Chain life

Signal_ rabbit

I only got 1,800 miles from my Sram chain before I had to replace it. Is this normal? I regularly clean my chain and re-lube so I doubt it had worn quick due to neglect.

victorcarrera

Why do you or whoever changed it think it was worn. Did it fail the length test or break? How many speeds?

Signal_ rabbit

First I checked it using a 12inch ruler and then bought a chain stretch tester. It failed on both counts. When I changed the chains the old one had stretched by approx. 15mm throughout its overall length. Its eight speed.

FrankGrimes

Do you often cycle with the chain in the big ring at the front and the biggest cog at the back? I was told in a bike shop that that can stretch the chain but wasn't sure how much to read into it. Not sure if small cog on back and small cog on front would also have a similar effect.

blorg

3,000km sounds like a reasonable chain life to me.

Chips Lovell

blorg wrote: »

3,000km sounds like a reasonable chain life to me.

I agree. I've seen some chains wear out quicker than that even.

ROK ON

I have a chain (Shimano Ultegra) since Nov. Just under 5500 done, and the chain is only just faily the test at 0.75%. Not failing at 1% yet. I am going to change it anyway, but figure that is a pretty good distance to get out of a chain.

victorcarrera

FrankGrimes wrote: »

Do you often cycle with the chain in the big ring at the front and the biggest cog at the back? I was told in a bike shop that that can stretch the chain but wasn't sure how much to read into it. Not sure if small cog on back and small cog on front would also have a similar effect.

Good advice there. Nearly all chain failures occur due to shear wear at the point between the side plate and the link pin. This type of wear is accelerated by cross chaining or incorrect drive train alignment.

To the OP.
Your bike is an eight speed and unlikely to be used in competition. So consider mudguards and chain guards to extend chain life.
Frame mounted chain guards that protect the front of the chain rings are best as its the spray from the front wheel that does the damage.
Attached are photos of my 3x7 speed with 10,000Km on this very basic Suntour/ Shimano tourney drive train. No noticeable tooth wear on sprockets or chain rings either.

Jawgap

While we're on the subject of chains can I bring up the subject of lubing?

I clean, de-grease and re-lube my chain every week - using a wet weather lube, but last night I was "horrified" (actually just a bit miffed!) to see rust on my chain. When I re-lube the chain I usually aim to get pleny on all surfaces of the chain then wipe away any blobs or drips.

I've had two good soakings in the last 72 hours - am I lubing properly, or do I need to use a "heavier" lube (if there's one available) or just do a bit of re-lubing during the week or after soakings like the two I've just had?

Chips Lovell

Wipe down your chain after a wet spin.

Jawgap

el tonto wrote: »

Wipe down your chain after a wet spin.

Will that not just wipe the lube off as well? Or is it a case of wipe down and re-lube?

Chips Lovell

Not really. You should wipe the chain after lubing it anyway. You really only need lube in between the parts of the chain, not on its surface. Leaving the chain wet can result in rust spots.

rottenhat

Jawgap wrote: »

Will that not just wipe the lube off as well? Or is it a case of wipe down and re-lube?

Lube really only belongs on the rollers of the chain so wiping down mostly takes it off the places where you don't want it. But after a serious drenching, I'd always relube.