Anyone been to Colombia recently?

Eurorunner

3 years in the making (putting it off for various reasons), I've finally booked my flight for Colombia for the month of June.

Have not done much trip research yet but my very basic plan thus far was to base myself in Santa Marta as its a nice spot - and also a launchpad for trips to other places.

Interested in doing something active...paragliding, mountain climbing...stuff like that. Anyone done anything like that there - or any other suggestions in this regard?

Can I assume theres a good network of ATM's in the regional centres?

shrapnel222

how long are you going for? santa marta is nice, but personally i think cartagena is 100 times better. from santa marta you have basically ciudad perdida and tirona national park and that's about it i think. Are you not going to do the cities? bogota, medellin and cali? also down south is san agustin popayan and all the pre incan sites. There really is tons to do so having a base up north is not going to open your options.

Eurorunner

@shrapnel: Thanks for the feedback.

I have got 4 weeks. Havnt even started to do some trip research (like i did for all of my other long haul trips in the past) so very unsure what i'm doing right now.

I have heard its quiet alright....do need to get a balance of stuff going on. Too long in somewhere too quiet and familiarity breeds contempt. Thats why I was looking for an activity like paragliding or something like that ....would provide an interesting distraction.

Is m'bike hire a possilibity for tourists? I know in asia, we just took off on bikes half the time - just made up our own trips into the wilds - was awesome. Perhaps its not an option ...or is there a safety problem (ie. bike likely to get nicked?)...

cluelessx2

We were there for a month at Christmas - really loved it, you'll have a great time. We went to Cartagena, nice, but not all that. Didn't stay in Santa Marta, stayed instead in Taganga - a place that gets mixed reviews but we really liked it. We stayed in Casa Felipe, best hostel in the country. Ciudad Perdia can be done from here. Parque Nacional Tayrona is lovely, well worth a couple of nights. Then we went to Cali, Feria de Cali was on so the place was manic. Couldn't tell you what the place is like normally. Medillin is lovely, you can paraglide there, we didn't, but it looked good. We then went back south to Salento and spent a few days there. (I know, unusual route, but we had to be in Medillin for a wedding). Really nice, there you can mountain bike, horse ride, hike, or just drink coffee. (Good coffee).

ATMs are widespread, even in small towns like Salento. You can pay with credit card for stuff as well, no hassle. There's nothing quiet about Colombia. I'm not sure that I'd stay in any one region for the month, it's very cheap to fly (not a whole lot more expensive than to get the bus and you save so much time and hassle) so very easy to get around. A month in Colombia will just about scratch the surface. Or at least that's what we found. I want to go back for another month. At least. Buen viaje.

Oh, btw, do you speak any spanish? While you'll manage without, Colombia is a lot easier to negotiate if you even have a small bit.

shrapnel222

when i went there i crossed in from ecuador on foot so i had a natural route to take. south to north. it also is usually my preferred route- start inland and finish off on the coast for a relaxing last week. I also had a bit more time and did everything by bus, but i know you can get a 3 or 4 flight deal with the colombian airline. It's been a while since i went, but i'm sure there's more adventure activities than there were when i went. As for picking up a bike and going off, i'd say that would be very dependent on where you were. some places would be a definite nono

Eurorunner

Thanks lads. Have not a word of Spainish - albeit that I'm aware i'm in for difficulties on that front in South America ....hope it doesn't become too much of a frustration!

Must invest some hours on tripadvisor and thorntree - and do some reading up and maybe pickup a lonely planet...always useful to have at hand.

cluelessx2

Footprint have a new guide out for Colombia that looks good. Avoid Bradt - well we hated it. At least learn your numbers. It always helps to at least be able to talk money! We learned our spanish on the road in South America so while our grammer is appalling, we can speak about what we need to speak about (well, mas o menos)

Eurorunner

Do you rate Footprint over Lonely Planet?
Don't like the rough guides...and did use another alternative one the last big trip (can't remember the series it belonged to) but it wasnt as good..

cluelessx2

It depends on the destination. For South America, then yes, Footprints, imo, are the way to go. We had both and always preferred Footprint. LP has it's plus-es, but FP has more.

RATM

I'll add +1 to that recommendation for Casa Felipe in Taganga just a few miles from Santa Marta. Felipe's wife is hot:D And its a cool hostel to stay in, you can go down to the waterfront in the evening, buy some fresh fish from the fishermen and then take it back to the hostel to cook it on the BBQ> Sweet!

OP don't miss out on the mud volcano just a few miles outside Cartegena, one of the best things to do in Colombia IMO.

