Noisy water tank

Builderfromhell

I have a problem with a noisy water tank.
When toilet is flushed or tap is open the water tank starts to fill. This then wakes or otherwise annoys the occupants of the bedroom adjacent where the water tank is.
The water tank is situated in a walk-in wardrobe with a rockwool filled timber partition and a solid wood door.
I'm surprised they are irritated by this but the house is so well insualted and air-tight that there is very little background noise from wind, traffic etc.

Any ideas or experience appreciated.

gman2k

Sound is generally transmitted via solid surfaces - building fabric, and via air transmission.
If the partition wall between the tank and bedroom was double slabbed both sides, it would be a big improvement.
Also, are there any services - plug sockets switches on this wall - these could be sealed up with suitable mastics etc.
Finally, look at the door between the two areas, a heavier door - eg a FD30, and seals around the frame will cut down on air transmission.
You could also isolate the tank from the floor with a rubber mat, and further soundproof the tank with additional insulation.
A good tight cover over the tank itself will help a lot also.
I'd start with the tank first, before doing any more expensive changes to walls and doors.

Poor Uncle Tom

I'm presuming it's from the ball-cock valve releasing water into the tank under pressure. Fit a length of very flexible pipe to the valve outlet and let the pipe extend into the water below. End of most of the noise involved. The Shhhhhhhhhh noise from the valve of the water under pressure will be there but the dribbling and dripping and splashing will be gone.

Builderfromhell

Thanks guys.

I think adding a piece of hose pipe to ball cock so that water does not drip should make a big difference.
A friend of mine also suggested bending the ball cock float arm so that it is higher up. This should have the effect of raising the water level so that the water inlet may be under water. I'll look at this. Hopefully the overflow pipe will be higher.
I can't help wonder why they don't design and make theses things quieter. It can't be that difficult.
I will also cover water tank with about 200mm of rockwool to deaden air born sound.

icbarros

I was surprised to notice how my new Triton electric shower is unbelievable noisy. The one I had in my old house (Triton as well) was an older model and much quiter. I went to T&T to check their models and all of them were extremely noisy so I assume there is nothing wrong with my one.
Can we ask manufacturers to improve this??
I am of the opinion that every appliance that produces noise (ie. hairdryers, dishwash machines, electric saw, lawn mower, etc) should be rated in decibels.

kobs15

By adding a piece of pipe to the bs1212 ball valve it is against building regs, if theres is a drop in the mains preassure water can be siphoned back into the water main and if the tank water hasnt benn used over a period this can contaminate the mains water that some one down the line might drink etc.

You can change the ball valve to a discus type floating ball valve i have installed many of them to reduce water hammer and in general to stop the filling sound.

Hope this helps, also as the guy above said plenty of insulation and a tank cover

Zilog

Maybe the ball valve is too small and the noise is caused by high water pressure?
Perhaps a pressure reducing valve or a larger diameter ball valve will help?

danjo-xx

Builderfromhell wrote: »

I can't help wonder why they don't design and make theses things quieter. It can't be that difficult.

Mine makes a fierce racket, I reckon its worn out probably 25yrs old or more, but why not fit a equilibrium valve (ballcock)

The TORBECK® plastic equilibrium float valve fits bottom inlet toilet cisterns. It will also fit header tanks. Reduce water hammer and filling noises. WRAS approved. Variable height of 8.1/2" - 11.1/2" with 1/2" increments.



http://www.bes.co.uk/products/120.asp

I'm no expert but according to my DIY manual this should do the trick.