G36C Upgrades - Most effective?

CapedCrusader

If people were to list the most effective upgrades for my JG G36C, what would people recommend, in decreasing order of effectiveness?

Puding

hop-up bucking guarder silicon or madbul blue
6.03 tight bore, madbul for value for money

Firekitten

Theres no such thing as a list of upgrades in order of effectiveness, any list would be a pita to make...

best way to upgrade an aeg is in one go in sections...

Firstly, your barrel...

A new tightbore, say, a prometheus 6.03 inner, and a guarder hop unit, guarder soft hop rubber, h bucking, will give you improved accuracy and range. Then you can see where your gearbox lets that down...

and begin to work from there with wiring changes first to high quality. then if that fails, go for the insides. Its all logical, and eaiest if you work up things... it cant get worse...

Big_G

I have the TM version of this.
I have new piston, piston head, cylinder head, systema tightbore, prometheus element cord wiring upgrade, active breaking mosfet, new oiless bearings and new prometheus spring. Also lipo battery.

Frank the Manc

Puding wrote: »

hop-up bucking guarder silicon or madbul blue
6.03 tight bore, madbul for value for money

I thought the blue ones (65) were harder and used for higher FPS set ups i.e. 350-400, with red ones (55) being somewhat more suitable to our fps limits.

Firekitten wrote: »

Theres no such thing as a list of upgrades in order of effectiveness, any list would be a pita to make...

best way to upgrade an aeg is in one go in sections...

Firstly, your barrel...

A new tightbore, say, a prometheus 6.03 inner, and a guarder hop unit, guarder soft hop rubber, h bucking, will give you improved accuracy and range. Then you can see where your gearbox lets that down...

and begin to work from there with wiring changes first to high quality. then if that fails, go for the insides. Its all logical, and eaiest if you work up things... it cant get worse...

The H-Nubs arent that effective when used in conjunction with a guarder clear bucking, they are better suited to Madfbull Sharksfin, Firefly or Element red or blue buckings as they all have the split bump, so both sides of the H are able to press both sides of the bucking bump so they protrude seperately and have two distinct points of contact on the BB.


Once the barrel is straight and propperly crowned, a good Hop unit and set up is more crucial to accuracy than any other part you can thrown into the gun.
Systema or Prommy TB barrels seem to be the better choice when it comes to tight bores.

Id also replace the nylon bushing with steel bearings, and replace the spring guide with a bearing one. This will give you about 15 extra fps so youll have to replace the spring with an M80 or M85. the benefit of this is a lighter spring, which gives the same or more fps, gives a slightly higher ROF and reduces the strain that a gearbox undergoes.

After that youre talking about pistons, piston heads, tappet plates, selector switches, re-wiring, MOSFETs etc. but your better off getting the gun accurate and reliable first, and only replace things as they break or wear out.

Bear in mind that when you upgrade certain parts that other parts will require upgrading as a consequense, and also that some upgrades no matter how expensive or highly rated will not always run well in some guns nor work well together, and that is regardlessof them being from the same manufacturer.

Also metal hop up units may seem good and they make sense on soem guns such as AKs where putting the mag in too tightly or at the wrong angle may break the unit, but iv found tha usuall plastic hop units give better air seal.

the most universal upgrade:
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/upgrade-part/parts-upgrade-aeg/hop-up-enhancements/guarder-improved-hop-up-bucking-for-aeg-50-hardness.html

this :
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/upgrade-part/parts-upgrade-aeg/hop-up-enhancements/element-hop-up-cushion-for-aeg-gearbox.html

and this will work togeher:
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/upgrade-part/parts-upgrade-aeg/hop-up-enhancements/element-silicon-hop-up-packing-55-hard.html

then say this:
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/upgrade-part/parts-upgrade-aeg/bearings-bushing-shims/element-7mm-steel-ball-bearing-bushing.html


and this :
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/upgrade-part/parts-upgrade-aeg/spring-guides/element-spring-guide-with-ball-bearing-for-ver-3-gearbox.html

Ive linked Element as they represent very good value for money and it it dosnt suit the gun you havent dropped a bomb on a part. Ive used a lot of their parts and never encountered a problem so far.

Firekitten

actually i find that causes a reduction of effect. The bump doesnt quite work like that...

i find the h is more effective with a plain rubber as there is interferance with a split bump style hop... the two work agaisnt eachother.

