What board to use when tiling

eeiifn

Hi,

I'm about to tile upstairs bathroom floor. Currently there are just red deal floor boards on joices. I plan to take up the joices and replace with some sheets of board - water proof board ?? or Marine Ply or what?

Could someone please advise me what board to use, its not wet room - there will be a shower tray if that makes any difference.

thanks in advance

Carpenter09

hi
all you need to do is put down 6mm wbp plywood on top of the floor boards.you need to screw it down every 6inches.wbp is water and boil proof plywood.you shouldn't need to replace any floor boards or joist unless they are damaged!!

Joey the lips

Carpenter09 wrote: »

hi
all you need to do is put down 6mm wbp plywood on top of the floor boards.you need to screw it down every 6inches.wbp is water and boil proof plywood.you shouldn't need to replace any floor boards or joist unless they are damaged!!

This is exactly what we used but we screwed it down every 2" with 20mm BRASS screws for extra security especially in a timber frame house where there is a lot more movement around the joints. Also do your best to try avoid cutting the ply as much as possible.ie try fit it all as one peice.

Finally your suppose to prime the ply with primer but not many do. Polybond is a good primer and is a lot cheaper than the specialist ones.

cork1

Joey the lips wrote: »

Finally your suppose to prime the ply with primer but not many do. Polybond is a good primer and is a lot cheaper than the specialist ones.

be very very careful! ask the tile suppier about polybond. 99.999% tell you not to you it as it creates too much of a shiny surface and at times the adhesive wont cling.there is a special primer for a reason.

Joey the lips

cork1 wrote: »

be very very careful! ask the tile suppier about polybond. 99.999% tell you not to you it as it creates too much of a shiny surface and at times the adhesive wont cling.there is a special primer for a reason.

True most tilers will use there own to stand over it but guaranteed it works fine but seen as though we are at a difference of opinion I will happily go along with the specialist primer

Autorotation

Brass screws are a must alright so they don't rust. I think 6mm ply is way too thin to prevent deflection and subsequent tile/grout cracking but that's just my opinion! Don't have a ply join over a join in the floor boards over a joist. Some tile adhesive manufacturers recommend polybond alright but others don't, and with their's it won't work! Follow the instructions! Use flexible adhesive. Powdered is best, esp for floors. Better than WBP ply is to use cement board (eg hardibacker) if u can afford it.

darcy.jonny

if the bathroom is on the first floor , get the bathroom tanked , it may be an expensive addition , but its one sure way to protect against leakages .

theres only so long tiles and seelers are going to last

eeiifn

Thanks all for the replys...... sorry I ment to say I will take up red deal and not the joices:P... Ok so I'll take up the red deal and plan to put down 18mm of water proof board, then lay the opposite direction 6mm of ply board. Get this primed, Get shower area tanked. Then tile with flexible adhesive and grout..... Does this sound right?? Oh and plenty of brass screws.... (I'm changing the layout of the bathroom so I think I need to take up red deal to access pipes etc otherwise I could put the ply on the red deal).........

Autorotation

Now you're talking!... The 18mm WBP followed by 6mm WBP is the right way to go. As an alternative to the 6mm WBP consider Hardibacker 250 which is also 6mm thick but is a perfect base for tiles. Some adhesive manufacturers don't like using ply as a tile base, just give BAL a ring and ask them! However if u want to stick to the ply (excuse the pun) its still not too bad. Brooks sell Hardibacker. Chadwicks sell another brand (Durock) but at 4 times the price. Mapei and BAL are the best adhesive and grout.

Autorotation

Oh and I think I read that TileStyle have a sale on or coming up to maybe a good chance to get the adhesive and grout. BTW also stock Mapei, and I think Tubsntiles do BAL (as do TileStyle) so ring around and see who'll give u the best price!... :-)

eeiifn

Thanks for that, will check out BAL? Any idea roughly what you pay for this? thanks again..

Joey the lips

Larsen do a new floor adhesive is a polymer and can be used on walls its in an orange and blue bag and I guarantee any tiler I have worked with lately(5 off) says its the best adhesive they have used in a long time and its very reasonabley priced. As larsen dont specify a primer you can use any. We generally used the EVO primer which is quite good.

Autorotation

I honestly can't remember prices off the top of my head but if u check their website, decide which one u want and then ring TileStyle and/or one or two of the others and ask for a price you'll have it in no time. Don't be afraid to haggle too! I haven't tried Larsen Joey but it sounds good from what you're saying!

eeiifn

hi

just checked my docket and the tile shop sold me EVODE OPF TECHNIK ADHESIVE and TECHNIK Floor gout.... are these any good? I would prefer
to change them if they werent as good as others mention....

thanks again for all the advise..:o

Joey the lips

eeiifn wrote: »

hi

just checked my docket and the tile shop sold me EVODE OPF TECHNIK ADHESIVE and TECHNIK Floor gout.... are these any good? I would prefer
to change them if they werent as good as others mention....

thanks again for all the advise..:o

Its fine but takes 2 days(Honestly) to set none of the tilers would use it because of this. You still need primer

decdoc

not to hijack the thread but I've some tiling to do myself in the near future and I've seen this stuff used on a few american tv shows and recommend for tiling on wooden floors. I was wondering has any experience using it. I'm thinking of using it on top on 18mm WBP for my bathroom and hallway.

