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Crankset end cap (Hollowtech II)

  • 10-04-2009 1:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,146 ✭✭✭


    I was looking for one earlier today. It being good Friday I was at home, so I went to town to look for one. Then I remembered why I don't deal with bike shops, I told them to keep it.

    Anyway, opinions please on a Hollowtech II crank cap
    How much would you pay?
    What variations are there?
    I'm assuming with shimano being sound, the end caps from 105 up are all interchangeable. Are they?

    Answers on a post card please...


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 179 ✭✭Halfrauds


    mine fell off too?? do you have LX???
    the one on my hone cranks is still on.

    Id imagine they couldnt be more than e10. do chainreaction not have them? I cant imagine it playing a big part in holding the crank on, its only like 4 threads and just torqued up hand tight basically. So im not in a mad rush for one, but id rather have it soon.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    It doesn't hold the cranks on at all but it is used to set the bearing pre-load. The two crank bolts hold the crank on the spindle. As such I don't think it matters if it falls off, but you would need it if you wanted to reinstall the cranks. I THINK (have not yet installed cranks but will be shortly.)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    I lost one of these too.

    Found it hard to find a place that had them in stock. Ended up getting one HERE.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Why do you not deal with "bike shops" (in the general) out of interest? (I can understand a particular shop.) Might be the easiest...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,146 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    I never had one since the start, I bought a groupset (105) about 15 months ago, and they forgot that part.
    I used one of another big to push the crank in, and then I cut some perspex and hot glued it on. Works fine. I was home today, so I started to clean my bikes. The perspex one came off a month back, so I said I'd try and get one.
    First they told me they weren't compatible depending on the groupset (we were talking shimano only) but I knew that was false. They then tried to sell me an aluminum one, but were charging a nice bit for it. Said it was from an SL and was high end. As far as I am aware, SL is a dark silvery colour, so that part wouldn't of matched, and my DA-7900 came with a plastic cap.
    Bike shops around where I live have never been very good, I feel the job I do myself is far superior. On top of that, they are extremely slow and expensive. Dublin is a lot better, but not perfect, but I got a good few parts for my last build in a bricks and mortar shop.
    Cheers for the link, getting the proper name/part number will make it easier to ebay or something.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 179 ✭✭Halfrauds


    blorg wrote: »
    It doesn't hold the cranks on at all but it is used to set the bearing pre-load. The two crank bolts hold the crank on the spindle. As such I don't think it matters if it falls off, but you would need it if you wanted to reinstall the cranks. I THINK (have not yet installed cranks but will be shortly.)

    while on the discussion, how ****E are the bolts shimano use:mad: to hold the crank on, ive had both round on me, even when using a torque wrench.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,038 ✭✭✭penexpers


    Cheers for the link, getting the proper name/part number will make it easier to ebay or something.

    Best place to get the proper part number is the shimano website


    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/FC/EV-FC-7800-2251E_v1_m56577569830608870.pdf


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 493 ✭✭Redjeep!


    Hey Cornflake,

    I think your being a bit overcritical of your LBS in fairness. I was in the shop when you came in (I don't work there and don't have any connections to them other than as a customer).
    They did initially try and find something from the workshop that presumably you could have had for next to nothing, but couldn't split an entire crankset for it. They did explain that the only thing they'd have probably wouldn't match, might not be compatable and would be pricey.
    You'd probably always get something cheaper online or on eBay, but then you wouldn't expect the same service and advice. Places like that don't typically make a fortune and are usually prepared to help.

    I'd also assume that if you'd you'd bought the crankset from there in the first place, you wouldn't now be looking around for missing parts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    Halfrauds wrote: »
    while on the discussion, how ****E are the bolts shimano use:mad: to hold the crank on, ive had both round on me, even when using a torque wrench.

    Me too. They're made out of butter ffs. I'm ordering replacements now because I'm sure that if i try to tighten the fcukers once more the heads will go completely and they'll be on there forever. I think that riding around with them loose enough to allow some play to develop while climbing may have knackered the splines and now I might need a new crank.

    Balls.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,860 ✭✭✭TinyExplosions


    niceonetom wrote: »
    Balls.