Frank the Manc

Firekitten wrote: »

actually i find that causes a reduction of effect. The bump doesnt quite work like that...

i find the h is more effective with a plain rubber as there is interferance with a split bump style hop... the two work agaisnt eachother.

really....ive found it to be quite the opposite on a number of different types of guns and set ups, the problems were usually remmedied when either removing the H nub or replacing the bucking with a split version.

the buckings certainly arent as aggressive as a guarder clear but i wouldnt call that a reduction of effect.

Firekitten

personally, split and non split aside, the guarder clear soft ones have been some of the best hop rubbers ive ever used... they always seem most consistent.

CapedCrusader

I guess there are no simple answers in airsoft :-)Thanks for the replies folks.I'll start with an upgraded barrell and see where we go from there!

Stercus Accidit

Puding wrote: »

hop-up bucking guarder silicon or madbul blue
6.03 tight bore, madbul for value for money

I have two aegs running promy 6.03's and madbull blues.


When I first ran a madbull blue at gtac2 many moons ago, people were a bit shocked at the range I was getting.

The latest aeg I use that set up in was my ak74, and the consistency is amazing, range is perfect, accuracy etc. One benefit of the madbulls is that even with hop turned all the way off, the bucking part of them is big enough to impart a small hop effect anyway, so when you turn it up to full hop, you are losing less fps from hop all off.

Not a big deal but as a tuner I like that sort of thing.

Guarders are meant to be great, Masada advocates them so thats good enough for me.

Puding

I thought the blue ones (65) were harder and used for higher FPS set ups i.e. 350-400, with red ones (55) being somewhat more suitable to our fps limits.

you can find theory craft (yes airsoft is very much like wow with rems and rems of theory craft on forums) to support most idea in airsoft different people have different pov interpretations and conclusions, i can only talk about what works for me, i skirmish and i recommend bit that work for me when doing that

there is no 'i win' set of components in airsoft

Stercus Accidit

Puding wrote: »

you can find theory craft (yes airsoft is very much like wow with rems and rems of theory craft on forums) to support most idea in airsoft different people have different pov interpretations and conclusions, i can only talk about what works for me, i skirmish and i recommend bit that work for me when doing that

there is no 'i win' set of components in airsoft

Lol, there are certainly instant 'fail' setups though depending on your views

Puding

Lol, there are certainly instant 'fail' setups though depending on your views

yes that is very true and i have to admit i have seen a far view in my time, normal happens when people want to upgrade and read one forum go out and buy a bucket load of expensive parts that 'someones friend brother who knows everything about airsoft swore was the best thing since sliced bread' and just throw then all

Stercus Accidit

Its worth mentioning actually that the JG g36c has a very good hop up and barrel from stock, my friend has one and I tried it out, was as good as an upgrade job from stock, accuracy, hop consistency, I was impressed, no wonder they are recommended.

Also, a clean barrel and hop, with good bb's of say .25g weight will offer a great improvement over say a fancy set up that has been allowed get dirty and using crap bb's in a low weight.

horgan_p

Stercus Accidit wrote: »

Also, a clean barrel and hop, with good bb's of say .25g weight will offer a great improvement over say a fancy set up that has been allowed get dirty and using crap bb's in a low weight.

+1 on that , i've gained fps ( not many) just from cleaning the barrel.

CapedCrusader

Well my gun chronoed 0.98J at one venue and 1.02J at the next. So fps certainly isn't a problem.I'm looking for improvements in accuracy, range and rate of fire. With that in mind, sounds like barrel, hop up, wiring and gearbox are what's required.It also appears that if I make improvements, it will take the gun over 1J. How do I then reduce it?

Captain Chaos

When you've done all that the best way to drop in back down is to fit a weaker spring and a good side effect of that is it will reduce the stress on other parts.

For rate of fire improvement you'll need at least a 9.6 battery, to fit one of them you'll need the over sized G36C handguard which I think looks a bit naff. The other option is to fit the HK G36 sniper stock, very easy to do and you can fit large capacity batteries into them. It handy enough to rewire' a 36 to the stock.

Stercus Accidit

CapedCrusader wrote: »

Well my gun chronoed 0.98J at one venue and 1.02J at the next. So fps certainly isn't a problem.I'm looking for improvements in accuracy, range and rate of fire. With that in mind, sounds like barrel, hop up, wiring and gearbox are what's required.It also appears that if I make improvements, it will take the gun over 1J. How do I then reduce it?

