Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

What's wrong with this?

  • 23-03-2009 1:01pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,093 ✭✭✭


    Or how can I improve it? I have real issues with exposure.

    3379208994_67cee6347b.jpg

    One thing I notice about my photography is that if there's hazy sunshine, the background can get quite obscured - in this case, the mountains in the background are covered in hazy sunshine, and lose colour and clarity. Is there anything I can do about it?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,930 ✭✭✭✭challengemaster


    HDR / Multiple exposure shot


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,713 ✭✭✭DaireQuinlan


    HDR / Multiple exposure shot

    Shoot film :D

    Polariser will do wonders to try and clarify the background in shots like that, although sometimes there -isn't- anything you can do. Some days are just hazy and indistinct, so unless you're looking for just that sort of shot its a day to go shoot something other than landscapes.

    Part of the problem with the exposure (if thats what you're also asking about, could be my monitor here in work, but the foreground there looks very dark) is that you've exposed to try and avoid blowing out the sky too much, so the ground is underexposed. Given the situation there (looks like the sun was in behind those clouds ?) there isn't a whole pile you could do about that either, except a bracketed HDR as challengemaster suggests, or (if its even an option) shooting film, which has considerably better latitude in these situations. Film would probably blow out at the clouds here aswell to an extent, but it looks a lot better when it does it ...

    -edit- or of course, use an ND-grad. I've never used them but a lot of the landscape peeps here seem swear by them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭mloc



    -edit- or of course, use an ND-grad. I've never used them but a lot of the landscape peeps here seem swear by them.

    Agreed. ND Grad would be ideal in that.

    The best way to use them is to meter for the foreground, meter for the sky, work out the difference in stops and then use a suitable grad filter. For example, if the sky meters 3 stops brighter than the foreground, use a 3 stop ND Grad to balance it all out.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,359 ✭✭✭Overblood


    You could use a CPL filter, it would get rid of most of the hazyness in the distance.

    Or a ND Grad filter.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,093 ✭✭✭TelePaul


    Overblood wrote: »
    You could use a CPL filter, it would get rid of most of the hazyness in the distance.

    Or a ND Grad filter.

    Thanks lads. What's a CPL?

    So outside of buying an ND or using HDR, there's ntohing I can do in 'the appoach' to fix this? I'm a big believer in getting things right first time.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,713 ✭✭✭DaireQuinlan


    TelePaul wrote: »
    Thanks lads. What's a CPL?

    So outside of buying an ND or using HDR, there's ntohing I can do in 'the appoach' to fix this? I'm a big believer in getting things right first time.

    CPL is a polariser. Specifically a circular polariser.
    Using a graduated ND would be fixing it in "the approach" if I understand you rightly, it won't need any PP, or at least no more than you usually apply. Its probably the only way to shoot that scene and try and keep everything exposed more or less correctly. mloc points out the correct approach to doing it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,484 ✭✭✭✭Stephen


    CPL = circular polariser.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,359 ✭✭✭Overblood


    I'd leave HDR as a last resort. They usually end up looking fake and... plasticky?!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,843 ✭✭✭Arciphel


    Grad filter on the sky, bit of fill light in the foreground and you're good to go I reckon. Is this in Glendalough? I think I have a pic from the exact same spot ;)

    (If you have the link to the full siae image, put it up here & I'll diddle with it in Lightroom and post it back up here to show you what I mean....)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,093 ✭✭✭TelePaul


    Arciphel wrote: »
    Grad filter on the sky, bit of fill light in the foreground and you're good to go I reckon. Is this in Glendalough? I think I have a pic from the exact same spot ;)

    (If you have the link to the full siae image, put it up here & I'll diddle with it in Lightroom and post it back up here to show you what I mean....)

    That'd be great, thanks!

    Here it is

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3562/3379208994_67cee6347b_b.jpg


  • Advertisement
Advertisement