Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Help! Indexing problem!

  • 17-07-2009 7:04pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 210 ✭✭


    I've been at this now for a while and have given up and decided to ask the experts (thats you!).

    Right, I've noticed I've had a few issues with my rear derailer lately. There's been a slight delay and hesitation in shifting between cogs, which has me concerned about the teeth, and sometimes it's taking two clicks to get the chain on to another cog.

    I thought it was a simple matter of cable tension so I played around with the barrel adjuster on the derailer itself and had no joy. So I undid the bolt making it completely slack, reset my limit screws and then got a pliers to put the cable back in tension and re-tightened the allen bolt. No joy!

    So, I noticed that my chain isn't sitting flush in my chainring cogs, I'm thinking that maybe my chain has stretched? If thats the issue what do you recommend, taking out a link or replacing the chain?

    I fully admit that I am a novice at this maintenance business so there could be any number of things that I overlooked. Anyone got a clue?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    Eoin D wrote: »
    I've been at this now for a while and have given up and decided to ask the experts (thats you!).

    Right, I've noticed I've had a few issues with my rear derailer lately. There's been a slight delay and hesitation in shifting between cogs, which has me concerned about the teeth, and sometimes it's taking two clicks to get the chain on to another cog.

    I thought it was a simple matter of cable tension so I played around with the barrel adjuster on the derailer itself and had no joy. So I undid the bolt making it completely slack, reset my limit screws and then got a pliers to put the cable back in tension and re-tightened the allen bolt. No joy!

    So, I noticed that my chain isn't sitting flush in my chainring cogs, I'm thinking that maybe my chain has stretched? If thats the issue what do you recommend, taking out a link or replacing the chain?

    I fully admit that I am a novice at this maintenance business so there could be any number of things that I overlooked. Anyone got a clue?

    Check to see if your gear hanger is bent. However my guess would be the chain, bring it to a Bike shop and ask them to measure the stretch on the chain.

    Taking a link out isnt going to work.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 440 ✭✭Single Malt


    Sounds lioke an adjustment issue. Not enough tension. Check here for detailed instruction on how to adjust gears http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp All rear derailleurs follow the same indexing principle, as the indexing is in the lever. If you are confident you followed the instructions to the letter, then you may have a bigger problem. Then it could be cable (very likely), derailleur hanger (quite common as alloy one bend easily), bent/worn derailleur (only if you abuse the bike), or worn cassette and chain (only after a few thousand miles).


  • Administrators, Social & Fun Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 78,393 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Beasty


    kona wrote: »
    Check to see if your gear hanger is bent. However my guess would be the chain, bring it to a Bike shop and ask them to measure the stretch on the chain.

    Taking a link out isnt going to work.
    Chain links are supposed to be exactly 1/2 inch in length. You can get an idea of the extent of stretch by measuring a 20 link (or longer) section. If more than about 10 1/4 inches the chain probably needs changing (and the cassette also)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,525 ✭✭✭kona


    Beasty wrote: »
    Chain links are supposed to be exactly 1/2 inch in length. You can get an idea of the extent of stretch by measuring a 20 link (or longer) section. If more than about 10 1/4 inches the chain probably needs changing (and the cassette also)

    You *can* get away with not changing the cassette, but it up to a mechanic who can see the parts do decide, if its newish and the chain isnt stretched too bad then you will egt away with it. However rule of thumb, change both.

    Id bring it to the bike shop to get it measured and know for sure, seen as you will have to go there anyways for the parts if your doing it yourself..

    No bike shop will charge you to measure wear on the chain.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    You can measure chain wear very easily yourself with a 12" ruler and you do NOT have to change the cassette each time IF you look after and replace your chain when it needs replacement.

    However if don't maintain your bike Kona's "replace the cassette too" is indeed a good rule of thumb as an unmaintained chain will wear into the cassette.

    If you look after your bike you should expect around 3 replaced chains to a cassette minimum.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear


  • Advertisement
Advertisement