If it was 1.02 at one venue its too high, and a tight bore will certainly be a bad idea.

I advise you get it chronoed again with hop off, and if needs be, a downgrade.

No reputable site will let you play with a gun which is over the limit, and it is illegal.


To downgrade it youself, you can lop off a bit of the spring with a snips, I'd recommend just under a centimetre from the end, should drop off 20-30 fps.

Firekitten

yep, to change hop or barrel you need to downgrade.. deffinately, sometimes a good air seal in the hop and good tight barrel give upto 20fps jump.

Black Bullet

Stercus Accidit wrote: »

If it was 1.02 at one venue its too high, and a tight bore will certainly be a bad idea.

I advise you get it chronoed again with hop off, and if needs be, a downgrade.

No reputable site will let you play with a gun which is over the limit, and it is illegal.


To downgrade it youself, you can lop off a bit of the spring with a snips, I'd recommend just under a centimetre from the end, should drop off 20-30 fps.

Captain Chaos wrote: »

When you've done all that the best way to drop in back down is to fit a weaker spring and a good side effect of that is it will reduce the stress on other parts.

For rate of fire improvement you'll need at least a 9.6 battery, to fit one of them you'll need the over sized G36C handguard which I think looks a bit naff. The other option is to fit the HK G36 sniper stock, very easy to do and you can fit large capacity batteries into them. It handy enough to rewire' a 36 to the stock.

I have a KWA G36c and a 9.6v battery fits not a bother. I dont have an oversized handguard but i heard the KWA model has a slightly bigger handgaurd than the others but it doesn't look anyway naff. Mine is stock but it also chrono's different from site to site

Tigger

Stercus Accidit wrote: »

Its worth mentioning actually that the JG g36c has a very good hop up and barrel from stock, my friend has one and I tried it out, was as good as an upgrade job from stock, accuracy, hop consistency, I was impressed, no wonder they are recommended.

Also, a clean barrel and hop, with good bb's of say .25g weight will offer a great improvement over say a fancy set up that has been allowed get dirty and using crap bb's in a low weight.

this /\

jg36c needs to be cleaned and given a 9.6
that is all

points of note

it comes with a tightbore
9.6v mini fits the jg
good jgs make 350 stock so it may need a 80ms spring which will add to its rof and put the fps in the 310-320 sweet spot

Big_G

Captain Chaos wrote: »

When you've done all that the best way to drop in back down is to fit a weaker spring and a good side effect of that is it will reduce the stress on other parts.

For rate of fire improvement you'll need at least a 9.6 battery, to fit one of them you'll need the over sized G36C handguard which I think looks a bit naff. The other option is to fit the HK G36 sniper stock, very easy to do and you can fit large capacity batteries into them. It handy enough to rewire' a 36 to the stock.

7.4v lipo will do it aswell. That's what I'm using. I did have to get the large handguard. But I'm positive there are lipos out there that will fit the small handguard and significantly increase ROF. Also mosfet.

colmdoyle

my g36 was up graded with a gauder buking and 7.4 lipo battery i tried up grading the spring but found out mech boxs are a disaster when you know nothing about them so gave it too a expert too fix my mistake my next thing too get will be a tight bore barrel i also bought a spare g36 too

Chelios

I have a quick question on the JG G36C if someone can please answer it for me. Within the trigger there is a button in front of the trigger. What is the button for?

Stercus Accidit

Something to do with the real one, not sure what though.

Firekitten

The button is the bolt release on the real g36



Btw, all this 9.6 talk... Feel free if confident with your gun. But if you value your warrenty, and its inside a year old. Dont. Most shops consider it void run on anything but 8.4v

gerrowadat

FWIW, the JG G36C in particular is known for being made of iron when it comes to this. Bear in mind FKs caveat above about warranties, but you should have no trouble with a 9.6.

Masada

The JG G36 will take the 9.6 no probs, its a bit tighter to get in than the 8.4 though.

Most clones come with 9.6 these days too, (all the latest dboys gear has them now).
It would be a bit of a sly cop out for a retailer to void your warranty on something like this. Not a great way to earn someones loyalty as a customer.

Firekitten

A lot do it though Richie... its usually a case of using similar to what's supplied..... In some cases, a higher voltage battery can make it chew itself up... hardly a warranty job is it? It's legal ass covering. Doesnt mean it wont work.

