Upgrading parts

Carb

Hi all,

I'm hopefully going to be in the market for a new road bike shortly, and I'm looking for some education on upgrades before some bike shop decides to part me from more cash than is necessary. I've a rough idea of the different levels from reading here, ie 105 - Ultegra - Dura Ace etc.

Taking the example of the only bike I've actually put my hands on, a Specialized Tarmac 2009 Comp Bike, this runs on 105 components. Apart from the wheels which some reviews mention have scope for upgrading, is there a real cost benefit (sorry, I'm an accountant) to upgrading other components. I suppose what I'm getting at, how do these parts differ, and how much should you expect to pay to change them when buying a new bike.

blorg

You will generally get the best value out of a new set of wheels, probably something lighter. I wouldn't particularly bother looking at upgrading the 105 groupset which is perfectly good... Not until you have done the wheels anyway. What are your goals with the bike? If racing you would probably spend your money better on a coach or something like that. If leisure/fun/etc then nice light wheels.

Generally, if looking at buying a new bike, just buy the bike with the components you want, it will be cheaper than upgrading later. E.g. if you "want" Ultegra, get the version that comes with Ultegra. The wheels are a bit different as almost all manufacturers at every level try to skimp there, so you will find entry level wheels even on €2,000-2,500 bikes. So it can generally make sense to buy a bike without the wheels you want and upgrade them. If the bike came with a half-solid set of entry level wheels (like Mavic Aksiums or Fulcrum Racing 5s) then you can keep them and use them for training wheels... haha who am I kidding may as well sell them as when you have your nice new wheels you will never ride the old ones again.

Home:Ballyhoura

blorg wrote: »

when you have your nice new wheels you will never ride the old ones again.

True, unless you get a set of tubular race wheels in which case you will use your training wheels for fear of a €50 puncture! Haha

(2010 Specialized bikes are already appearing, looks like they specced down each model a notch judging by my brief glance at the spec lists compared to what I vaguely remember from last years 2009 models which I was considering when upgrading my bike! Good luck anyway )

Carb

Thanks for the replies guys.

blorg wrote: »

You will generally get the best value out of a new set of wheels, probably something lighter. I wouldn't particularly bother looking at upgrading the 105 groupset which is perfectly good... Not until you have done the wheels anyway. What are your goals with the bike? If racing you would probably spend your money better on a coach or something like that. If leisure/fun/etc then nice light wheels.

Generally, if looking at buying a new bike, just buy the bike with the components you want, it will be cheaper than upgrading later. E.g. if you "want" Ultegra, get the version that comes with Ultegra. The wheels are a bit different as almost all manufacturers at every level try to skimp there, so you will find entry level wheels even on €2,000-2,500 bikes. So it can generally make sense to buy a bike without the wheels you want and upgrade them. If the bike came with a half-solid set of entry level wheels (like Mavic Aksiums or Fulcrum Racing 5s) then you can keep them and use them for training wheels... haha who am I kidding may as well sell them as when you have your nice new wheels you will never ride the old ones again.

In terms of what I want the bike for, like a lot of newbies on this forum, I'm hoping to use the bike for triathlons next year, and the ultimate goal is to do an ironman distance event in 2011, which is why I'm considering spending so much now on a first bike rather than need to upgrade completely in a short space of time.

I haven't sat on a bike in years and I've never had a proper road bike. The reason that I'm focusing more on the running componets, is that my intention is to buy a more specific set of lightweight wheels for use in competitions next year. I'm figuring, given my limited experience of cycling, the stock wheels are not going to hold me back for some time to come, especially in training.

Also, does anyone have any opinion on the particular bike mentioned above. It was priced around the €1900 mark (I think) in the shop. Is there better bikes in this price range I should consider.

Lumen

Carb wrote: »

Also, does anyone have any opinion on the particular bike mentioned above. It was priced around the €1900 mark (I think) in the shop. Is there better bikes in this price range I should consider.

ISTR that £1500 is the "sweet spot" for nice road bikes, since that's what most enthusiasts spend on a bike in the UK (according to one of the mags), so there's loads of choice from established brands.

A decent list here/here.

For €1900, I'd really want more than 105, although most of that list are using 105.

Carb

Lumen wrote: »

ISTR that £1500 is the "sweet spot" for nice road bikes, since that's what most enthusiasts spend on a bike in the UK (according to one of the mags), so there's loads of choice from established brands.

A decent list here/here.

For €1900, I'd really want more than 105, although most of that list are using 105.

Thanks for that. Love the Ribble.

Regarding 105, I notice this is what the winner had. I would share your sentiments though on what you get for the money, especially considering there seems to be a weakness on the stock wheels also.

The other thing that is getting to me is that when I was in a bike shop last year getting a bike for my son, I remember lifting a road bike that was on display and I commented on how light it was. The owner mentioned that is cost €1500. Now I know there are many vaiables, but when I lifted the specialised the other day it came across as quite heavy. Perhaps this is where the wheels are playing their part.

I'll probably go to a couple of shops, tell them my needs and see what they spec and quote. I've a figure in my head that I want to be on the road for, so I'll see what options are put forward.

scottreynolds

Carb wrote: »

Also, does anyone have any opinion on the particular bike mentioned above. It was priced around the €1900 mark (I think) in the shop. Is there better bikes in this price range I should consider.

For that price I'd expect Ultegra and carbon with decent wheels. My Scott 2008 had all that for that price (its still available) but TBH most brands will have something in that price range. Spec are good bikes I would hesitate in getting one. Contrary to the belief there's no difference functionly between a bike at 1500 to 2500. You won't notice a difference really unless your racing.

