Quick-release skewer orientation

stopped_clock

I've been wondering.... Does it matter if a quick-release skewer is the 'wrong-way-round' ie with the handle on the right?

In practice I guess it means the wheel is probably backwards too.

Now I can see this being a slight issue for the rear wheel, but what about the front? I've seen it on bikes in the past and have wondered if I should say something.

zzzzzzzz

stopped_clock wrote: »

I've been wondering.... Does it matter if a quick-release skewer is the 'wrong-way-round' ie with the handle on the right?

In practice I guess it means the wheel is probably backwards too.

Now I can see this being a slight issue for the rear wheel, but what about the front? I've seen it on bikes in the past and have wondered if I should say something.

It makes no difference - the skewer is independent of the wheel anyway - you can replace them and put them in the other way if you want...

It's a good idea to close the qr towards the back of the bike though, especially on mountain bikes. The reasoning being, they could get caught in something if you close them the other way.

DirkVoodoo

I think it just makes it easier. The rear one has to face the non-drive side, I think there may be clearance issues with the rear derailleur, so it's handy having the front one on the same side too.

Lumen

The QR levers must be on the non drive side, with the levers aligned against the fork/stays.

This keeps the drive side looking pretty for your public. :pac:

rottenhat

Lumen wrote: »

The QR levers must be on the non drive side, with the levers aligned against the fork/stays.

It is well known that they should run parallel with the ground as if blown backwards by your awe-inspiring speed.

stopped_clock

Grand stuff. Thanks guys. I'll continue not pointing out drive-side QRs with a clear conscience.

blorg

As Aidan says it makes no difference. I have heard some MTB people run their QRs on the drive side to avoid burning their hands on the discs if a quick wheel change is needed.

You can of course turn the skewer around so your wheel is not necessarily the wrong way around (not that this makes much difference either in most cases.)

stopped_clock

Cheers Blorg,

On a related point, and not wishing to start another thread for it. I was removing my wheel a while back. The QR was too tight to undo by hand so I levered it with something.... and dented / marked the (carbon) fork. Is this likely to be a problem?

I'd post a pic but the bike's in Ireland and I'm not.

rubadub

stopped_clock wrote: »

The QR was too tight to undo by hand so I levered it with something.... and dented / marked the (carbon) fork. Is this likely to be a problem?

Not sure about it being a problem, but in future you could use a strong bit of cloth to loop around it, then you have a good bit of material to pull on, or can wrap around you hand if really tight.

blorg

stopped_clock wrote: »

Cheers Blorg,

On a related point, and not wishing to start another thread for it. I was removing my wheel a while back. The QR was too tight to undo by hand so I levered it with something.... and dented / marked the (carbon) fork. Is this likely to be a problem?

I'd post a pic but the bike's in Ireland and I'm not.

It certainly could be, I'd get it looked at by someone and consider replacing the fork, bit of a critical component.

kona

OP, if there is a mark/imprint on the fork, its ****ed, its strength has been comprimised and i wouldnt fancy a nose dive unexpectedly at 20kmph:o

Why do people over tighten EVERYTHING, ive seen quick release skewers with the lever facing out(in sane and proper terms loose) and the nut butchered with the "home mechanics" only tool, the pliers.

There is a reason shimano have a note attached to EVERY skewer they sell with directions on how to use this simple device.

Overtightening to the extent you need a lever to lever the lever:rolleyes::eek: will wreck your bearings in the wheel too.


on lever direction, it doesnt matter once it works, i fit mine just off the fork so i can grip it. Its all dependant on bike frame, derailleur.

its not that complicated honest!

rottenhat

stopped_clock wrote: »

The QR was too tight to undo by hand so I levered it with something.... and dented / marked the (carbon) fork. Is this likely to be a problem?

NB This is why you do NOT align the QR lever with your fork or chainstays - it can be difficult to get your fingers underneath it enough to open the lever if you have it cinched down tight.

Lumen

rottenhat wrote: »

NB This is why you do NOT align the QR lever with your fork or chainstays - it can be difficult to get your fingers underneath it enough to open the lever if you have it cinched down tight.

Skewers don't need to be that tight, do they?

Unless you're using them on the back end of a fixie/SS.

Chips Lovell

Believe me, you don't want your forks to fail. Get them checked out. Anything more than a scrape in the clearcoat or paint and I'd put them in the bin.

kona

Lumen wrote: »

Skewers don't need to be that tight, do they?

Unless you're using them on the back end of a fixie/SS.

would you use em on horizontal dropouts??, bolt thru every time.

skewers used properly should just leave a tiny mark on your hand when tightened, the beauty is its the lever that does the work.

rottenhat

Kona speaks the truth. The people who really make my head hurt are the ones who grip the chainstay for extra leverage because the lever is too tight to close otherwise and then can't get it open because it's flush to the stay...Tullio forgive them, they know not what they do.

stopped_clock

rottenhat wrote: »

NB This is why you do NOT align the QR lever with your fork or chainstays

From memory, that was the exact problem.

kona wrote: »

OP, if there is a mark/imprint on the fork, its ****ed, its strength has been comprimised and i wouldnt fancy a nose dive unexpectedly at 20kmph:o

My Name is Mario wrote: »

Believe me, you don't want your forks to fail. Get them checked out. Anything more than a scrape in the clearcoat or paint and I'd put them in the bin.

The answers I expected and feared! They're prob for the bin.


@Kona - Fair points... I tightened by hand, but it always seems to be easier to tighten than loosen.

Lumen wrote: »

Skewers don't need to be that tight, do they?

Unless you're using them on the back end of a fixie/SS.

What if you don't have 'lawyer lips' on your drop-outs? They need to be quite tight then don't they?

BostonB

Is it possible to replace the QR with a nut on an old MTB. I'm fed up having to lock it.

blorg

BostonB wrote: »

Is it possible to replace the QR with a nut on an old MTB. I'm fed up having to lock it.

You can get QRs that use an Allen key, alternatively you can get locking ones that have a key to open.

NeilMcEoigheann

with disk brakes you can pull a wheel out of alignment if the QR skewers are not tightened enough. i agree with the putting the leaver on the far side from the disk rotor HOT HOT HOT.

niceonetom

BostonB wrote: »

Is it possible to replace the QR with a nut on an old MTB. I'm fed up having to lock it.

Pit lock is suppposed to be good. Never tried myself.

Alternatively you can replace the axle with a solid one and use bolts. Not that hard to do if you are handy with the spanners.

Húrin

hehe yeah I remember I used to otally overtighten my skewers. I was so paranoid about the wheel coming off that I hammered the lever tight! Fortunately no carbon frame was involved.

Lumen

rottenhat wrote: »

It is well known that they should run parallel with the ground as if blown backwards by your awe-inspiring speed.

Aero quick releases FTW!