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oil v's varnish

  • 01-06-2009 1:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 566 ✭✭✭


    Just got new patio furniture which needs either varnish or oiling. Which is better lasting please?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,509 ✭✭✭SpitfireIV


    Just got new patio furniture which needs either varnish or oiling. Which is better lasting please?

    I'd imagine oil would be a better choice in the long run as varnish is really only a covering on the surface of the wood, oil gets right into it and in the process enhances the natural beauty of the wood. A clean down with wire wool and a coat or two of oil every few years would keep the furniture in shape. Plus, oil is easier to apply than varnish, apply it liberally with a cloth or brush, rub it well in, wipe off the excess and buff it up, none of these brush strokes or the likes that you get with varnish. Being that the furniture is new its going to need 3 or 4 coats of oil if you go down that route.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 566 ✭✭✭westwicklow


    Thanks.... oil sounds good to me so. How long should I leave between coats?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,509 ✭✭✭SpitfireIV


    Depends on the oil to be honest, you can get quick drying formulas, but with teak and danish oil its generally 6 hours or so between coats. There'll be instructions on the tin anyway :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    I bought some new hardwood patio furniture recently and treated them with a Ronseal furniture oil, which I cut using a bit of turps. I left about 6 hours between coats and rubbed the stuff well in with a green scrubber. Be sure to dispose of the cloths etc very carefully due to fire risk.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 566 ✭✭✭westwicklow


    Thanks to all for the information.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,509 ✭✭✭SpitfireIV


    I bought some new hardwood patio furniture recently......

    :eek: You bought furniture??! :p
    Thanks to all for the information.

    No problem, hope they turn out well, better get them done quick before this good weather goes :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    :eek: You bought furniture??! :p

    I did :D, four chairs and table for €180, wouldn't even buy the timber to make them for that!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 566 ✭✭✭westwicklow


    3 coats of oil over 3 dry days seems to have done the trick.... and it's just as well, now that we are back to the "monsoon season"!!!! :D

    Thanks for the advise.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭S.L.F


    The one I recommend is Sadolin Natur.

    It has to be re-applied every year.

    It's sort of like an oil but covers better and soaks into the wood.

    Not sure if I can mention a manufacturers product.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 226 ✭✭ennisa


    Why not both? Oil for the colour and deeper protection and exterior varnish for the harder wearing surface finish. If you have the time and the inclination that is :D


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭S.L.F


    ennisa wrote: »
    Why not both? Oil for the colour and deeper protection and exterior varnish for the harder wearing surface finish. If you have the time and the inclination that is :D

    The reason you have to re-apply every year is that the oil is worn away by the sun.

    If you put varnish onto teak or such timbers it bubbles because of the oils in the wood.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Double Barrel


    ennisa wrote: »
    Why not both? Oil for the colour and deeper protection and exterior varnish for the harder wearing surface finish. If you have the time and the inclination that is :D

    You could used a home-brew of spar varnish, (a flexible varnish applied to wooden boats that is high in natural resins) mixed with a long oil such as Sadolin garden furniture oil, add in pure tung oil and maybe some beeswax, carnuaba, or paraffin wax.
    Melt wax in double boiler. Be very careful ..... use LOW HEAT.

    Thin half of the mixture, if necessary, to a watery consistency with turpentine or common mineral spirits.
    Thinning the oil-varnish mixture gives it workability and lets you build up thin layers of finish, always better than a few thick ones. You want this stuff to soak into the wood as far as possible, so thin is better for the early going.

    Flood surface and allow to penetrate for 30 minutes. Reapply, allowing an additional 15 minutes of penetration.
    How many coats to apply is a matter of taste and judgement, what look you want and how much protection you need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,339 ✭✭✭congo_90


    Sorry the hyjakck thread as this one half answers my questions..
    is there much difference between water based oil and erm... oil based oil?
    Have an ash garden table that'll be needing oil in the next week


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭S.L.F


    congo_90 wrote: »
    Sorry the hyjakck thread as this one half answers my questions..
    is there much difference between water based oil and erm... oil based oil?
    Have an ash garden table that'll be needing oil in the next week

    Te difference is that water based finishes stay on the surface while oilbased ones penetrate the surface.

    Also you can't get water-based oil but can get water based varnish.

    I wouldn't use water based varnish for exterior finshes.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 6,869 ✭✭✭Mahatma coat


    I use Waterbased Varnishes for most everything

    I also use a Timber Primer first tho

    the combined effect is the best of all outcomes, you get the penetration of the oil without the evaporation and the hard coating of the varnish with very little flaking of the skin.

    I use a product made in Australia but distributed by Bostik worldwide.


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