Top roping in dalkey quary

Hi all,

The are a few of us interesting in progressing from the wall at UCD to outdoor in dalkey quary.
Can anyone tell me the way things work out there. We have rope but are only able to top rope climb.
Are there any anckors to tie into etc?

Thanks in advanced.
Phil

jkl

We're a traditional climbing country so we use natural protection (nuts, cams, hexes etc for lead climbing) so generally there aren't any artificial anchors around.

Dalkey's a bit of an exception with the of ground stake or peg hanging about.

But in all seriousness you need to know what you're doing to set up a top rope system safely. If you've only climbed indoors you need to make sure you have enough of the right type of gear to set anchors and the proper knowledge and skills to set it up.

For a normal top-rope you'll need to set up an anchor on 2 points (minimum), equalise them at a point where there climbing rope wont drag over edges etc. this can be done with a rope or with slings etc. Attach the climbing rope to this anchor by 2 locking carabiners.

Then belay as you would indoor.

I'm assuming you dont know how to set up a top rope, if you do then i'm so for being patronising.

You can pay for lessons etc, loads of instructors out there are willing to take your money and show you how.
I'm free on sat and would be happy to take you out to dalkey and show you how to set a top-rope, or even on a dry evening during the week.

Hay JKL,

Thanks for the advice. You are right about my ability. I've been using the wall in UCD for about 5 months and really want to get outside.
Don't know how to setup a top rope. I was told that there are anchors out there that we could just run a rope through, which obviously isn't the case.
I wouldn't dream of trying to do any setup without having been trained in how to set it up properly.

So, are you an instructor? It might be good to organise something. What would you be looking to charge for a lesson on setting up a top rope etc. Maybe you could show us around Dalkey, where are the best places to climb etc...
What gear would I need to pick up before I try outdoor climbing?

jkl

Odds are you were told about the stake at the top of 'honeypot crack' / 'yorkshire pudding', its a steel spike in the ground with an eye ring at the top, sometimes its used by groups to top-rope, but its not a good idea, loads of rope drag, erosion and if something goes wrong there's no second point to stop you headed for the ground an an uncomfortably fast pace.

I'm not an outdoor instructor (I was an indoor instructor, and i am both trained and an experienced climber). I'd not be looking to charge, its a good excuse for me to get back out on rock (not been out for a few months).

Couple of questions though:
What kind of grade do you climb at?
Do you lead?
What gear do you have?

Once we know how hard / easily you climb i'll be able to show you the best climbs for your ability in the quarry. Gear-wise to start out all you need is a harness and shoes, but to actually set up you'd need a few slings, 5 carabiners (give or take), a suitable rope, and depending on where you're trying to climb, nuts etc.

Sounds good. Well if you need an excuse to get out there im it....

My grade: I would be climbing 6a 6b climbs inside, dont know what the conversion is outside. Is that what you mean by grade?
Do I lead: Never done it before, but I aspire to be someday soon.
Gear: I have a harness, 1 carabiner, 1 belay deice, 50 or 60 (not sure) metre dynamic rope. Shoes.
There is two of us, both more or less at the same level. So if you don't mind showing the two of us that would be cool?

So if that all checks out and you want to head out some fine weekend then let me know or send me a private message with the gear you would suggest we pick up and you contact details etc..
We'll take you out for lunch or a pint or lunch and a pint!!

jkl

I've enough gear to bring out a group of about 10 people, on about 5 ropes, so don't go rushing out to buy gear, have a look at what i have and how its used, ten decide what you'll need.

6a/b indoor is a good solid grade, in general climbing outdoor is easier, far slower and more fun, you'd be looking at climbs in the VS-E1 kind of range, which is good becuase there's loads to choose from.

Will send you on my number now.

Craigsy

jkl wrote: »

6a/b indoor is a good solid grade, in general climbing outdoor is easier, far slower and more fun, you'd be looking at climbs in the VS-E1 kind of range, which is good becuase there's loads to choose from.

Dont go off your indoor grade. For one UCD grades are way overgraded. As well as that climbing outdoors if a completely different ball game. Dont go " well i climb 6a indoors so i'll have a crack at that E1", take things easy to start off with

Enduro

we use natural protection (nuts, cams, hexes etc for lead climbing)

Natural eh! Haven't heard that one before. Does that mean they grow on tress and are picked when ripe, or are they battery farmed using more modern scientific methods to improve on their natural growth cycles?

jkl

Craigsy wrote: »

Dont go off your indoor grade. For one UCD grades are way overgraded. As well as that climbing outdoors if a completely different ball game. Dont go " well i climb 6a indoors so i'll have a crack at that E1", take things easy to start off with

Knowing someones grade in UCD gives a prety good comparison for their outdoor, if you can do a UCD 6a/b you'll have no problem with the strength required for the like of Dirty Dick qnd Tramp, and for something different Little wing E1, and Pauls Edge HVS are both east top ropes, both easier than Tramp.

The likes of frenzy E1 would probably be too tough as its a combination of both strength and technique in a bridge where a toprope would throw off ballance.

Anyhoo the best places to show how to set top ropes would be around paradise : honeypot : charlstown etc, so for that reason alone starting grades usually in the Vdiff / HS range.

After that its very easy to guage someones abillity.

Craigsy

jkl wrote: »

Knowing someones grade in UCD gives a prety good comparison for their outdoor, if you can do a UCD 6a/b you'll have no problem with the strength required for the like of Dirty Dick qnd Tramp, and for something different Little wing E1, and Pauls Edge HVS are both east top ropes, both easier than Tramp.

The likes of frenzy E1 would probably be too tough as its a combination of both strength and technique in a bridge where a toprope would throw off ballance.

Anyhoo the best places to show how to set top ropes would be around paradise : honeypot : charlstown etc, so for that reason alone starting grades usually in the Vdiff / HS range.

After that its very easy to guage someones abillity.

Just saying it because with the way UCD routes are graded, you can knock them down by one or two grades from what they day they are. Also once you get outdoors the hold aren't painted bright pink so it takes a bit of getting used to.