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Plaster between roof tiles & facia on gable breaking off

  • 30-04-2009 9:19pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 72 ✭✭


    On the gable ends of my 2 story house between the roof tiles and the facia there is a ridge of plaster about 2-3" wide running the length of the gable. Firstly anyone know what thats called?

    The house is 30 years old and I notice that this plaster is now cracking and becoming lose and will soon fall away so I need to get it repaired. I presume if I had wooden facia I could nail some casing to it, remove the old plaster / cement and just fill it up. Unfortunately I have PVC facias so I presume that not a runner. Anyone give me an idea of the best way to go about the repair.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    Hi,

    Verge or gable detail are probably the most common terms used.

    There is usually a slate that goes from under the laths across the top of the facia to support the sand/cement detail.

    The right way to fix it is to remove the tiles and the pointing and re-set the verge, however that is rarely done due to cost sometimes because people don't know how.

    It is not unusual to see parts of the verge pointed, some will make a thin coat of sand / cement stick over the existing cement this is not worth the time or the money because it will fall off in a short time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    I dont know two much about this area but this happened to mine so based on a book this is what I done

    I bought a bag of sand cement/some PVA / Colour, mine is red

    The bag is 2,5 kilos so the mix was roughly

    2.5 kg sand cement
    2 cups of pva
    1 cup of red die


    Its still holding....... that was 2 years ago.

    I also mixed the red die with water and painted it on the rest of the cement to make it all blend.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    The roof tends to move a lot due to extremes of heat and cold, The best product for this application is called Flexim, it is a type of putty that goes on soft and hardens up when exposed to air.
    It comes in black, red and maybe some other colours.
    It is not cheap but it is good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 72 ✭✭kopykat


    PeteHeat wrote: »
    Hi,

    "Verge or gable detail are probably the most common terms used".
    Thanks couldnt figure out what it was called.


    "There is usually a slate that goes from under the laths across the top of the facia to support the sand/cement detail".

    Unfortunately there is no slate, nothing to support the sand/cement, its flush with the facia. Its difficult to fill because its a hollow space and nothing for the cement to grip and because it flush with tile and facia (white) its hard to finish. I have already replaced about a foot last year and it wasnt easy, just managed to patch it. Problem is the whole lot is starting to go, its just the effect of weathering over time.

    Its no good patching this, I need a get it all replaced but if doing that I want to make sure that a proper job is done, how to best tackle it and best materials to use.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    Oh I apologise it sounds more serious then my rec's have you any good pictures to post!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    Hi kopykat,

    While I am a firm believer in Flexim for the verge it is not really suitable for your job.

    I know the detail you have described it was not used very much mainly because of the extra cost to the builder.

    There is no easy way to fix it, first thing I would do is check the type of tile on the roof the reasons are:

    That detail was usually used with CPI tiles some of which are hard to source, I'm not sure why as CPI didn't specify it as far as I know.

    While the concrete may be breaking away in places I can assure you it is firmly bonded to some of the tiles which will break when you try to remove / clean them.

    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 72 ✭✭kopykat


    PeteHeat wrote: »
    Hi kopykat,

    While I am a firm believer in Flexim for the verge it is not really suitable for your job.

    I know the detail you have described it was not used very much mainly because of the extra cost to the builder.

    There is no easy way to fix it, first thing I would do is check the type of tile on the roof the reasons are:

    That detail was usually used with CPI tiles some of which are hard to source, I'm not sure why as CPI didn't specify it as far as I know.

    While the concrete may be breaking away in places I can assure you it is firmly bonded to some of the tiles which will break when you try to remove / clean them.

    .

    Thanks Pete but I'm afraid there wouldnt appear to be any bonding to the tiles, it crumbling and cracking. I had another look at it yesterday and the minute I put the ladder against it,the I whole strip from the bottom to the top of the gable moved, its only barely staying there. I'd say I'll have to remove it all and get it replaced and re pointed. Wont be an easy job as its a 2 story detached, working off a ladder, dont think I'd tackle it myself, it would be too big a job for me as I would be vey slow. House it 30 years old and that combined with weathering looks like it has taken its toll on the mortar. Also noticed bits of mortar on the roof so I'm guessing probably from under the ridge tiles. Anyone know whats the best mix to replace this mortar, sand / cement / mortiser etc. so I know what should be used. If I get this done I want it done right to last another 30 years and see me out!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27 Kricket


