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wicklow vs kildare last weekend cc welcome

  • 30-07-2009 9:07am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 604 ✭✭✭


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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,324 ✭✭✭keps


    Photos are very sharp - and close to the action - obviously a good camera & telephoto lens at work.

    They are however a bit dark and flat- are these scanned from prints - or are these digital shots?

    One way or another -there is a good level of under exposure - which you need to look at- there may be some issue with the controls on the camera.

    See this shot from sportsfile and the level of contrast/colour

    2wn2ydg.jpg

    and here is your shot of micko - given about a 1 stop boost on curves

    2j2jchy.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 604 ✭✭✭hoganpoly


    keps wrote: »
    Photos are very sharp - and close to the action - obviously a good camera & telephoto lens at work.

    They are however a bit dark and flat- are these scanned from prints - or are these digital shots?

    One way or another -there is a good level of under exposure - which you need to look at- there may be some issue with the controls on the camera.

    See this shot from sportsfile and the level of contrast/colour

    2wn2ydg.jpg

    and here is your shot of micko - given about a 1 stop boost on curves

    2j2jchy.jpg
    yeah using a canon 40d with sigma 70-200 2.8 set on tv mode,continous shooting with iso @1250, just starting out at this so any help much appreciated,also i was in the stand and no tripod


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,324 ✭✭✭keps


    First thing to do is buy a good monopod - they are worth their weight in gold if you are going to get into sports photography.


    Also with a 2.8 lens you should really be working at 400 iso max(for outdoors daytime in summer= unless it is very overcast) - to get better quality and more flexibility.

    I do not know what TV mode is - but to me it does not sound right for this type of job.

    regards

    keps


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 604 ✭✭✭hoganpoly


    keps wrote: »
    First thing to do is buy a good monopod - they are worth their weight in gold if you are going to get into sports photography.


    Also with a 2.8 lens you should really be working at 400 iso max(for outdoors daytime in summer= unless it is very overcast) - to get better quality and more flexibility.

    I do not know what TV mode is - but to me it does not sound right for this type of job.

    regards

    keps
    yeah have just bought a monopod ,point taken bout iso will learn from that,tv mode on canon gives shutter priority,tried using av mode the other day with poor results camera set to f22 on continous shooting but most images came out blurred ,think i have a lot to learn


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,324 ✭✭✭keps


    Is there a manual control on that camera.
    Using this is a great way to learn more.

    Manual may sound 'old fashioned' but on a modern camera all it does is give you total contol of both aperature width and shutter speed- while still giing you a full read on exposure levels.

    We have a long weekend ahead. Trial and error is a great way to learn - especiallly with digital as it costs nothing extra.

    Get your camera into manual -and read the manual on how to use it correctly.

    You won't look back.

    keps


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,822 ✭✭✭Ballyman


    Hi Hoganpoly

    f22 is way too small an aperture for sports photography. You really need it down at f2.8 or f4 so you can get very high shutter speeds and blurred backgrounds. The lens you have is ideal for this. All the horse racing stuff on my flickr below used the Sigma 70-200mm.

    For a fast moving field sport you need minimum 1/500 shutter speed to be able to get sharp images and higher if you can. If you set your aperture to f2.8 in Av and then take a shot of the grass about 10-20 feet in front of you and see what your shutter speed is.
    If it's lower than 1/500 then you will need to increase your ISO to get the shutter speed up to useable levels. The reason for taking a shot of the grass is because it is a midtone and is as good as a grey card for getting your exposure correct.

    I'd also use Spot Metering so that you expose correctly for the players and not the background as on a summers evening with low sun you can over/under expose very easily if you used Pattern/Matrix Metering. And the all white Kildare jersey is helping nobody either!!

    The best piece of advice I could give you would be, on an overcast/cloudy day or under floodlights where the light isn't changing, then manually spot meter off the grass and set up your camera this way. You should be able to expose the players correctly then with the camera in Manual mode using the readings you got from the grass. Always keep checking your display to check the exposure though. This setup helps your camera also as it has less computing to do so it can speed up focusing for you!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 604 ✭✭✭hoganpoly


    thanks ballyman have taken note of your suggestions and will put it to practice tuesday as my local team are in action,will post improved results here hopefully


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 156 ✭✭kgpixels


    Good shots, sharp and captured the action. But they do look really underexposed.


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