Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Wall-Build up

  • 13-07-2009 7:42am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭


    External wall with the following build-up

    Dash
    Scratch coat
    100mm Conc. block
    Cavity
    80mm PIR insulation
    100mm Conc. block
    12.5x38mm insulated slab, dot and dab on internal wall

    Does the internal wall need to be scratched before the insulated slab is fixed to it ?????


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,046 ✭✭✭archtech


    depending on how you propose to achieve and what level of air tightness you want


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,309 ✭✭✭✭Quazzie


    Slates wrote: »
    External wall with the following build-up

    Dash
    Scratch coat
    100mm Conc. block
    Cavity
    80mm PIR insulation
    100mm Conc. block
    12.5x38mm insulated slab, dot and dab on internal wall

    Does the internal wall need to be scratched before the insulated slab is fixed to it ?????
    Why not increase the wall thickness by 20mm and put in 100mm PIR in the cavity while your at it. Its much easier, and cheaper to do it now that try retrofit insulation at a later stage. You have already decided to increase the cavity, so why not go to the maximum, 150mm, while you have the opportunity.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭Slates


    archtech wrote: »
    depending on how you propose to achieve and what level of air tightness you want

    What is the difference in air tightness between scratched and unscratched ??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    Slates wrote: »
    What is the difference in air tightness between scratched and unscratched ??


    at the risk of being wrong here, I think what u mean is the difference between skimming the interior block before u insulate it and not.
    The skim makes the block more airtight as it seals the 'pores'

    All external cement based renders will have a scud coat first, then a scratch coat and the the final coat, be it dash or normal plaster.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭Slates


    Carlow52 wrote: »
    at the risk of being wrong here, I think what u mean is the difference between skimming the interior block before u insulate it and not.
    The skim makes the block more airtight as it seals the 'pores'

    All external cement based renders will have a scud coat first, then a scratch coat and the the final coat, be it dash or normal plaster.


    I want to find out the difference in air tightness between scratching the internal wall before putting up the insulated plasterboard and the skimming, or not scratching the internal walls ??


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭Slates


    archtech wrote: »
    depending on how you propose to achieve and what level of air tightness you want


    So should the wall be scratched out with sand and cement before the insulated slabs are dabbed onto the walls ??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    Slates wrote: »
    I want to find out the difference in air tightness between scratching the internal wall before putting up the insulated plasterboard and the skimming, or not scratching the internal walls ??

    AFAIK the internals are skimmed before the insulation and not scratch coated

    I cant help u with the delta airtightness question

    see http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055620468


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Scratching beforehand should take you from a tendency to acheive Q50 7/6 down to Q50 4/3

    BUT BUT BUT

    You will trap moisture behind the cosy boards . Don't do it .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    sinnerboy wrote: »
    Scratching beforehand should take you from a tendency to acheive Q50 7/6 down to Q50 4/3

    BUT BUT BUT

    You will trap moisture behind the cosy boards . Don't do it .
    Hi SB,
    can you elaborate on this. I would have thought that the 80mm cavity insulation would keep the dew point away from the inner leaf!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    The construction moisture won't dry out - unless of course give time
    1mm per day


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭Slates


    I was talking to an airtightness expert and he recommends that the wall be sealed with a sand and cement coat before applying the insulated slabs


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    Slates wrote: »
    I was talking to an airtightness expert and he recommends that the wall be sealed with a sand and cement coat before applying the insulated slabs

    What exact thickness did this expert specify?
    What exact proportions of cement and sand did he have in mind?
    What admixtures, if any, did he prescribe?
    What finish did he prescribe on the 'coat'?


    The reason I ask these questions is that a thin layer of sand /cement will not have much less porosity than the blocks, if the blocks are good quality.

    Because of the nature of the particle size in plaster skim, it provides a much higher level of airtightness.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,282 ✭✭✭sas


    Carlow52 wrote: »


    The reason I ask these questions is that a thin layer of sand /cement will not have much less porosity than the blocks, if the blocks are good quality.

    Because of the nature of the particle size in plaster skim, it provides a much higher level of airtightness.

    Great info. here.

    Quick additional question. I've been told that there are gypsum base coat products which are an alternative to the sand a cement layer. Would using this also provide any additional benefit in terms of airtightness in your opinion?

    Also, have you any thoughts on how to minimise the effect of sockets\switches on your airtightness in your external walls? Obviously not putting them there is the short answer. There are going to be external corners where you don't have a choice though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 344 ✭✭Slates


    Carlow52 wrote: »
    What exact thickness did this expert specify?
    What exact proportions of cement and sand did he have in mind?
    What admixtures, if any, did he prescribe?
    What finish did he prescribe on the 'coat'?


    The reason I ask these questions is that a thin layer of sand /cement will not have much less porosity than the blocks, if the blocks are good quality.

    Because of the nature of the particle size in plaster skim, it provides a much higher level of airtightness.
    PM me and I will give you the company details and you can ask all these questions yourself


Advertisement