NextSteps

What's Bogota like? I'm going to be there for a week in August for work and am wondering whether to take a few days to explore the city and surroundings. I'm a girl travelling on my own - would I be mad, or should I perhaps join something organised?

All advice appreciated!

RATM

Bogota is well worth a couple of days. Whether you do it on your own or not depends on how comfortable you are about travelling alone. Are you street wise?, etc.
Id say Bogota is nowhere near as dangerous for a tourist as peoples perception of it is. But if you are a drug runner in one of the suburbs then its a heck of a dangerous place. It's pretty rare any of that stuff spills over into the nicer areas, just the same way most of the drugs killings in Dublin or Limerick happen in the same suburbs the same is true of Bogota.

That said I wouldn't venture too far away from your hostel after dark as a single female. But during daylight hours it feels fine. A lot of the hostels in Bogota are in the University district so its often possible you'll meet Colombians of your own age ( in the local student pubs )who want to practice their english in exchange for a free tour of their city.

cluelessx2

Just stay in one of the hostels, Platypus or Sue or one of those in La Candeleria and you will meet many more lone travellers.

cailinoBAC

I'm so jealous of you going to Colombia soon! I just got back from my South America trip a few days ago. Colombia was definitely one of the highlights. Unfortunately I was only there for 10 days. Cartagena is the most beautiful city in South America. I also highly recommend the Ciudad Perdida trek near Santa Marta. Unfortunately didn't have enough time for Tayrona, just spent some time at Taganga, which doesn't exactly have the best beaches but nice and chilled out.

Eurorunner

cailinoBAC wrote: »

I'm so jealous of you going to Colombia soon! I just got back from my South America trip a few days ago. Colombia was definitely one of the highlights. Unfortunately I was only there for 10 days. Cartagena is the most beautiful city in South America. I also highly recommend the Ciudad Perdida trek near Santa Marta. Unfortunately didn't have enough time for Tayrona, just spent some time at Taganga, which doesn't exactly have the best beaches but nice and chilled out.

Hi there cailinoBAC. How much time would you have preferred to give to Ciudad Perdida? What exactly is good about it (have read everywhere that its 'good' but just want to make sure its 'good' for me as its all in the eyes of the beholder!).

Again, how much time would you have preferred to devote to Tayrona?

Last question - did you do anything active? By that I mean something like paragliding (which im considering). I'm trying to get some ideas - as I'm not one for sitting on a beach for the duration.

Anyone taking a boat trip down the orinoco??

RATM

Eurorunner wrote: »

Hi there cailinoBAC. How much time would you have preferred to give to Ciudad Perdida? What exactly is good about it (have read everywhere that its 'good' but just want to make sure its 'good' for me as its all in the eyes of the beholder!).

iirc the Cuidad Perida trek is a 6 day event- 3 days in and 3 out. The Lost City itself is nothing really spectactular ( Machu Pichu it ain't ) but the jungle and mountain scenery, river crossings, etc on the way there more than make up for it. If you have a good guide you'll also get to visit a 'cocaine factory' along the way. It is a good trek and what made if for me was the journey itself more so than the destination.
Eurorunner do you scuba? Thats also available in the Santa Marta/Taganga area. Im not sure about paragliding though maybe they do have it somewhere.

Eurorunner

RATM wrote: »

iirc the Cuidad Perida trek is a 6 day event- 3 days in and 3 out. The Lost City itself is nothing really spectactular ( Machu Pichu it ain't ) but the jungle and mountain scenery, river crossings, etc on the way there more than make up for it. If you have a good guide you'll also get to visit a 'cocaine factory' along the way.

Ok, had read a bit about this - so have it penciled in. If its all about the natural side of things, will I get hacked off with more 'natural' stuff if I do Tayrona? Or is it good in the same respect but still different if that makes any sense? I like to mix up my trips - a few days on the beer/nightlife somewhere followed by trips similar to these two above.

RATM wrote: »

Eurorunner do you scuba?

Unfortunately, I don't...even more basic than that, not even a good swimmer.

RATM wrote: »

Im not sure about paragliding though maybe they do have it somewhere.

I had read somewhere that theres a place outside Medellin that do it. Need to do a bit more reading up.

RATM

Eurorunner wrote: »

Ok, had read a bit about this - so have it penciled in. If its all about the natural side of things, will I get hacked off with more 'natural' stuff if I do Tayrona? Or is it good in the same respect but still different if that makes any sense? I like to mix up my trips - a few days on the beer/nightlife somewhere followed by trips similar to these two above.

I cant comment on Tayrona as we didn't go- we had intended to but after 6 days of traipsing through the jungle on the Lost City trek we had enough of nature and just wanted to chill in Taganga instead, specifically Casa Felipe as we had met a few people there who were good to hang out with.