    Good excuse to upgrade though... :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭niceonetom


    Good excuse to upgrade though... :)

    yes, yes, but my ultegra stuff was just about the only thing i felt i could move over to the p-x without issue. i'd rather spend money on nice finishing kit stuff rather than have to replace bits of drivetrain. i've ordered new pinch bolts - that may solve the problem. failing that i may be able to get a new left crank arm. an entirely new chainset is the last resort.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,860 ✭✭✭TinyExplosions


    niceonetom wrote: »
    yes, yes, but my ultegra stuff was just about the only thing i felt i could move over to the p-x without issue. i'd rather spend money on nice finishing kit stuff rather than have to replace bits of drivetrain. i've ordered new pinch bolts - that may solve the problem. failing that i may be able to get a new left crank arm. an entirely new chainset is the last resort.

    Hmmm... sounds like a good idea to do an FSA upgrade on the crankset :)

    Though a nice, integrated set of bars and stem would be nice... all white an carbon... and a ceramic headset... and... and... and...

    yeah, this is maybe going a bit to far...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,505 ✭✭✭✭DirkVoodoo


    Yeah the cap just pushes the crank arm against the bearings, it's pretty important for proper fit and good working order.

    4-6 Nm is the recommended torque for the cap, 9.9-14.9 Nm for the pinch bolts.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 179 ✭✭Halfrauds


    so its not really a major part unless, you dont have it when installing?

    anyways for those who care, i ordered a plastic one for shimano Deore LX, came to the princely sum of €1.59, ill have to wait though as apparantley the suppliers are out and it wont be with them till the 17th.


    oh yes you wouldnt believe where i got it.:P


    Halfords in coolock.:eek:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 730 ✭✭✭short circuit


    DirkVoodoo wrote: »
    Yeah the cap just pushes the crank arm against the bearings, it's pretty important for proper fit and good working order.

    4-6 Nm is the recommended torque for the cap, 9.9-14.9 Nm for the pinch bolts.

    Can someone explain how 4-6Nm feels like .... tough I know .. but don't have a torque wrench ...

    When I took mine off for the 1st time since I got the bike ... it was like I could have taken it off with a finger ... only the loctite seemed to be holding it in.

    I put it back the same way ... but found my crank arms moving after around 200kms ... moving as in the left arm, axle and right arm moving 1mm either way as if not everything was pulled together properly.

    So I loosened the crank arm pinch bolts and tightened the cap till there was no sideways movement in the crank arms before tightening the pinch bolts .. and now I am wondering if I over cooked it .. :o

    I've heard that the FSA bearings are extremely sensitive to over tightening and hence a bit of a worry.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 179 ✭✭Halfrauds


    Can someone explain how 4-6Nm feels like .... tough I know .. but don't have a torque wrench ...

    When I took mine off for the 1st time since I got the bike ... it was like I could have taken it off with a finger ... only the loctite seemed to be holding it in.

    .

    4-6nm ,its just hand tight basically. Its 40nm on a square tapered crank bolt.
    just to give you a idea.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,146 ✭✭✭Explosive_Cornflake


    You're largely right, and I'm not going to disagree with you. I mean no offence towards the shop, as it is infinitely better than anything else in the area. My main aim with this thread was to find and price, not to give out about a shop. I'm not mentioning shop names, or what town it is, because as you say, I am being over critical.
    Again, it's not my intention to make disparaging remarks against the shop, but my main problem was initially being told the parts weren't compatible, which I disagree with from experience with swapping them around.
    I'll mention no more on this issue.
    Redjeep! wrote: »
    Hey Cornflake,

    I think your being a bit overcritical of your LBS in fairness. I was in the shop when you came in (I don't work there and don't have any connections to them other than as a customer).
    They did initially try and find something from the workshop that presumably you could have had for next to nothing, but couldn't split an entire crankset for it. They did explain that the only thing they'd have probably wouldn't match, might not be compatable and would be pricey.
    You'd probably always get something cheaper online or on eBay, but then you wouldn't expect the same service and advice. Places like that don't typically make a fortune and are usually prepared to help.

    I'd also assume that if you'd you'd bought the crankset from there in the first place, you wouldn't now be looking around for missing parts.


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