    Hi KopyKat,
    Firstly you take off the old render if its that loose , then put on Riblath this is to hold the new plinth in place comes in half or three quarter inch depending on slate or tile roof and makes it very easy to point up eaves not a big job


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19 GregSlates


    kopykat wrote: »
    Thanks Pete but I'm afraid there wouldnt appear to be any bonding to the tiles, it crumbling and cracking. I had another look at it yesterday and the minute I put the ladder against it,the I whole strip from the bottom to the top of the gable moved, its only barely staying there. I'd say I'll have to remove it all and get it replaced and re pointed. Wont be an easy job as its a 2 story detached, working off a ladder, dont think I'd tackle it myself, it would be too big a job for me as I would be vey slow. House it 30 years old and that combined with weathering looks like it has taken its toll on the mortar. Also noticed bits of mortar on the roof so I'm guessing probably from under the ridge tiles. Anyone know whats the best mix to replace this mortar, sand / cement / mortiser etc. so I know what should be used. If I get this done I want it done right to last another 30 years and see me out!

    Hey Kopykat, I am a roofer, I literally just joined, think its a cool site and want to help you out. Over time and exposure to the elements your bed of mortar on the ridge and between the verge has perished. You need to replace it. The ridge as it can cause the most problems if water penetrates them(water will run down the felt and if there are holes in felt or Velux windows cut in then you'll have leaks.) So your mix for ridge and verge is as follows (hire a mixer, trust me)
    4 parts mortar sand
    1 part cement
    half cup of waterproofer
    appropriate colour cement dye to be 10% of the weight of cement
    e.g to a cement mixer you will add one 40 kilo bag of sand and one half of a 25 kilo bag of cement

    Do it this way, i'm ten years at it now and this way rules
    In bucket gently fold half bag(12.5kilo) cement with 1 kilo cement dye, leave stand, to mixer add 1 litre water and half cup waterproofer, then add sand, then add cement mix. You are looking for it to have a consitency like cottage cheese, add about 1 litre more of water to achieve but use what i told you(tip: scoop some onto trowel and turn trowel upside down, if it stays for 10 seconds your getting it right) if you add too much water and its slop add more cement to thicken.

    Do verge first, you need a roof ladder which can be hired. Remove one tile off every course at end, start at top and work down, this will expose the end of the Batten. You need an undercloak, Its an artificial slate. Two packs should do, remove nail in end of batten and place undercloak black side down under the batten, overhang it 50mm past your pvc facia and fix to rafter, replace nail in batten, do this up all verge. Now start at bottom and then scoop sausage shape of cement and place on undercloak towards edge(it wants to be heaped enough that you are squashing it down when you place tile) place tile, and smooth off, if its not flush out with tile you can now add to it, it can be slanted to undercloak which by what you describe it might, no harm, we are just filling a void, repeat up all verge.
    Now off with ridge and clean off old crap. then lay ridge and mark where it will sit by scratching with trowel along side of ridge, remove ridge. With trowel and scooping motion along side of bucket scoop cement like a sausage and place on marked tile, lay tile, level, scrape excess then smooth with back of trowel. Mark next ridge position, build sausages of cement up to end of previous ridge for joining next ridge and cement marked tile, lay ridge, tap end towards the joint to seal, remove excess, smooth. You should have a 1 inch joint between two ridge, and repeat for each ridge.
    Think positive, visualise what i described and study, its not easy but not rocket science:confused: allow one day for verges and one for ridging, use ladders and be safe, have someone with you for safety, Good Luck.:rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 74 ✭✭tippgaafan


    Gregslates,

    Where do you purchase your undercloak ?
    I have tried several bulider providers with no success. They have plenty of trims etc for slates, but nothing for tiles..
    Thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    Hi,

    Undercloaking is usually a fibre cement slate that is fitted between the slating / tiling lath and the facia.

    The slate is often cut in half (150mm wide 300mm long) usually overhangs the facia by 50mm.

    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19 GregSlates


    Yep Peter has it. Any builder provider should have cement fibre slate, then half it and overhang it past the facia so the mortar can sit. But it will be 150mm by 600mm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    Hi Greg,

    I stand corrected ;) perhaps I can be forgiven as I always referred to fibre cement slates as 24" x 12" old habits die hard and mental arithmatic is not what it once was :D

    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 adamblaiklock


    Hi all,

    Not sure if anyone will see this as it's an old posting. I have just found out that our roof requires the tiles reopointing due to wear and tear. What would be the general cost be in getting this done?

    Many thanks

    Adam


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