That said Im sure Tayrona is nice, you just have to ask yourself how much of your 1 month holiday do you want to spend in the wild and how much near civilisation. The other cities in Colombia -Bogota, Cali, Medillin and especially Cartgena are also well worth a look so Id advise that you try to leave some time to see at least two of them.

There is paragliding in Colombia, heres the first result Google threw up. Its in Bucaramanga and seems like a good operation but there are others available too.
http://colombiaparagliding.com/

cailinoBAC

Ciudad Perdida is officially 6 days, but a lot of people do it in 5, even 4. However just because you sign up for fewer days doesn't mean you'll get it. One guy in our group had signed up for 5 days, the rest of us for 6. We decided we'd all go for 5, but then were told on the 4th night that much d have to do it in 6! What I really enjoyed about it was that it was so much more relaxed than the inca trail for example. Also, yes, the city may not be as visually impressive as Machu Picchu, but I liked it and it was a lot less claustrophobic, as you had the place to yourself - there were no daytrippers coming up on the train. The river crossings were a bit scary on the way back, as it had rained a lot and the river was very high, but it was a rush. When we were up at the camp a lot of the soldiers were hanging around. Apparently a helicopter was supposed to bring their food and hadn't so they were looking for our leftovers. Some of the guys got to pose with the guns (I was taking the photos and just hoped the safety was well on!). We didn't have tents, they had shelters, so you had somewhere to hang out even when it was pouring rain (which it often was). There was the option of going to a cocaine factory on the last morning, but none of us were really bothered. You had to pay some money and get up an hour earlier.

As for Tayrona, we didn't actually go there. With the days we had left we decided to go to Taganga instead. It's fun, but the beaches on Tayrona are supposed to be better. But we felt we needed at least 3 days for that.

We didn't have any time for anything else. We'd already been paragliding in Merida, in Venezuela. Are you going to Venezuela if you're talking about the Orinoco? Not that I did that.

cluelessx2

2 nights in Tayrona is just right. That's what we found anyway.

San Gil is probably worth looking at for activities, it seems to be a backpacker haven for whitewater rafting, biking etc. Didn't go though so can't comment.

RATM

cailinoBAC wrote: »

Ciudad Perdida is officially 6 days, but a lot of people do it in 5, even 4. However just because you sign up for fewer days doesn't mean you'll get it. One guy in our group had signed up for 5 days, the rest of us for 6. We decided we'd all go for 5, but then were told on the 4th night that much d have to do it in 6! What I really enjoyed about it was that it was so much more relaxed than the inca trail for example. Also, yes, the city may not be as visually impressive as Machu Picchu, but I liked it and it was a lot less claustrophobic, as you had the place to yourself - there were no daytrippers coming up on the train. The river crossings were a bit scary on the way back, as it had rained a lot and the river was very high, but it was a rush.

Eurorunner thats is a good review of the trek. Not as stunning as the Inca Trail but you'll have the joy of meeting few (if any) other tourists along the way.
Depending on how fit you are I would'nt advise going for a 4 day option, it isn't the most difficult of treks but some parts can get quite muddy and that makes it a long hard slog. 6 days is just the perfect time for it IMO but I suppose it could just as easily be done in 5.

Also if you are going to Cartegena (recommended) make sure you don't miss out on the mud volcano on its outskirts. You can jump right in to the mud and you won't be able to sink into the volcano whatsoever, the mud keeps you afloat and it is at a very pleasant temperature.Absolute class :cool:

shrapnel222

RATM wrote: »

Also if you are going to Cartegena (recommended) make sure you don't miss out on the mud volcano on its outskirts. You can jump right in to the mud and you won't be able to sink into the volcano whatsoever, the mud keeps you afloat and it is at a very pleasant temperature.Absolute class :cool:

and you'll find little mud souvenirs long after you've come home in the weirdest of places:p

cailinoBAC

Oh, another thing I really enjoyed on the Ciudad Perdida trek was the amount of places we could go swimming. Really nice when you've been trekking in the heat for a few hours.

It's funny since I've come back, the reactions I get when I tell people my favourite place in SA was Colombia. So many people still think it's all drugs and kidnapping.

duffmann

San Gil is worth a look. I was there in March. Lots of outdoor stuff there.

Its also halfway between Bogota and Santa Marta.

Eurorunner

RATM wrote: »

you just have to ask yourself how much of your 1 month holiday do you want to spend in the wild and how much near civilisation.

Yes, will have to mix it up. Familiarity breeds contempt as they say.

