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Skirting boards and new wooden flooring

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  • 22-05-2009 11:25pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭


    Hey all,

    I'm looking to put wooden flooring down in living room. The problem is that the skirting boards are in place (flush to floor) already and are tacked and glued.

    So my options are (afaik)

    1) Leave skirting boards in place and get floor layed right up to them. But if wood contracts, a gap might be exposed

    2) Remove skirting boards and probably cause damage to them and plaster work. But this will allow the flooring to laid 10mm from edge of wall and then skirting board replaced to cover the gap

    3) Some told me there exists a tool that will cut out a notch along the bottom of the skirting board without removing it, allowing the wooden floor to be laid under the skirting. Does such a tool exist?

    I'd love to hear of people's experience or opinions on what is best to do.

    I don't want to use beading at all along the walls as I think it ruins the look.

    Many thanks


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 4,504 ✭✭✭SpitfireIV


    irlrobins wrote: »

    So my options are (afaik)

    1) Leave skirting boards in place and get floor layed right up to them. But if wood contracts, a gap might be exposed

    Not an option I'm afraid, to have it looking any way decent the flooring would ave to be bang slap right up against the skirting, but its irrelevant as yu need an expansion gap all round the edge of 10mm.


    3) Some told me there exists a tool that will cut out a notch along the bottom of the skirting board without removing it, allowing the wooden floor to be laid under the skirting. Does such a tool exist?

    Never heard of such a tool to be honest, thats not to say one doesnt exist but I think it'd be flawed, ie, you'd have to put in spacers along the starting wall, how would you get them back out? Then when it comes to the end wall I'd imagine that it'd be incredibly hard, if at all possible, to join the last board and get it in under the skirting (or vice versa) with no visible gap.
    I'd love to hear of people's experience or opinions on what is best to do.

    I don't want to use beading at all along the walls as I think it ruins the look.

    Many thanks


    The molding is the quickest, and easiest option I'm afraid, I'm not fond of it either. Personally I think removing the skirting boards is your only option. When I'm fitting skirting 9/10 I screw them in place and plug the hole with a wood plug, makes removing them, if necessary much easier. How are yours secured in place? If they are studded walls it might not be too bad, but if they're fixed to masonary walls (which I assume at least a few of them are) then they'd be steel nailed and a nightmare to get off without causing some marks to them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭irlrobins


    The molding is the quickest, and easiest option I'm afraid, I'm not fond of it either.
    Yeah I'm not either. I've seen people do it and I think it just looks ugly.
    How are yours secured in place?
    Tacked and glued afaik. So I'm thinking taking them off will pull plaster off too. But I guess the extra effort and expense would be worth it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,683 ✭✭✭Carpenter


    3) Some told me there exists a tool that will cut out a notch along the bottom of the skirting board without removing it, allowing the wooden floor to be laid under the skirting. Does such a tool exist?

    There is such a tool but you will pay 200 for it


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,504 ✭✭✭SpitfireIV


    irlrobins wrote: »


    Tacked and glued afaik. So I'm thinking taking them off will pull plaster off too. But I guess the extra effort and expense would be worth it.

    Ah, pity, held on with no more nails or the likes? (god I hate that stuff!). If you ran a Stanley blade along the top of the skirting (where the skirting meets the wall) so that when removing the skirting it might limit any plaster/paint coming off past the score line, plus, keep in mind that if you remove and refit the skirting they will be 20mm higher or so, so you have a little bit to play with. I wouldnt worry all that much about plaster coming off behind the skirting as its not going to be sen anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,815 ✭✭✭✭galwayrush


    A properly designed moulding would be the best option, something that would enhance the existing skirting board.Maybe even having the same mould as the existing one, making it look like a double profile.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    The tool exists and yes its great, i hired one (I think sam hire)

    I would use the beading the kids have my floor looking like the moon with all the creators!


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭irlrobins


    galwayrush wrote: »
    A properly designed moulding would be the best option, something that would enhance the existing skirting board.Maybe even having the same mould as the existing one, making it look like a double profile.

    Like I said, beading or moulding looks awful. I definitely won't be doing that.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    following the theme offered by CB1798: get a thin sheet of sheet metal, say about A4 size and 2mm thick and rest it longways on top of the skirting board against the wall.
    then get a 4" bolster chisel and gently tap it down in behind the skirting board, the sb should prise off without damaging the pb above the sb as the sheet will protect it.
    u can continue with this process or else get a fine toothed hand saw and cut along, using the sheet as a protector.
    this will cut the pins if any.

    if u have a few wedges as u go along u will keep the pressure off the blade


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 443 ✭✭cork1


    irlrobins wrote: »
    Like I said, beading or moulding looks awful. I definitely won't be doing that.

    id agree with gaway rush about the moulding ive seen it done in a georgean house and looked very well. what your thinking is your average 3/4" beading that look like rubbish. get a wooden strip 3/4" thick and make it about 3" high off the floor. tack it on to the skirting and it will look like part of the skirting. i reckon its the best way out.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    cork1 wrote: »
    id agree with gaway rush about the moulding ive seen it done in a georgean house and looked very well. what your thinking is your average 3/4" beading that look like rubbish. get a wooden strip 3/4" thick and make it about 3" high off the floor. tack it on to the skirting and it will look like part of the skirting. i reckon its the best way out.

