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Ball Phython wont eat because!!!!!

  • #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 11 ✭✭✭ Toesuf


    i have resently (2 weeks ago) bought my first pet snake and have gone through all the steps. she is still not eating and is looking very wrinkly i watched her eat in the pet shop 1 week before i bought her, the man said she should take about a week to ajust to her new surroundings but its 2 weeks now. i think it might be the tempature but im finding it very difficult to keep it between 75 - 85, it would be 85 - 88 during the day but wen his light goes out it drops to 65. What should I do??


Comments



  • Firstly Ball Pythons can be notoriously diffult feeders and personally I wouldnt have bought one as a first snake.

    Now theres a few things you can do.But I doubt its heat related.Ball pythons can go off their food for no reason and honestly theyll go back on it when they feel like lit.

    With regards to temperature what are you using--heatmat,bulbs??

    If its a heat mat make sure its inside the cage and not underneath the outside of it.Ive noticed that my snakes feed better when they can lie directly on the heat mat and most of them will go under it to digest after a meal.

    If youre using a heat bulb--try a larger wattage one.Ive had more success with bulbs in some species than others--ball pythons in particular.For some reason mine prefer heat from above instead of "belly heat"


    Now if this doenst work you can try the "trick" to get them to eat.

    1.Try different coloured food.Buy black mice,gerbils etc.

    2.Scent the food from a lizard--rub the food item on any species of lizard.Ask the shop where youre buying the food to do this for you.It sometimes stimulates the snake into eating.

    3.Split the head of the food item with a knife.The brains often make a snake want to eat.Messy job but these are the joys of snake owning.

    4.If that doesnt work,you may have to force feed the snake.I wont go into that here but if youre in Dublin,Ben in Reptile Haven will do it for you.

    Hope this helps,

    Richie.




  • Hellrazer wrote: »
    If that doesnt work,you may have to force feed the snake.I wont go into that here but if youre in Dublin,Ben in Reptile Haven will do it for you.

    Would a snake actually starve itself?:eek:




  • Hellrazer wrote: »

    3.Split the head of the food item with a knife.The brains often make a snake want to eat.Messy job but these are the joys of snake owning.

    Oh hello breakfast....nice to see you again! :p




  • Hellrazer's advise is very good.
    I would just add; try to ensure that the food is warm and moving the 'prey' infront of the snake can stimulate it. I had a giant tupperware box to feed the snake in, used a long pair of forceps to gentle 'jiggle' the (warmed) mouse.
    Also,
    Is she shedding at the moment? Did her eyes go cloudy/bluish?
    Is she dehydrated? Did you provide a water dish large enough that it can immerse itself in?




  • Would a snake actually starve itself?:eek:


    Ive never actually heard of it happening,Id imagine the feeding response would eventually kick in.

    Captive Pythons have been know to go for 9-12 months without eating a thing and the general thoughts on it are that in the wild they may only see 2-4 meals a year and thats why they respond this way in captivity.


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  • Hey I've had a similar problem and even though bald pythons are tagged as great starter snakes they can be tricky. Have you tried tease feeding her? I'd defo reccommend large tongs coz if she strikes its going to be fast - my one nearly took my finger with it. :)

    What size is her viv? If its too big they get scared easily, also the stress of moving can cause the refuse to eat issue. As exciting as it is getting your first snake - try not handle her till she's gotten used to her new surroundings - a week or so. Hell raiser has some great tips. Another one is to brain the mouse. Its gross but does help. where you cut open the head (just a slit) till the brain is showing. If attempting to tease feed always hold the mouse by the rear so that the python can take it from the head (helps getting the arms and legs down).

    If that fails try live ones (only babies - pinky to fuzzy) and if that doesnt work - Ben from reptile haven can give you loads of tips. Also if you're worried about the heat have you considered a heat mat? They work wonders though ensure that the hide isn't completely in the heat as she'll want to cool off as well.

    Best of luck and enjoy your new pet - they're amaising creatures :)




  • Im having the same problem with a sub adult female I got two weeks ago,she doesnt come out of her hide apart from when I handled her yesterday,Im using a heat mat and bulb durin the day and just the heat mat at night,she has a hide on the warm and cool end too,gonna try that braining trick and see how it goes,I taught she wouldn eat for a month or two because of the move,let us know if yours eats.
    Also should I wait untill she starts coming out of her hides herself before handling her???




  • Sweenox wrote: »
    Im having the same problem with a sub adult female I got two weeks ago,she doesnt come out of her hide apart from when I handled her yesterday,Im using a heat mat and bulb durin the day and just the heat mat at night,she has a hide on the warm and cool end too,gonna try that braining trick and see how it goes,I taught she wouldn eat for a month or two because of the move,let us know if yours eats.
    Also should I wait untill she starts coming out of her hides herself before handling her???


