Fiat 110-90

adne

Thinking of buying a second hand 110-90 or else a 100-90. Is there much difference between the years 92 - 99?
Is there anything i should look for?

greener1

I think that from 94 onwards the cabs were galvanised pre that they were prone to rust on the sill, doors and mud guards. buy the 110 90, better to be looking at it that for it.(hp that is)

leitrim lad

either way they both are a good tractor, but the 110 90 would be better power wise i have a 90 90 dt mighty tractor i do the wrapping with it ,and hedge cutting, maybe a little hard on diesel ,but what fiat isnt , and true from 93/95 they made big changes to the body work,

but they are ment to be the best geared tractor you can buy from that era, and beleive it or not i prefer the 90 90dt which is a 1992 ,to my john deere 6210 , the fiat would eat it alive,

i sprayed her up last winter and tightened her up a bit like brand new now

greener1

I've 90 90 aswell great tractor. done her up this winter as well but can't get side panells.
drove a 100hp 42 series mf last week with 6t of stone very dissapointed nearly got bet on a hill that the fiat would eat.

leitrim lad

ya the massey has failed to get my vote since i had the misfortune of owning a 699t, was lucky enough to trade it in for a same a few years ago, needed and engine and a backend, and the cab was rotten,

90 90 is fantastic no doubt about it, are you on about the bonnet side panels, mine was in good enough condition so i washed them and gave them a light sand and a few coates of paint ,i got the local signwriting fella to do up the stickers ,and she looks as origional as you will ever get,

my bonnet wasnt hit by the rust but i had a lot of cutten and welding to do on the back mudgaurds,

the new landinis are very similar to the new masseys aswell, but the clutch in the landini is very soft, the old fella bought a landini new ,had to get a new clutch after it was recalled to brogans, 2 months old

greener1

ya the side bonnet panels, can get them new at a price one is e700 + vat and the other is e500 + vat and i'm not spending that kind of money. folded up a pair of back mud guards and welded them in, probable will make new panels some time as well.
Has your 90 90 got a trailer brake?

Joeman1

Just bought one at the weekend.Anyone know what loader is best suited or where to source one.Great tractor,

adne

where did u buy joeman.... i am still trying to source one at the right price

GERMAN ROCKS

did you buy a 110-90 or a 90-90. tell us all eg age hours, turboed etc

Joeman1

its a 1993 90-90 non turbo 7000 hrs ,we drove it 100 miles back no bother.

fig mclough

Riddell Bros has 2 nice ones!!! they look mint if anyone intersted!!

scudster

The 110-90 is a great bit of kit. Been drivin them every summer for the last 11 years or so. If you're lookin for a good one you will pay a hansome price.
As they are fairly reliable even a roughish one wouldnt be a terrible thing compaired to some other yoke of similar age condition.
When driving without a load floor the throttle. It should take off like a bat out of hell and with minimal smoke. If not, possible injectors/injector pump needs a bit of work. This will generally dictate how much work it has done or if its been maintained well.
Gear selectors are prone to breaking due to the long gear sticks. This should be apparent if its hard to find gears or if it slips out of gear. This is fairly major surgery. Cab needs to be removed completely and backend and gearbox split to remedy the problem.
Front axle planetary gears in the wheel hubs can cause some problems. This will be evident one of the front wheels locks up momenteraly. Not to hard to fix.
On the 4WD shaft check that the splined sleeves and shafts are in decent nick and all circlips are present. These can come loose and damage shafts. Also check that it isnt too dificult to engage/disengage 4WD.
Try and avoid the lift arms with quick attach. The latches dont stand up to much abuse.
Cab interior/flimsey doors can deteriorate if not looked after.
Avoid anything pre 1990. Bad tin work and older 100-90/110-90 have a terrible steering lock and are fairly heavy to operate.
Breaks can leak oil. This should be evident if the breaks are spongey and the break warning light comes on. Had some close one with this but a second pump of the breaks should get you out of immediate danger.
Back wheel dishes crack from stud holes outwards and I have seen a half-shaft shear off completely :eek:. Listen for creaks when driving.
You may never see any of these but keep them in mind when viewing or driving one.
And good luck with your future purchace!

adne

scudster wrote: »

