Upgrading SAW?

Banana-rama

Hi guys,

Just wondering what sort of gear box the A&K M249 SAW Mk.1 has? I wanted to buy a high speed motor or high speed gears or something, but i just want to make sure i get the right ones.

And has anyone got any ideas of other worthy upgrades? Maybe a tight-bore barrel? Gears, gear-box, etc.??

Let me know what you think, i want to really do it up!

Cheers!!!!!!!

Masada

the standard gears are alright but you could get better ones if you wanted. they use regular V2.V3 gears, anti reversal latches, pistons etc. the motor is a short shaft as seen in a lot of V3 gearboxes like the G36's and AKs.

It also has some unique bushings but they are metal bearings so theres no real need to change them.
My list would be,
strong piston, promethius Hard piston, Madbull 7 metal tooth etc etc (oh and be sure to do the AOE.
G&P Short shaft motor,
Mosfet,
metal piston head, (gives it a much snappier sound)
proper shim job,
CA hopup unit.
Gaurder hopup rubber and madbull black barrel.
Bearing spring guide, (these can be a little fiddly and sometimes need dremeling to fit. its a V2 one your looking for though.
the micro switches can be remperamental in the A&K too so you should take that out and bring it to Maplin, get a good quality one.

thats pretty much all i can think of at the moment but you'll get some serious performance from it with the above. I built 2 Para's last week with a similar setup and they are pure evil.

Toasty113

The barrell length is 480 so any inner barrell that length will work.

thermo

Tight bore barel???? Kinda defeats the purpose of a support gun..............

Dread-Lock

thermo wrote: »

Tight bore barel???? Kinda defeats the purpose of a support gun..............

Not really.
Just because you can hit someone with 3-4 rounds instead of 15 doesn't mean it's not a support gun?

Lacertus

Masada wrote: »

I built 2 Para's last week with a similar setup and they are pure evil.

they are indeed evil richie, ye did a good job mate,

so ye defo if you want a much more superior saw, thats the way to go,

Beast ASI

Reduces the spread, so you can't cover/supress as large an area.

Banana-rama

Ha, Cheers folks! Sounds awesome!

Just a few things...
MASADA: strong piston, promethius Hard piston, Madbull 7 metal tooth etc etc (oh and be sure to do the AOE. -- What's an AOE? Is that when you strip out the second to last tooth on the piston? And would you recommend doing that on all pistons?

metal piston head, (gives it a much snappier sound) -- And i already ahve one of these for another gun i'm waiting on, but can you use an aluminium piston head with poly-carb piston? I figured you could?

Bearing spring guide, (these can be a little fiddly and sometimes need dremeling to fit. its a V2 one your looking for though. -- And if i get this would it also be worth getting a bearing piston head? Or would bearings at both ends be worse?

the micro switches can be remperamental in the A&K too so you should take that out and bring it to Maplin, get a good quality one. WHere are the micro switches, what are they for, and are they easy to change?

You also mentioned a mosfet? I have heard of them, but are they beneficial? And do they contain all the wires necessary to re-wire the gun?


And thanks to you others too! I was just thinking tight-bore more for distance rather than accuracy, but maybe i'll reconsider?

Thanks folks, any other ideas very gratfully received!

Cheers!

Banana-rama

Also, just wondering what's the best combination of motor and gears to get to that "pure evil, rapid fire killing machine" that i'm after?

Should i go high speed or high torque motor combined with high speed or high torque gear sets?

And should i go metal gears, or plastic/poly-carb? And any ideas on where to purchase or brands to look for?

Thanks!!!

Dread-Lock

Beast ASI wrote: »

Reduces the spread, so you can't cover/supress as large an area.

You could just you know move the gun yourself :rolleyes:...

Toasty113

Metal gears definetly! Not sure about having a whole metal piston though.

Hey masada, how much did all that cost you in the end?

Masada

Banana-rama wrote: »

Ha, Cheers folks! Sounds awesome!

Just a few things...
What's an AOE? Is that when you strip out the second to last tooth on the piston? And would you recommend doing that on all pistons?

