replacing them with a set of Euro headlights can be done in about half and hour...
    Bearcat wrote: »
    Also I dont accept mercs from the usa are rust free....some of them are pure rotton.
    As with ALL classics, regardless of where a car is from, you always need to check them out carefully, there is no such thing as a 100% rustfree classic, but the car should be as described and the major structural elements should be clean, maintained and free of corrossion. You tend to find boot floors to be bad because of the rubber mat, US cars suffer from bad areas around the pedal box/passenger footwell, because of the crudely after market installed aircons. and there are a few other nasty spots...
    Bearcat wrote: »
    Finally you'll pay a premium for the w113's...also try and get one with the correct matching no's. There are a few out there with 280 engine's in 230 bodys.....dont go there.
    At least these are very easy to spot: as the different engines were fitted through the consecutive years: so a 66 should have 230 engine, a 67 a 250, and from 68 onwards a 280 is fitted.

    Bearcat wrote: »
    Also a lot of 280SL's have had replacement saloon engines fitted as they are cheaper and not as difficult to source.
    That's a very good point, and it's something that a lot of owners have been caught out by, in that they order stuff to overhaul the engine, only to find out there are distinct differences between the 2,8 lumps :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,266 ✭✭✭MercMad


    I dont think a left hooker is worth less, there's a bigger market for these abroad if you wish to resell.

    I also dont agree about avoiding a 250 and only going for a 280. You should only buy on body condition, they are all similar to drive. You must see receipts for all work done. If you decide you want an auto then a 280 is superior, with the 250 not far behind. The 230 lack torque but the cam profile is higher so it feels more sporty, so if you want a manual a 230 is a good choice.

    Wehther the car is matching numbers or not does not affect values by more than a few hundred and a saloon engine is exactly the same only the cam and rev counter pick up is different, both easily sorted.

    Dont buy a basket case or a rough car unless you personally posses a large amount of welding skills and have the space and equipment.

    To be honest the old adage "buy the best you can afford" is really a phrase that was invented for these cars.

    If I were doing it again I would but one that had a very good restored body, the rest can be sorted quite easily. Also anything that is shiny is expensive, chrome etc.. but most parts are available.


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