The 110-90 is a great bit of kit. Been drivin them every summer for the last 11 years or so. If you're lookin for a good one you will pay a hansome price.
As they are fairly reliable even a roughish one wouldnt be a terrible thing compaired to some other yoke of similar age condition.
When driving without a load floor the throttle. It should take off like a bat out of hell and with minimal smoke. If not, possible injectors/injector pump needs a bit of work. This will generally dictate how much work it has done or if its been maintained well.
Gear selectors are prone to breaking due to the long gear sticks. This should be apparent if its hard to find gears or if it slips out of gear. This is fairly major surgery. Cab needs to be removed completely and backend and gearbox split to remedy the problem.
Front axle planetary gears in the wheel hubs can cause some problems. This will be evident one of the front wheels locks up momenteraly. Not to hard to fix.
On the 4WD shaft check that the splined sleeves and shafts are in decent nick and all circlips are present. These can come loose and damage shafts. Also check that it isnt too dificult to engage/disengage 4WD.
Try and avoid the lift arms with quick attach. The latches dont stand up to much abuse.
Cab interior/flimsey doors can deteriorate if not looked after.
Avoid anything pre 1990. Bad tin work and older 100-90/110-90 have a terrible steering lock and are fairly heavy to operate.
Breaks can leak oil. This should be evident if the breaks are spongey and the break warning light comes on. Had some close one with this but a second pump of the breaks should get you out of immediate danger.
Back wheel dishes crack from stud holes outwards and I have seen a half-shaft shear off completely :eek:. Listen for creaks when driving.
You may never see any of these but keep them in mind when viewing or driving one.
And good luck with your future purchace!

cheers for this very informative post scudster.... hard to source a good one close to 10 k as opposed to close to 20 k

scudster

adne wrote: »

cheers for this very informative post scudster.... hard to source a good one close to 10 k as opposed to close to 20 k

You are welcome.

It will be hard to get a good one at 10k. That is for sure. I used to see ones being used at a few different road works sites about the country. I think some road construction contractors used them to sweep roads and nice hand work like that so keep your eyes peeled as they might be getting sold off in these recessionary times.
They are like hens teeth! No doubt about it. Its probably worth looking for one in the UK as well as here but they quite scarce over there too.

adne

anyone know much about the FIAT TRACTOR 82 / 94 .... would it be up to pulling a 7.5 tonne machine??

adne

scudster wrote: »

You are welcome.

It will be hard to get a good one at 10k. That is for sure. I used to see ones being used at a few different road works sites about the country. I think some road construction contractors used them to sweep roads and nice hand work like that so keep your eyes peeled as they might be getting sold off in these recessionary times.
They are like hens teeth! No doubt about it. Its probably worth looking for one in the UK as well as here but they quite scarce over there too.

Bought a 92 100-90 at weekend, little bit of rust on doors but engine wise seems ok

maidhc

adne wrote: »

cheers for this very informative post scudster.... hard to source a good one close to 10 k as opposed to close to 20 k

No doubt they are a good tractor, but close to 20k?!? No disrespect but someone who spends 20k on any tractor that is going to be 15 years old is stone mad.

10k seems like loads!

adne

maidhc wrote: »

No disrespect but someone who spends 20k on any tractor that is going to be 15 years old is stone mad.

10k seems like loads!

New Holland were still making them until 2002... 7 years old

maidhc

adne wrote: »

New Holland were still making them until 2002... 7 years old

Ah yes. I did see a blue one at a ploughing match once! I guess a 2000ish with reasonable hours would be worth 20k alright.

leitrim lad

yip they made them up to 2003 in blue with new holland or fiatagri, or ford wrote on the side of them and i hope you got a real god one for that kinda money cos i know of a tm150 for sale 2005 for 17,000

and thats the way the market is gone, however the fiat is a better tractor, than the new holland, if you get my drift

scudster

adne wrote: »

Bought a 92 100-90 at weekend, little bit of rust on doors but engine wise seems ok

Congrats buddy! Best of luck with her. Yea, the doors can be a bit rubbish alright. Post a few pics of her.

bk1991

know a guy who bought a newholland 110-90 a 03 one for near 30 k like new condition but the 110-90 is a lovely tractor its wort the money over the newer models

bk1991

Donegal09

leitrim lad wrote: »

yip they made them up to 2003 in blue with new holland or fiatagri, or ford wrote on the side of them and i hope you got a real god one for that kinda money cos i know of a tm150 for sale 2005 for 17,000

and thats the way the market is gone, however the fiat is a better tractor, than the new holland, if you get my drift

bought a 110-90 brand new back in 04. seen an 05 about too , great tractor , not alot of bother , hitch wouldnt be great , wears alot and i have a dromone ordered. awful roar off it . not silencer just a straight pipe.