    What is the detailing at the architraves around the doors:confused:


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 443 ✭✭cork1


    Carlow52 wrote: »
    What is the detailing at the architraves around the doors:confused:

    you use plinth blocks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Double Barrel


    The easiest and best way in the long run is to take the skirting off.

    Plus +1 for Carlow52 advise.
    Carlow52 wrote: »
    following the theme offered by CB1798: get a thin sheet of sheet metal, say about A4 size and 2mm thick and rest it longways on top of the skirting board against the wall.
    then get a 4" bolster chisel and gently tap it down in behind the skirting board, the sb should prise off without damaging the pb above the sb as the sheet will protect it.
    u can continue with this process or else get a fine toothed hand saw and cut along, using the sheet as a protector.
    this will cut the pins if any.

    if u have a few wedges as u go along u will keep the pressure off the blade


  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭S.L.F


    My own advice would be to use the tool someone was talking about.

    You can cut the architrave with it as well, but you'll probably have to use a chisel in the corners as most machines won't go into corners.

    I also hate those mouldings, I think they look tacky.

    Regarding getting the last board in you'll have to remove at least one length of skirting board in order to get the flooring down.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    cork1 wrote: »
    you use plinth blocks.

    Thanks so then the other side of the door is different


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 443 ✭✭cork1


    its either that or take off all the skirting.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭irlrobins


    I'm leaning towards the idea of having the skirting removed, laying the floor and replacing the skirting or put fresh stuff up depending on how neatly it comes off. I think it will give the cleanest, neatest look. No point spending a lot of money and not do it right.

    Thanks for all the advice guys!


  • Registered Users Posts: 266 ✭✭Bookkeeper09


    I had this problem when I bought a new house. Actually took all of the skirting off in the house and replaced it for less than €100


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    Just for info: came across the tool referred to earlier for cutting a slice off the SB.
    It is a fancy very adjustable biscuit jointer.

    can be seen here
    http://www.realoakfloors.co.uk/bepo_tools.php
    called the Bepo twist.
    At 600 plus stg a pop I will be getting at least 2:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 76 ✭✭3dsteel


    I know this is an old post but I thought some of you might be interested in this blade which you can get for a 4" grinder:
    http://www.ahc-camberley.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=55&products_id=12772

    It's also available from Axminister:
    http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Arbortech-Arbortech-Tuff-Cut-Blade-23535.htm


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 6,869 ✭✭✭Mahatma coat


    I've seen it done where the floorlayer has run a 15mm Cork bead around the edge of the floor, finishes flush with the new floor. not sure how that would go in an Irish Climate tho.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 127 ✭✭Hell Toupee


    The best finish is to remove the skirting. It's not as bad a job as you might think, a little damage to the walls will be hidden as the new skirting will be the thickness of the floor higher than the original.


  • Registered Users Posts: 102 ✭✭centre half


    I would remove skirting and architrave and replace with new, if you are going to some expence as you have said before it will be well worth it. And you will be kicking yourself after if you don't, and wonder why you bothered going to all the hassle.
    Best of luck with the new floor, and hope you will post photos after


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭irlrobins


    Yeah, looks like we're heading that way. Job is getting done next week I hope. Let you know how it looks! Thanks everyone.

    R


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭Stevie Dakota


    Remove the skirting, it is the only way, anything else will look poor. Architrave, kitchen cabinets can be cut with one of these amazing tools and the flooring set underneath. Just did this myself and no nasty mouldings anywhere.

    bosch_pmf-180E.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭irlrobins


    Skirting came off real easy, very lil damage to wall and nothing that will be visible after it goes back on. I might post some pics later in the week.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭irlrobins


    Some pics

    p1030027large.jpg

    p1030041large.jpg

    p1030029large.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 102 ✭✭centre half


    Wow, turned out beautiful mate. What flooring is it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭irlrobins


    Yeah skirting boards came off and back on ok with no probs. They need a lick of paint (came prepainted as far as I can tell but it was a bit thin to begin with.) A good glass paint on it and it will look much better.

    It's a semi solid Walnut. 140mm


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,504 ✭✭✭SpitfireIV


    Thats a real nice floor! I have a soft spot for walnut! :o. It compliments the room well. Nice work!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭irlrobins


    Well obviously my floorer takes credit ;)


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