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Fabricating rigid brake lines

  • 07-06-2009 10:42pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,487 ✭✭✭


    Anyone done it ? Any gotchas or shouldve-done-it-differents ?

    I need ro replace a bit on the front of my W124 coupe - looks fairly straightforward, I'll mock it up with wire and then copy it in copper with the correct fittings. I assume 3/16 is what I need.

    Is copper OK or should I look at nickel pipe ?

    I aim to head in the direction of Ebay or Frosr for some generic flaring tools, pipe-bender and pipe-cutter + a box of various unions and joints.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,946 ✭✭✭BeardyGit


    Frank, you're welcome to borrow my cutter and flaring tools if you want. I don't have a bender for brake pipe as I've usually found it just as easy to bend by hand, slowly and carefully, and I've never had trouble with the results. I work in Cherrywood, just off the M50 if you're passing by, or if you still bump into Mitch M, I can drop it off with him if you're likely to be out in Laois visiting any time soon? Hang on to the kit for a month or so if that'll get you sorted. Let me know.

    Gil


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,266 ✭✭✭MercMad


    Copper should be fine and bends easily without kinking which is harder with the nickel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,487 ✭✭✭franksm


    Sorry lads, ain't been n Boards since I posted that !

    Gil, that's very kind of you ! I have coper pipe + bits on the to me via ebay, so I'll gladly borrow the tools you have. Will PM you.

    Funny thing about the NCT - they failed the car originally due to a tiny leak from a flexible pipe where it joins the caliper (my fault, I had the calipers hanging from the bodywork using cable-ties while doing the bushes, so it must have stressed the pipes). I replaced the pipes with new, braided versions and brought it for the NCT retest.

    Passed with flying colours. One week later, brake failure: the rigid pipe goes through the wheel well via a rubber gromit. Muck on the gromit had corroded the rigid pipe and a pinprick hole was all that was needed to lose hydraulic pressure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 95 ✭✭mantaraver


    Don't forget to put the fittings on the line before you flare the ends of the pipe.

    Been there, done that...doh !!:rolleyes:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭Fishtits


    Not sure about the "copper" pipe, I use Cuprinol, an alloy, comes in 5M rolls, as for flaring I use a tool that can be either vice mounted or hand held (very useful for working "as you go" on a car, will get the name and report back, it was cheap & cheerful 20 years ago...

    Bending, Sykes Pickavent do a pliers type former which is very good, I also have a sophisticated, multi diameter, nylon wheel do everything former... which I've never used...


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