fiatman

adne wrote: »

anyone know much about the FIAT TRACTOR 82 / 94 .... would it be up to pulling a 7.5 tonne machine??

i think it would i pull a 12ton with the 110-90

The Nutty M

Watch out for a 97 KE 110-90 that has a 130 engine in her.2 and a half weeks of solid work converting it,well worth it at the end. And as for half shafts breaking,one broke on me 5years ago as I was slowing down for traffic lights in a town.Pretty sight indeed.Only other thing I can think of that hasn't been mentioned by scudster is watch the panes of glass in the doors,do not let anyone lean up against them from the inside or they'll fall outwards.Oh and however much you like the noise with the sunroof open,close it or you'll get a nice dose of tinitus.:)

scudster

The Nutty M wrote: »

Watch out for a 97 KE 110-90 that has a 130 engine in her.2 and a half weeks of solid work converting it,well worth it at the end. And as for half shafts breaking,one broke on me 5years ago as I was slowing down for traffic lights in a town.Pretty sight indeed.Only other thing I can think of that hasn't been mentioned by scudster is watch the panes of glass in the doors,do not let anyone lean up against them from the inside or they'll fall outwards.Oh and however much you like the noise with the sunroof open,close it or you'll get a nice dose of tinitus.:)

Ah yea, forgot about them door panes. Seen the same thing happenin. Damn farmers and their fat arses! As for the sunroof bein open tinitus is a definite. The guy I do a bit of work for has his all replaced with a sheet of metal and welded shut due to rot. When he bought his last brand new 110 back in 95, his son went to turn in a car park with his sunroof open and sheared it off with the height restriction bar at the entrance to the carpark! Nasty!
The half shaft thing happened to my bro as he took a corner on a road flat out with only a Claas 46 behind him. He left a nice big pothole behind him but almost flattened 2 women with the stray wheel in the process. Nobody was hurt thank god but could have been alot worse. He just got a bit of a fright was all.

That 130hp 110 sounds like she'd gobble up acres of dauby ground for brekkie! Nice one my son!

Blink182rock

leitrim lad wrote: »

either way they both are a good tractor, but the 110 90 would be better power wise i have a 90 90 dt mighty tractor i do the wrapping with it ,and hedge cutting, maybe a little hard on diesel ,but what fiat isnt , and true from 93/95 they made big changes to the body work,

but they are ment to be the best geared tractor you can buy from that era, and beleive it or not i prefer the 90 90dt which is a 1992 ,to my john deere 6210 , the fiat would eat it alive,

i sprayed her up last winter and tightened her up a bit like brand new now

Hows things !! Ino years later and dunno if your going to see this but I have 90 90 as-well and was looking for some info about them was wondering would you mind helping me just seeing as you have a 90 90 and cant get much info on the web ?
Cheers Chris

flyingfiat

well able sure we pulled 15 tonne behind a 90-90 and 25 tonne behind a 110-90 no bother at all

mickey bo

adne wrote: »

cheers for this very informative post scudster.... hard to source a good one close to 10 k as opposed to close to 20 k

the 'o4 blue (tradition) 110's are the cheapest and best bet would be the north. New Holland turbo 110's (terracotta) are the most expensive and in many peoples opinion thier the best...Fiatagri 110-90 DT could fetch 15,000 easy, over priced, under powered but great worker.

mickey bo

tractor data, gives ya fair bit of info on any tractor...capacities years in production and stuff

Donegal09

mickey bo wrote: »

the 'o4 blue (tradition) 110's are the cheapest and best bet would be the north. New Holland turbo 110's (terracotta) are the most expensive and in many peoples opinion thier the best...Fiatagri 110-90 DT could fetch 15,000 easy, over priced, under powered but great worker.

Our blue 110-90 is 2004, tradition turbo, 130hp and still worth well over 20k , and well worth it in my opinion.

farmer_nilsson

Scudster: "Breaks can leak oil. This should be evident if the breaks are spongey and the break warning light comes on. Had some close one with this but a second pump of the breaks should get you out of immediate danger."