Wheels are wheels. You can upgrade them if you want but at 1900 you'll get a decent set of wheels often.... I got Kysriums Elites which are good little wheels.

rebel.ranter

Hi,
when I was purchasing my bike recently the shop was selling a Trek Madone SL 5.9 on behalf of a customer. It was a ful carbon bike with full Ultegra groupset, pedals, etc. (Dura Ace hollowtech crank too) He was saying the owner was looking for €1,800 for it.
The bike looked in good condition & probably cost ~€4,000 when new.

Would the OP be better off buying a 2nd hand bike like this?

(If anyone wants the details of where it is let me know via PM, I don't know the owner of the bike, I just know the shop that it is in.)

Carb

I was actually back in Cycleways today. The guy I was dealing with put forward the option of a second hand Cannondale that had one season from one of their sponsored athletes. Unfortunately, I'm a 52 frame on a specialised, and a 50 frame for Cannondale (I'm such a shortarse), so this option was just a little too big.

In relation to the point made by rebel.ranter, I'm certainly not ruling a secondhand bike, but given I fall below the average 54 - 58 cm frame size, I imagine my options are limited.

In relation to new bikes, Cycleways have two options on the cards, the 2010 version of the Specialized mentioned above and a 2010 Cannondale Six. Neither are available to mid September and both cost just north of 2k. Probably a little more than I envisaged paying, especially for 105 components. The specialized doesn't even have branded brakes.

Anyone any experience of the Cannondale Six.

Lumen

rebel.ranter wrote: »

When I was purchasing my bike recently the shop was selling a Trek Madone SL 5.9 on behalf of a customer....Would the OP be better off buying a 2nd hand bike like this?

AIUI the problem with used high-end bikes is that the frame warranties are usually non-transferrable from the original owner.

So like used high-end cars, whilst they look good value you need to be prepared for a big bill if something goes wrong.

edit: CSS sell bikes on behalf of customers, but they rarely look great value.

blorg

If you are looking at very small frames, I would hold out if you can and see what the likes of Wiggle have available at the end of the summer, they often have the smallest size of some very nice bikes reduced very low indeed. Generally you are ideally placed for a bargain looking at those sort of frame sizes.

Murph100

Hang on a month or two until the 2010 bikes hit the market, most retailers instantly drop the 'old' models.

Also if you're buying a complete bike and its got low spec wheels as part of the package, most retailers will let you upgrade the wheelset to something you actually want and just charge you the difference. Much better than trying to flog them for 1/2 price later on ... that is if you can actually find anybody who want them.

BTW THIS is really good value, if it fits ...

http://www.slanecycles.com/productdetail.aspx?id=2379&subid=274&catid=66

scottreynolds

This is a good bike with good components....

http://www.slanecycles.com/productdetail.aspx?id=3208&subid=273&catid=66

Tihs looks good as well... and is cheaper full 105....

http://www.slanecycles.com/productdetail.aspx?id=3207&subid=273&catid=66

I'm biased cause my name is on the bikes.

Carb

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Quite like that second Scott Bike. I'm just wary of getting my first bike off the web, especially with trying to get the fit right.

Turbulent Bill

Carb wrote: »

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Quite like that second Scott Bike. I'm just wary of getting my first bike off the web, especially with trying to get the fit right.

Slane Cycles are in Belfast, so if you're in Monaghan it mightn't be much of a trip up (I assume they also have a shop, not soely online).

Carb

Turbulent Bill wrote: »

Slane Cycles are in Belfast, so if you're in Monaghan it mightn't be much of a trip up (I assume they also have a shop, not soely online).

Learn something new evveryday. Thanks.

Carb

scottreynolds wrote: »

This is a good bike with good components....

http://www.slanecycles.com/productdetail.aspx?id=3208&subid=273&catid=66

Tihs looks good as well... and is cheaper full 105....

http://www.slanecycles.com/productdetail.aspx?id=3207&subid=273&catid=66

I'm biased cause my name is on the bikes.

Have you any opinion on the Addict R4 Bike 2009 on that site. The price is on the mark, the components are what I'm looking for and the reviews seem good. I am a bit confused as to why the 2008 version is more expensive (although lighter).

The only issue is that the smallest frame left seems to be 52 and given the quesiton marks over which suits me best, it may be too big. In Cycleways, they said because of the Cannondale's more traditional design (flat horizontal tube), the saddle was too low and was described as pretty much having "too much bike under me". This why it was a 50 rather than a 52 as for the Specialised. Do you know how the geometry on these bikes compare. It's something I can't quite get my head around yet.

Lumen

Carb wrote: »

The only issue is that the smallest frame left seems to be 52 and given the quesiton marks over which suits me best, it may be too big.

Size the bike by the "horizontal top tube equivalent". This chart is handy to find the range of sizes which will fit.

In general....

Larger bike: higher front end, slower handling, more comfortable*.
Smaller bike: lower front end, faster handling, less comfortable*.

* assuming correct stem length.

Carb

Lumen wrote: »

Size the bike by the "horizontal top tube equivalent". This chart is handy to find the range of sizes which will fit.

In general....

Larger bike: higher front end, slower handling, more comfortable*.
Smaller bike: lower front end, faster handling, less comfortable*.

* assuming correct stem length.

You'll be starting to regret coming near this thread.

Do you have any opinion on Ribble bikes. £1500 would seem to get you a lot of bike on their website,

Lumen

Carb wrote: »

Do you have any opinion on Ribble bikes. £1500 would seem to get you a lot of bike on their website,

Ribble offer good value and have a good reputation. I almost bought one last year, but was put off by the fact that they didn't really want to sell me an aluminium bike, despite it meeting my requirements.

The only problem I've heard is that they charge a lot for shipping to Ireland and have had stock issues with the carbon bikes.