Autorotation

I've never seen it but that's a top quality company. Why do u want to use it? If its for sound insulation maybe consider as an alternative Marmox board (same as Wedi board). Tu%*nTi%*es sell it at around 45euro a sheet or hotfloors.ie sell it at about 17euro a sheet. Good stuff. If its for waterproofing then either tanking or a layer of thick polythene sheeting (DPM) under the plywood/marmox/cement board will seal the floor completely...

decdoc

Well I was mainly thinking of using it to decouple the tiles from the plywood, and it will also tank the bathroom floor upstairs. I've seen it on ebay for 10euro a square metre so it's in a similar price to any of the other solutions I've seen.

Autorotation

Fair enough! I've never seen it so can't comment on it. If u end up using it I'd be curious to find out how u got on. Personally I'd just use cement board, guaranteed no deflection and no problems tiling on it unlike plywood. However your solution might be cheaper, but you'll still need to ensure the floor won't bend

eeiifn

hi,

just wondering if you could also advise me on the cost for laying these tiles..... There are porcelain backed marble tile (40x60). I have 10 sq yards on the floor, 5 sq yards in the shower and 4 sq yards around the bath.... total about 19/20 sq yards. I dont have any borders or anything just this tile - using a shower tray. I'm getting a huge variation in price - I've gotten 2 prices one for €500 and the other for €1200 - which is the most realistic (I did get a big shock with the last price). What is a realistic figure to expect - my quotes havent really helped me as they are so different?? Thanks for any direction on this again

eeiifn

Autorotation wrote: »

Now you're talking!... The 18mm WBP followed by 6mm WBP is the right way to go. As an alternative to the 6mm WBP consider Hardibacker 250 which is also 6mm thick but is a perfect base for tiles. Some adhesive manufacturers don't like using ply as a tile base, just give BAL a ring and ask them! However if u want to stick to the ply (excuse the pun) its still not too bad. Brooks sell Hardibacker. Chadwicks sell another brand (Durock) but at 4 times the price. Mapei and BAL are the best adhesive and grout.

Hi Autorotation,

I was looking at this Marmox board you mention, is that ok to use over the 18mm WBP instead of the 6mm ply? Is it hard to fix or would I need a professional to do it compare to fitting the ply?? Also does it also need to be primed? Sorry I'm new at all this... Also is 6mm ok or should I go 10mm??

Autorotation

Hi Eeiifn, sorry I can't help u with quotes, I've always done my own work so have no clue about costs. The Marmox board is fine for tiling over for a floor but yes go for 10mm. Fixing is easy... the WBP ply underneath should be primed with whatever primer the brand of tile adhesive ur using recommends. Then lay the boards on a bed of tile adhesive (flexible) combed with a 1/4'' square notched trowel. As you lay each sheet butt them together with silicone sealant between them...

Autorotation

(Contd) Then tape the joints, sticking the tape down with the same tile adhesive, and spread out a very thin extra layer of adhesive over the tape. When dry use brass screws and penny washers to screw the boards down for extra rigidity (screw them down flush). No further priming necessary before tiling. Ur left with a fully waterproof bed for the tiles.

eeiifn

Hi Autorotation

is Marmox and Hardibacker 250 the same thing?? if not which is the best/easiest to use?
Thanks again for taking the time to reply to all these questions....;)

Autorotation

No problem!... Hardibacker is sort of like plasterboard except its made of modified cement. Its very strong, waterproof, and very tough but is quite heavy and a bit difficult to cut.
Its 'the ideal' surface to tile on. The Marmox is dense extruded foam sandwiched between a cement mesh. It is also totally waterproof and tough and strong, and can be cut easily with a stanley knife. A sheet can be picked up with 2 fingers!... Both are fitted the same way to a floor, except washers aren't reqd for hardibacker

Autorotation

If you're doing the walls too then maybe use the Marmox altogether, but either works fine. I suggest going into Brooks and have a look at the cement board and do the same with the Marmox in Tubs. See which one you like!... Again, if u order from hotfloors.ie its delivered to ur door, if that's any factor...

Autorotation

...sorry should have added for the Marmox you need 12.5mm minimum if ur using it on the walls

fitzie79

hi - i was looking for insulation to place under an electric mat in bathroom and came across the marmox boards on hotfloors.ie and then found this thread. would the mamox boards work well as an insulator? i don't want to heat the concrete floor under the electric mat and dont want anything that would raise the floor level too much so it seems like marmox might be the ideal solution?