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Wet patches on base of basement walls.

  • 01-07-2009 5:14pm
    #1
    unclebill98
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,816 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    So, I am in the house about 3 months and I've got a de-humidifier almost 3 weeks in the basement trying to get rid of the patches of damp concrete.

    As soon as the patches go and I move the machine to another part to start trying that out the patches return. So far their not as big as the time before but the time before they had months to get large.

    Is this normal drying results when using this machine?

    I've got bitchune8000 on the outside of the basement and the tanking was protected before back fill. I am hoping its just water retention in the concrete. Both the basement builder and the house builder believe its drying out but the engineer thinks that the patches should not be returning and is concerned.

    Thoughts please?


Comments

  • #2
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 42,171 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    concrete can dry out at a rate of 1mm per day... so on average 200mm concrete (assumed) can take 200 days.... then take into account you probably have 4 planes of concrete (3 walls and a floor).....

    how much water has the dehumidifier taken in the 3 weeks??


  • #3
    unclebill98
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,816 ✭✭✭unclebill98


    hi,

    Thanks for the reply.

    I've stopped counting after about 150lt in 2 weeks.

    I was down there is one of the workers and he was looking at it. When he put his hand on the bottom of the plaster board(all skirting has been removed) the whole board was coming away from the wall. He said that the boards are insualted and are glue direct onto the walls and its clear to him that this has failed.

    Engineer is coming to view this tomorrow, but I can assume now that this is not a good sign...... The boards themselves show no sign of moisture!


  • #4
    Retro-Fit
    Closed Accounts Posts: 79 ✭✭Retro-Fit


    Its likely to be condensation. You humidity is at a guess >85%, the air temperature 18+ however the surfaces are 15- degrees, so your plaster is a cold bridge. This happens in most standard build houses, its a cold bridge, good design usually eliminates thermal bridges. You must design your surface to remain within 2 degrees of the design indoor temperature. Engineer won't be of much help. Composite insulation boards are never a solution as they are not fitted completely tighty and are bridged by floors. The problem is in the design.


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