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Hantarex Polo Monitor Problem

  • 22-05-2009 10:53am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8


    I have a cabinet with a Hantarex Polo 29" monitor. The game works fine (I can hear it) but monitor is dead. There is a repetitive clicking noise coming from the direction of the Power supply.

    Has anyone come across a similar problem ? I have read several theories on this

    (a) that it could need a cap kit (which I have bought)
    (b) there is a short on the board where solder has dried and come loose
    (c) flyback has gone and needs replacing

    I am hoping to narrow it down before I start to do anything invasive.

    If anyone knows of someone who can repair these (cabinet is in Wicklow) then even better.

    Thanks...


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 677 ✭✭✭Mitchomagic


    Dont think a cap kit will fix this,best to just remove the chassis and send it to
    http://www.eurocoin.co.uk/pd-monitor-repairs.cfm,I have used them and have no issues.

    Mitch


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    when I asked eurocoin about my Hantarex issue, they said for most issues they need the chassis AND the tube, so shipping would be ridiculous.

    Ive heard of that problem before, I would post on http://arcadecontrols.com/arcade.htm there is a guy there grantspain who will definitley be able to help you on this.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,947 ✭✭✭BLITZ_Molloy


    Arcadecontrols or arcadeotaku.com have people who know an awful lot about this kind of thing. Consult with them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    I second arcadeokatu also, friendly & knowledgeable chappies. Afaik its a prob with the HOT or flyback, but the guys at the above sites will tell you straight away


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8 doodles


    Thanks everyone for the advice. Will explore all those options (and post back as to which one, if any, turned up to be the solution..)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8 doodles


    Just off the phone with e-Service (Eurocoin's Service and Parts partner) in the UK and they will take the boards and repair them without the tube as they had a Polo 2 28" tube themselves.

    They were really helpful BTW, Jim walked me through removing the boards from the unit. Fingers crossed its an easy (and cheap) repair.

    Thanks to all for the advice and to Mitchomagic for the link to Eurocoin


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8 doodles


    I am removing the board to ship to eService, I assume I disconnect the LOPT from the tube at the tube end (which has the rubber cap/suction cup) attached to the monitor.. anything I should know before I do this (I will discharge to the steel frame of cabinet when doing this although it hasnt been plugged in for months and I believe the Polo's auto discharge anyway)

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 677 ✭✭✭Mitchomagic




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,064 ✭✭✭MontgomeryClift


    I came across this thread through Google because I have the same ticking problem with a Polo 25". I'd like to know how the OP got on with his repair, if he's still here.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8 doodles


    MontgomeryClift, apologies for the late reply, havent checked this thread for a long time.

    In the end I had no luck, eService in the UK repaired the board twice and had it working in their rig, as soon as I put it back into mine it blew again. Seems like a problem with the Yoke and I havent had time in the past few months to look into it again.

    I am hoping to find someone who can repair these in Ireland ? Will probably post a new thread on the topic


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 2,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭LoGiE


    Prehaps take a look in the golden pages? Hell just walk into an arcade and ask who repairs there machines!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 Icebird


    Greetings,

    i have an Hantarex Polo 25" that was dead. I have replaced the flyback and electrolitic caps and then it started to make a tic-tic sound wich i corrected by replacing the C174 (8n2 1600V) cap. Now the monitor gives an excelent image but i have no control in the horizontal width.

    The monitor just has an exceptional wide image. It should be controlable from the remote PCB using the H. Amp 10kRV... but its not working. Any ideas of what the problem is?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,064 ✭✭✭MontgomeryClift


    That's alright, doodles. The chassis was beyond repair. I got a replacement, but I still haven't been able to test it.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 2,975 Mod ✭✭✭✭LoGiE


    Threads merged.


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