RATM wrote: »

There is paragliding in Colombia, heres the first result Google threw up. Its in Bucaramanga and seems like a good operation but there are others available too.
http://colombiaparagliding.com/

Thanks for the link - have come across info of a few different places now so should be able to sort somthing out.

CailinoBAC wrote:

yes, the city may not be as visually impressive as Machu Picchu, but I liked it and it was a lot less claustrophobic, as you had the place to yourself - there were no daytrippers coming up on the train.

Thats good then - prefer to follow the road less travelled!

Cluelessx2 wrote:

San Gil is probably worth looking at for activities, it seems to be a backpacker haven for whitewater rafting, biking etc.

duffmann wrote:

San Gil is worth a look. I was there in March. Lots of outdoor stuff there.
Its also halfway between Bogota and Santa Marta.

Yes, between comments here and what i've been reading - San Gil is penciled in. Makes sense as it breaks up the journey to SM.

CailinoBAC wrote:

Are you going to Venezuela if you're talking about the Orinoco?

No plans to really - temptation is to go crossing borders when theres more than enough to check out closer to hand for the time I have. Was considering Orinoco - as in the Colombian side (as it forms the border) - had read some stuff about boat trips but I think I will wait till I get there to decide on anything for the last 2 weeks of my trip.

Any accommodation recommendations for BOG?

NextSteps

I bought 2 guidebooks to Colombia (Lonely Planet and Footprint), but have since changed my plans. I will pop them in the post to whoever PMs me first.

Eurorunner

UB wrote: »

I bought 2 guidebooks to Colombia (Lonely Planet and Footprint), but have since changed my plans. I will pop them in the post to whoever PMs me first.

Got the Footprint one - its quite good and very recent (Must have only went to print in Jan. I think). The new LP is due to be out round now..but I would have been well happy to take your copy off ye was it not for the fact that I fly Sunday!

RATM

Eurorunner wrote: »

Got the Footprint one - its quite good and very recent (Must have only went to print in Jan. I think). The new LP is due to be out round now..but I would have been well happy to take your copy off ye was it not for the fact that I fly Sunday!

We'll all look forward to your report over in the Travel Reviews forum when you get back

Have a super trip and if you end up staying in Casa Felipe in Taganga give Felipe's wife a cheeky wink from me :pac:

Eurorunner

Thanks everyone for your input on this thread - was useful. I got back earlier this week.

Heres the circuit I took over 1 month;

Bogota => San Gil => Bucaramanga => Santa Marta => Cartagena => Medellin => Armenia => Cali => San Agustin => Neiva => Bogota.

Got my tandem paraglide in ...in Medellin. One of the trip highlights for sure ...and I was tempted to do the course (10 hours over 1 week for €400) but didn't want to be tied down to the one spot. Like to move the moment I get restless. The climate in Bogota and Medellin was great. Couldnt handle the coast (the heat) and did not take to Santa Marta at all...just wanted to get the hell out of there! Cartagena was great - although I followed the advise of most ...that its not worth spending more than a couple of days in (i left it at an overnight).
In terms of spectacular bus trips, the drive from San Gil to Bucaramanga was fabulous. As was the drive from Popayan to San Agustin (albeit that it got well cold!). Tended to take night buses otherwise as wanted to arrive in places in daylight. Whats up with this colombian policy of trying to aircon passengers to death at night!!? Only gripe I would have in that regard as bus stations are well organised with frequent services and buses are brill as regards big comfy reclining seats with loads of leg room ..not forgetting the movies and the convenience of food vendors traipsing through the bus at every stop!
In terms of safety, found it safe as houses during the daytime but a different story at night. You have to be switched on at all times - but generally not to a point where it spoilt things. Certain places worse than others. eg. La Candelaria in Bogota (when you see auld fellas out walking with slash hooks for self protection, well tells its own story!) and Cali - which has a well deserved reputation. Was warned a couple of times to get the hell out of areas in Bogota. Between police, army and private security, I've never seen a place with such a security presence...there were literally thousands of them.
Did a spot of horse treking in San Agustin - was a good place to chill out in and being rural, it was the place I felt most secure in. Nice cold beer at 60 cents a pop (my poor liver!). Generally, everything worked out about a third of our prices. 3 star hotel standard worked out at between 10 and 15 euro a night.
Had been well prep'ed for it beforehand but Spanish did turn out to be an issue as hardly anybody speaks english. However, I don't mean that it bothered me in terms of getting stuff sorted, organising buses, hotels, activities, food/drink etc. Its just that there were no interesting long conversations with the locals. Still, if anyone wants to learn spanish, this is the place to go. The vocabulary I developed over the space of a month surprised me (even if its all gone into short term memory).