The JG g36s and most chinese guns come with 8.4s though... so its a 'ask about it' thing if you want to have your battery and keep the warranty.
The JG WILL take it, But consider your retailer's policy if you feel you want that policy in future.

Why have I gotten so cautious? *shakes head*

Masada

In my opinion, its a warranty job if the person hasn't pushed the boundary's and done something mental, like 11.1v lipo's in there or something.
I know tony has covered such issues in the past, and turning someone away or charging them for the repair after using a 9.6 while still in warranty, in my opinion would be greedy of a retailer and short term profit for a long term loss.

Firekitten

Indeed, but not if the 9.6 were at the cause of the issue,... and it can be with some models.

Phractal

Well... My thoughts on the matter are as follows - BTW this is regarding upgrades in general, not the battery issue. Bear in mind that heart I am a bit of a Physicist and an efficiency whore, so dont get angry at me.

First up, the piston head, piston, spring guide and air nozzle, in fact, the entire cylinder assembly, should be improved. ALso, measure the volume of the cylinder as it would be when the piston is to the rear, about to slam forward and fire.

Obtain a tightbore prometheus barrel of this volume internally. Ensure its crowning is of high quality, and that the barrel is straight. This is due to the Pneumatic Efficiency being Optimum at this point, as any physics student would know. Any less barrel is losing potential and therefore inefficient, any more barrel is useless friction - therefore useless (also, the suckback effect further reduces velocity...)

Now we replace the Hop Up unit entirely with whatever one takes your fancy. I like Guarder Clear. Whatever floats your boat.

Now that the pneumatic efficiency is sorted, we look to electrical. Rewire the entire thing with nice, high flow, thick gauge copper wire of LOW resistance. Aim for soldered, or gold plated, contacts. A MOSFET is an option, as is a variable resistor in line between battery and motor as a 'Variable ROF' unit.

The gearbox then gets dealt with. Again, whatever YOU like in there, goes in there.

Finally, we examine the battery issue. If you reckon the mechanical components can put up with the stress of higher speeds, go for it. But at least ensure the electronics are capable of handeling the battery first. If the electronics can deal with it, and the mechanical components are strong enough, its worth going for IF you want the higher ROF. Some like higher ROF, some dont. Personal choice really.

After that, keep it clean and lubed, check electronics regularly for damage.

DeBurca

Phractal wrote: »

Well... My thoughts on the matter are as follows - BTW this is regarding upgrades in general, not the battery issue. Bear in mind that heart I am a bit of a Physicist and an efficiency whore, so dont get angry at me.

First up, the piston head, piston, spring guide and air nozzle, in fact, the entire cylinder assembly, should be improved. ALso, measure the volume of the cylinder as it would be when the piston is to the rear, about to slam forward and fire.

Obtain a tightbore prometheus barrel of this volume internally. Ensure its crowning is of high quality, and that the barrel is straight. This is due to the Pneumatic Efficiency being Optimum at this point, as any physics student would know. Any less barrel is losing potential and therefore inefficient, any more barrel is useless friction - therefore useless (also, the suckback effect further reduces velocity...)

Now we replace the Hop Up unit entirely with whatever one takes your fancy. I like Guarder Clear. Whatever floats your boat.

Now that the pneumatic efficiency is sorted, we look to electrical. Rewire the entire thing with nice, high flow, thick gauge copper wire of LOW resistance. Aim for soldered, or gold plated, contacts. A MOSFET is an option, as is a variable resistor in line between battery and motor as a 'Variable ROF' unit.

The gearbox then gets dealt with. Again, whatever YOU like in there, goes in there.

Finally, we examine the battery issue. If you reckon the mechanical components can put up with the stress of higher speeds, go for it. But at least ensure the electronics are capable of handeling the battery first. If the electronics can deal with it, and the mechanical components are strong enough, its worth going for IF you want the higher ROF. Some like higher ROF, some dont. Personal choice really.

After that, keep it clean and lubed, check electronics regularly for damage.

It would want to be one awful big variable resistor considering it would be handeling current in the order of 15 amps plus

Firekitten

DeBurca wrote: »

It would want to be one awful big variable resistor considering it would be handeling current in the order of 15 amps plus

Mmmmm 15amps is too thin.... AEGS need 20amp ones generally for an 8.4, and size matters!

Masada

15 amps is the average draw, not the fuse. you use a fuse rated higher than the draw on the gearbox.