I'm experiencing the same problem with my 110-90.
Did you find out where it was leaking from? And what break fluid did you use?

case956tom

farmer_nilsson wrote: »

Scudster: "Breaks can leak oil. This should be evident if the breaks are spongey and the break warning light comes on. Had some close one with this but a second pump of the breaks should get you out of immediate danger."

I'm experiencing the same problem with my 110-90.
Did you find out where it was leaking from? And what break fluid did you use?

there will be brake fluid under the tractor If its leaking from pipes or the trailer brake valve etc, if not its internal prob the pistons in the axles.use mineral oil for the brakes same as used in citroen cars/db tractors.

farmer_nilsson

Thanks case956tom for the info.

This morning I tried filling the container with new fluid and aired the lines. After some time the brake pedal started feeling more "normal" as i guess the fluid was being pumped into the cylinder as i pressed the pedal.
However, even when the fluid container is full to the brim and i've aired out the whole system, i can't get enough oil into the cylinder to actually put enough pressure on the brakes that the tractor can stop on for example a slight inclined surface. the pedal can be pushed all the way down and even then she doesn't stop fully.

I'm using a motoroil 10W-40 that i have in my volvo. is that fluid not "thin" enough...perhpas the oil is too thick i'm thinking?
any ideas?

FT7

farmer_nilsson wrote: »

Thanks case956tom for the info.

This morning I tried filling the container with new fluid and aired the lines. After some time the brake pedal started feeling more "normal" as i guess the fluid was being pumped into the cylinder as i pressed the pedal.
However, even when the fluid container is full to the brim and i've aired out the whole system, i can't get enough oil into the cylinder to actually put enough pressure on the brakes that the tractor can stop on for example a slight inclined surface. the pedal can be pushed all the way down and even then she doesn't stop fully.

I'm using a motoroil 10W-40 that i have in my volvo. is that fluid not "thin" enough...perhpas the oil is too thick i'm thinking?
any ideas?

seals could be gone from using wrong oil

farmer_nilsson

Ok thanks.

I think i have to replace the oil i filled it with. is there a way of emptying the brakefluid? other than emptying the container?

thanks!

Thelostcountry

farmer_nilsson wrote: »

Ok thanks.

I think i have to replace the oil i filled it with. is there a way of emptying the brakefluid? other than emptying the container?

thanks!

What oil did it say to use on top of the filler cap res? I think the engine oil caused the seals to skink!! You could be looking at a full brake seal over haul!!!


just bleed the system out and refill with the manufacture oil spec and hope to fooked its ok!!!

farmer_nilsson

Thelostcountry wrote: »

What oil did it say to use on top of the filler cap res? I think the engine oil caused the seals to skink!! You could be looking at a full brake seal over haul!!!


just bleed the system out and refill with the manufacture oil spec and hope to fooked its ok!!!

I didn't see any specific oil recommendation on the cap, but the instructions manual said one could use a 10w motor oil.

Now i've got a LHM+ mineral oil instead. But i need to find out how to bleed out all the old oil I added before as break fluid.

Tha'ts what i was wondering where the nut is to empty out all the old oil? not the trans. oil...the break fluid...

Thelostcountry

farmer_nilsson wrote: »

the break fluid...

You can use a vaccum pump to suck it out of brake lines and master cylinder attach it to bleed nipples!!!

Alternative! just open the bleed nipples and let Gravity do the rest!!!

farmer_nilsson

Thelostcountry wrote: »

You can use a vaccum pump to suck it out of brake lines and master cylinder attach it to bleed nipples!!!

Alternative! just open the bleed nipples and let Gravity do the rest!!!

Okidoki...thanks...will give it a try.
Does pumping the breaks help empty the oil from the bleed nipples or is that not a good idea?

Thelostcountry

farmer_nilsson wrote: »

Okidoki...thanks...will give it a try.
Does pumping the breaks help empty the oil from the bleed nipples or is that not a good idea?

I wouldn't pump the brakes with nipples open,for fair of turning the seals inside in the master cylinder. just let it bleed out or use vaccum.

farmer_nilsson

Thelostcountry wrote: »

I wouldn't pump the brakes with nipples open,for fair of turning the seals inside in the master cylinder. just let it bleed out or use vaccum.

ok thanks...will give it a try and let you guys know how it goes.