Appreciate some advice on setting up a recess in wall for LCDTV

LeperKing

Hi Folks,

Please see image below illustrating what I think is best for setting up the wall for mounting a flat screen TV.




There's a few things I want to achieve....
1) Have a recess big enough to allow mounting of a TV as flush as possible to the wall. The picture probably doesn't illustrate that well.
2) Have all video signals (HDMI/SCART/Co-ax) wired thru the wall to the lower right hand corner for where the media boxes will be.
3) The wall is a standard 150mm internal wall, and I want to ensure that the recess does not allow extra noise to travel to the other side of wall, or any rooms above it.
4) If I want to remove the TV, I can put a picture in front of it to hide the recess.

I'd appreciate any advice you could give, I'm getting the walls redecorated, so I thought this would be the best time to do this. The type of info I'm looking for are:
1) Considering its a internal wall, how recessed can I make it?
2) How big does the recess need to be take the mounts for a TV suitable for a 4.2mX3.2m room? I havn't picked out anything, but the new 21:9 philips screens look interesting.:D
3) Can I use wall plates or should I use stray cables?
4) Is there a way for mounting brackets not to carry the sound from the TV back into the wall?
5) Any issues with close proximity to the radiator, all though in a radiator cabinet?


Thanks,
LK.

cnocbui

The Phillips set you mentioned is 105mm deep :rolleyes:

Any bracket is going to take up room on top of that. On top of that, there is the depth any fasteners are going to need to be sunk to in the remaining wall in order to fasten a bracket.

I don't see this working out the way you perhaps envisage. The depth of the set + bracket thickness + fastener depth is going to exceed the depth of the wall. Adding rubber sheet under the bracket and rubber washers under the heads of the fasteners to reduce sound transmission would only exacerbate the problem.

I am not a structural engineer but I would think removing more than half the block depth might see you having structural problems.

I think you would be better off constructing a large beveled fascia.frame out of polystyrene or some such to give it a recessed look but where it is actually just mounted to the wall as normal.

cheapskate

Hi,

Not enough info to make a definitive reply,

• Is the wall connecting to another dwelling
• Is the wall concrete
• Is it a Cavity wall construction

As I'm far as I know, if you install a Lintel which I would do in any case under these conditions you shouldn't have a structural problem BUT you may open up a whole new bag of worms, INSULATION both sound and Heat, moisture etc.
Not sure if it would be worth it but if your determined then I would go with the lintel and Damp proof and insulate behind the panel.

Alternatively Pioneer KRP are only 94mm deep and fit very flat against the wall, you could further recess this into wall but how far you could go with it safely I couldn't say!

As Cnocbui said already, I would be hesitant to recess the full depth of the panel for structural reasons (w/o lintel) and to ensure adequate fastening to the remaining wall

You said the wall is 150mm thick, I'm not a builder but I would have thought 100mm was standard (cavity wall thickness for the inner leaf)
Therefore I would seek advise from Engineer/Architect/Builder but would imagine anything up to 1/3 thickness of the wall would be okay.

Another off the wall idea would be to construct an inner leaf wall in the room, install a lintel - plaster, decorate, problem solved! (room smaller though)

CS

g5hn710m4xpdwy

How about the easy less messy way of doing it? Build a stud wall up against the current one. Very easy to do and will make hiding the cables easy and even install some mroe sound/heat insulation if you wish.