And i already ahve one of these for another gun i'm waiting on, but can you use an aluminium piston head with poly-carb piston? I figured you could?

And if i get this would it also be worth getting a bearing piston head? Or would bearings at both ends be worse?

are the micro switches, what are they for, and are they easy to change?

You also mentioned a mosfet? I have heard of them, but are they beneficial? And do they contain all the wires necessary to re-wire the gun?


And thanks to you others too! I was just thinking tight-bore more for distance rather than accuracy, but maybe i'll reconsider?

Thanks folks, any other ideas very gratfully received!

Cheers!

The AOE is "Angle of Engagment" and you do this by removing the second and sometimes 3rd tooth from the piston, then place a spacer between the piston and piston head. this leaves the first too sitting slightly further back than beforehand and the gear can pick it up better without causing damage to the tooth.

You can use an Aluminium piston head with a polycarb piston no probs. avoid metal pistons altotether, they slow down the ROF and damage pretty easily since they dont flex like the polycarb.

Yep, you could use a bearing piston head too, be aware though, by fitting these you shorten the stroke of the spring so its being compressed that little bit more. with just a bearing spring guide you would get an extra 10fps approx on an average setup and adding a piston head too will push it a little more. just make sure you get the right spring to match but 249 springs are easy to change so its no big deal.,

The microswitch is what you are pressing when you pull the trigger. its inside the gearbox and is held in with 2 allen keys. you can remove it without opening the gearbox too. replace this for a more reliable one..

The mosfet is an electronic switch that sends the power directly to the motor from the battery instead of putting it across the trigger contacts. with high voltage on the trigger, the contacts can get pitted and burn out. mosfets prevent this and also give a slightly better ROF since there is less resistance in the circuit. they usually come with enough wiring to do the full rewire job too.

Dread-Lock wrote: »

You could just you know move the gun yourself :rolleyes:...

I fully agree,. airsoft guns are ridiculously inaccurate as it is, you can never be sure of a shot even with the best barrels so why limit yourself. then theres the fact that its an A&K clone and the barrels are never gonna be the highest quality anyway.

Toasty113 wrote: »

Metal gears definitely! Not sure about having a whole metal piston though.

Hey Masada, how much did all that cost you in the end?

it wasnt for me, it was for lacertus above,

Tigger

high rof setups are not nessiciarally the way to go for a support gun if you are looking to suppress and support team positions a slow constand strteam of fire is probably more efficient
if however you are using it as an assault rille its the way to go

my mk 1 upgrades included softer spring (80ms decreases strain allows for a better rof)ca hop chamber, systema hop , 6.03 barrel (barrel increases the fps counteracting the drop from the 80ms spring) i also replaced a lot of the screws and rivets to make it feel more stable

when i want to go assault i use a 9.6v when support a 8.4v

Lacertus

Tigger wrote: »

high rof setups are not nessiciarally the way to go for a support gun if you are looking to suppress and support team positions a slow constand strteam of fire is probably more efficient
if however you are using it as an assault rille its the way to go
when i want to go assault i use a 9.6v when support a 8.4v

ye but there's nothing better than blasting of a saw with a amazing ROF screaming whos ur daddy!! with a cigar in ur mouth

Tigger

Lacertus wrote: »

ye but there's nothing better than blasting of a saw with a amazing ROF screaming whos ur daddy!! with a cigar in ur mouth

i like to laugh hysterically

thermo

Beast ASI wrote: »

Reduces the spread, so you can't cover/supress as large an area.

well said! when using a normal barel you can engage groups of "enemy" at distance,,,,,,,,, i have on ocassion engaged 3/4 guys with one burst and got them all,,,,,, no movement on my part required!! just like in real life!

Dread-Lock

thermo wrote: »

well said! when using a normal barel you can engage groups of "enemy" at distance,,,,,,,,, i have on ocassion engaged 3/4 guys with one burst and got them all,,,,,, no movement on my part required!! just like in real life!

Each to their own I guess.
I would rather have a tight bore and move the gun myself rather they leave it up to chance and hope the BB's go where I want.

That being said I still have the stock barrel in my M249, but a tight bore is one of the upgrades I have planned for it.