    Sweenox.
    I wouldve thought she`d have settled in now.Are you sure your temps are ok.I shouldve mentioned earlier that Ive had more success with temps on the higher end of the recommended temperatures ie 27-29c and a basking spot of 32 or so.

    Ive always found that an increase in temps will make them more active.People forget that Royals are from Africa where its hot.

    As for the handling--Id start now.If you find that shes more active when youre holding her then your temps are too low so pop a bigger bulb in.

    Mind those teeth though--A Royals bite can bleed like a tap :D:D




  • Ye Ill try a higher temp,her hot side is at 27 and has the heat mat too,she seems to stay on the cool side more,Ill start handling her now like you said,and Ill definitely watch out for the teeth haha




  • All goods tips you got for feeding your royal!but my opinion is hes just settling in!2 weeks isnt that much really without food!hel be grand once he isnt losing any weight!


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  • If the snake is wrinkly looking then it could be going through a shed cycle




  • Demonique wrote: »
    If the snake is wrinkly looking then it could be going through a shed cycle

    +1

    Any chance of a pic, snake and enclosure?




  • thanks for the reply there very good advise iv tried a couple already with no joy,
    she has a heat mat all the time in her tank and her light only during the day. she moves around alot during the day which i was told balls dont realy do that, she finish a shed cycle start to finish the first week i had her so its not that.
    i got used hamster beddin last night so im gonna try that the weekend (wat u think). i think after that live feed is my next step

    ill get a pic up 2




  • just to let u guys now i built the housing myself and the little hides, i was doin more research an i think i need to add more cover ie: branches and fake leaves




  • royals can be a pain in the butt! I was given a female as she would not eat for my friend - she ate once for me then went over 5 months without feeding - I got a large strike feeding male - after 2 weeks of watching him aggressivly strike feed - she is now a strike feeder very rarely misses a meal now.




  • good idea bond-007 but i dont think getting another one is an option for me at the moment. might have to find someone who'll bring theirs over to show mine wat to do




  • she fed it was brilliant, i left her in a smaller feeding box with a live baby hamster and covered it over so it was pitch black. give it about 15 mins an i heard squeeeels, i knew then it happened so i left it for a min not to frighten her. when i looked in she was wrapped around it. it took about 10 mins from head to tail but im just happy she has eaten. :D:D:D




  • Now just try to get her feeding frozen/thawed again.Nothing worse than having a snake that eats only live.

    Good to hear that she ate though.




  • Thats good,mine still hasnt eaten yet for me and still doesnt come out of her hide:mad:




  • Hellrazer
    I know ill be tryin thawed this weekend, see how she does jus for the cost of live, but if it came to it i wouldnt mind live feeding all the time. jus from that 1 feed she has realy thickened up.

    Sweenox
    my advise is get live jus to get ur bp feeding, ull get the hamster or wat ever u get in a small box put that whole thing in the snakes house for the day, make sure it dosent chew tru the box, later that night put ur bp and the prey into a box with about 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 feet floor space, cover the hole thing so its pitch back an leave it for a couple of hours if u need too. jus stay in the room so you can keep an ear on it. the prey can become defensive an bite the snake or you will hear the prey squeel :D:)


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  • If the snake wont eat frozen - sounds awful but try freshly killed animals - the most humane way to kill an animal is to use Co2 gas to kill the animal - then feed it immediately to your snake.

    Most royals are sadly wild caught - so they have to learn to eat dead - then defrosted animals.




  • Toesuf wrote: »
    Hellrazer
    I know ill be tryin thawed this weekend, see how she does jus for the cost of live, but if it came to it i wouldnt mind live feeding all the time. jus from that 1 feed she has realy thickened up.



    A trapped rodent can do horrendous damage to a snake.You see in the wild a rodent can back away or run from the snake but in captivity a rodent under threat of being eaten in a cornered situation will fight tooth and claw for its survival.

    A friend of mine lost a large Royal to a cornered rat.You want to see the damage that was done to the snake.


    Its all well and good when its a pinkie but when you have a large adult royal thats eating large rats then you are going to have an injured snake.

    Just remember "I told you so" when it does happen and believe me it wll happen.




  • leopardus wrote: »
    Hellrazer's advise is very good.
    I would just add; try to ensure that the food is warm and moving the 'prey' infront of the snake can stimulate it. I had a giant tupperware box to feed the snake in, used a long pair of forceps to gentle 'jiggle' the (warmed) mouse.
    Also,
    Is she shedding at the moment? Did her eyes go cloudy/bluish?
    Is she dehydrated? Did you provide a water dish large enough that it can immerse itself in?

    I had a ball python about 16 yrs ago and she was bad to feed. In England your not allowed feed live, only dead, which meant getting frozen. I found it helped to tease her and also to get the pinky warm first.

    Was engaged to OH at the time and I sat him down and made him close eye's - as I had something to "show" him. I put the snake on his chests and when he opened his eye's he totally freaked - ha ha ha Still makes me laugh.




  • Gorgeous Snake but you probably need a few more hides


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