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Solid, semi solid and laminate, doors etc

  • 01-04-2009 12:49pm
    #1
    disland
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 89 ✭✭


    Ok so my build is near the end and my floors havent arrived yet.

    How long do I have to let them acclimatise when they do arrive?

    The Solid is walnut
    The Semi Solid is distressed maple
    The Laminate is oak

    Also doors and window cills, do they need to acclimatise?

    Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    buck65
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,969 ✭✭✭buck65


    For solid and engineered floors the moisture level in the concrete must be below 3% (this takes aprox 6 months after pouring with the heat on for a few weeks). Acclimatise the floor for a week before installation.
    Once the doors are sealed there should be no problem with movement again only after the house is fully dried out should they be taken out of their wrappers.


  • #3
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    as mentioned in a perfect world you need a very long time.

    But in real life I bet you wont be able to wait that long.

    But you should leave a month after plastering with heat on slowly. And windows open. expect to use a fill of oil.

    dont get the timber delivered till near second fix.

    Keep your skirting and doors wrapped up . the skirting will be strapped. Dont be temped to release the straps . They will cup other wise.


    Keep the floor wrapped and open the ends of the packet . Leave there for a few weeks at least.

    Semi , solid or laminate is your own pref. But be warned . A solid may well cup on a new build. 3 to 4 % is hard to achieve in a month unless you have underfloor heating.

    Most doors will swell in the first week or 2. Ask your chippy to leave the margins as tight as possible. Wait till your in a few months before the snag and get them fixed then. Its common enough for a door not to close one day after hanging.. Painted or not, they will swell and then contract again. When they contract they can shrink by 1/4 hence the small margins.


    Window boards tend to cup if fitted before the plastering. Not so much after. Deal seems to cup the worst . 1"+ hardwood give least trouble with cupping. Before installing. varnish or paint the bottoms tops and end grain once to seal them. this helps a little.
    also ask to get your window board slotted underneath. This prevents cupping most of the time.

    Ask the chippy what he thinks about gluing them down as well as screwing. I found great results with "stiks all" and "tec 7" glue. Polimer baced stuff.

    40 year guarantee and 10 times better than gunoprine gap filling glue.

    as I said. drag out the time to your snag. It will be better in the long run.


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