electricky

O.A.P

Anyone know what goes where in the pictures earth,live and the wire to the bulb. Its a new work lamp and I know that the wiring is ok to the lamp.

Slidey

This is the best I can do while drunk!










Edit: Btw the way the thanks button is over here ..........................................................................................................................

O.A.P

Slidey wrote: »

This is the best I can do while drunk!










Edit: Btw the way the thanks button is over here ..........................................................................................................................

THANKS theres a switch on the back of the lamp though so that aint it.(I think) Iv tried ringing wipac and was told me they would ring back but they must have forgot. The pics are **** and I dont know how to draw on here Ill try to expline it. Behind the switch there is 1 slot, 1 pin and a pin with a wire attached. The bulb also has a wire attached.If Iv understood your drawing right live to wire on the bulb earth to bulb holder then Iv bypast the switch

Slidey

Ah i see the blue wire is on to the switch on the lamp.

You can bypass that as you said. I see you are using unshielded spades. Put a little insulation tape on them incase they touch.

Rovi

I'm open to correction here, but I don't think that system can be assembled with the connectors pictured.

Are the red and blue Lucar connectors (POSITIVE & NEGATIVE) an original part of the lamp, or were they fitted afterwards?


If I was wiring this, I'd change the NEGATIVE male connector for a female one, and wire it like this:

POSITIVE goes to the spare connection on the switch;
the blue wire from the switch goes to the white wire on the bulb;
NEGATIVE goes to the connection on the bulb holder.


Incidentally, the different colours of the crimp-on connectors denotes their intended use on different wire sizes:

Red: 0.4 to 1.0 mm2
Blue: 1.1 to 2.6 mm2
Yellow: 2.5 to 6.5 mm2

peasant

I think this would be an opportune time to say that boards.ie will carry no responsibility whatsoever in case you get zapped or blow your lights :D:D

Rovi

peasant wrote: »

I think this would be an opportune time to say that boards.ie will carry no responsibility whatsoever in case you get zapped or blow your lights :D:D

Indeed; although assuming the OP is working with 12v (or possibly 24v), the likelihood of getting 'zapped' is pretty low.
Letting the smoke out of the coloured pipes is certainly a possibility though, so a bit of insulation might well be in order, as Slidey says.

Or switch to fully insulated connectors:

O.A.P

Rovi wrote: »

Indeed; although assuming the OP is working with 12v (or possibly 24v), the likelihood of getting 'zapped' is pretty low.
Letting the smoke out of the coloured pipes is certainly a possibility though, so a bit of insulation might well be in order, as Slidey says.

Or switch to fully insulated connectors:

Lads Iv just got in, busy day, and thank a million Ill try Rovis set up tommorow morning with the insulated connectors and post how I get on

Rovi

O.A.P wrote: »

Lads Iv just got in, busy day, and thank a million Ill try Rovis set up tommorow morning with the insulated connectors and post how I get on

We'll watch out for the smoke! :eek:

Nah, seriously, this sort of stuff is easy enough, just take your time and think of it as a logical sequence of events: the current comes in 'here', goes through 'this', and goes back out 'there'.

O.A.P

My new hobby reversing at night very dark nights. Thanks lads