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Power Meter

  • 11-03-2009 10:26am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 99 ✭✭


    hi folks...

    I originally posted this in the triathlon thread, but no resposes so far :(

    ..... i did one sprint triathlon last year, doing 2 sprints this year, possibly an olympic. im trying to take my approach to training a lot more serous, i am reading the triathlon trianing bible.... some of you may be familiar with it.... and i can already see that last year i over trained and was probably suffing from burn out when i competed in the race.

    well im going to purchase a heart monitor and was looking at getting a power monitor for the bike too.... has any one any views on them? or recommed where to get one? i cant seem to find them on the sites id normaly use (cyclesuperstore.chainreactions)

    id really appreciate some feed back :)

    cheers


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,001 ✭✭✭scottreynolds


    hi folks...

    I originally posted this in the triathlon thread, but no resposes so far :(

    ..... i did one sprint triathlon last year, doing 2 sprints this year, possibly an olympic. im trying to take my approach to training a lot more serous, i am reading the triathlon trianing bible.... some of you may be familiar with it.... and i can already see that last year i over trained and was probably suffing from burn out when i competed in the race.

    well im going to purchase a heart monitor and was looking at getting a power monitor for the bike too.... has any one any views on them? or recommed where to get one? i cant seem to find them on the sites id normaly use (cyclesuperstore.chainreactions)

    id really appreciate some feed back :)

    cheers

    Since money is no option ;) -- not if you want a power meter.

    I'd suggest renting a power meter from here ( http://www.cyclepowermeters.com/ ) for a few months. There's an irish company developing one as well -- brim brothers but theere's no indication of a release date. My opinion is that the power ops one is the best option but look through this forum as people discuss the different options.

    I haven't used a power meter but will probably buy one in the future and did a bit of research.

    For HRM etc I reckon the garmin 705 is about the best option going for cycling as it would also work with the power meter from cycle ops. There's a benefit from recording everything in one place.

    If its for triathlon then I recommend a watch version HRM so you can use it running but if you do down that route you would need a way to monitor the power output while cycling. Polar 800CX looks pretty good for triathlon.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,220 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    SRM cranks = useful for multiple wheels, expensive.
    Powertap hub = useful for multiple bikes, cheaper.

    If they were the same price (or I had unlimited budget) I'd go for the cranks, since you then get a choice of wheels, and getting a wheel rebuilt would be more of a hassle with the Powertap hub.

    It gets really expensive if you want to keep the weight down.

    Lightweight Powertab hubs built on a HED Ardennes wheelset comes in at €1900, and the SRM FSA K-Force Light crankset is €2629.90 from the SRM site. In both cases the computer is extra.

    Not exactly budget-friendly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    Lumen wrote: »
    SRM cranks = useful for multiple wheels, expensive.
    Powertap hub = useful for multiple bikes, cheaper.

    If they were the same price (or I had unlimited budget) I'd go for the cranks, since you then get a choice of wheels, and getting a wheel rebuilt would be more of a hassle with the Powertap hub.

    It gets really expensive if you want to keep the weight down.

    Lightweight Powertab hubs built on a HED Ardennes wheelset comes in at €1900, and the SRM FSA K-Force Light crankset is €2629.90 from the SRM site. In both cases the computer is extra.

    Not exactly budget-friendly.

    SRM Durace is just as quick to swtich between bikes as a Powertap.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,220 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    tunney wrote: »
    SRM Durace is just as quick to swtich between bikes as a Powertap.

    I have a Truvativ Elita 2.2 triple on one bike, and a Veloce compact double on the other.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    Lumen wrote: »
    I have a Truvativ Elita 2.2 triple on one bike, and a Veloce compact double on the other.

    A triple and a compact - are you trying to rise me? :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,220 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    tunney wrote: »
    A triple and a compact - are you trying to rise me? :)

    Did I mention the mudguards and the baby seat clamp?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,001 ✭✭✭scottreynolds


    tunney wrote: »
    SRM Durace is just as quick to swtich between bikes as a Powertap.

    cool -- Lets see you change a crank in 10 seconds like the pro mechanics do on telly. :eek:

    Being someone who doesn't have one, yet, I can merely speculate but you are an ace mechanic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    cool -- Lets see you change a crank in 10 seconds like the pro mechanics do on telly. :eek:

    Being someone who doesn't have one, yet, I can merely speculate but you are an ace mechanic.

    I'm a competent mechanic. However my wife could change a Durace crankset in under a minute (two tops). Thats why the Durace SRM is the one to get. The rest cannot be changed as quickly and changing other cranks as regularly would damage them. Also them don't need to "bed in".

    Two 5mm allen bolts and a the dust cap to remove, cranks slide off, slash them on the other bike and put the dust cap on and then tighten the two bolts!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,001 ✭✭✭scottreynolds


    tunney wrote: »
    I'm a competent mechanic. However my wife could change a Durace crankset in under a minute (two tops). Thats why the Durace SRM is the one to get. The rest cannot be changed as quickly and changing other cranks as regularly would damage them. Also them don't need to "bed in".

    Two 5mm allen bolts and a the dust cap to remove, cranks slide off, slash them on the other bike and put the dust cap on and then tighten the two bolts!

    Surely a Campag Ultra-Torque set would be the same?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,001 ✭✭✭scottreynolds


    What about the IBike one has anyone done any research into that. Its just a computer than uses smart physics.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    What about the IBike one has anyone done any research into that. Its just a computer than uses smart physics.

    Its a waste of handlebar space.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭ryan_sherlock


    I have a new PowerTap SL 2.4 laced with Sapim CX-Ray (€3 each) spokes to a Mavic Open Pro rim (32 hole) for sale.

    The Hub bearings (now ceramic) and electronic internals/freehub/computer are brand new from Saris (a sponsor this year) - basically a new hub - the rim has about 7,000k on it - spokes are perfect.

    There are some pictures at the start of this post: http://ryansherlock.blogspot.com/2008/01/christmas-2007.html

    €900


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,220 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I have a new PowerTap SL 2.4 laced with Sapim CX-Ray (€3 each) spokes to a Mavic Open Pro rim (32 hole) for sale.

    Mind me asking why you're selling it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭ryan_sherlock


    I have an SRM Pro on my road bike now (for use with my Zipp 404s).

    I'm using a PowerTap SL Disc on the mountain bike now. Really interesting to see HOW different road biking and mountain biking really is. In an MTB race, unless there are long climbs (5min +) you are basically either coasting, endurance pace or anerobic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    Everything I have read does suggest that the new Hollowtech cranks are very easy to swap, I will be doing it myself when I get back! @tunney- are 105, Ultegra and Dura-Ace not equally easy? I have a Ultegra SL compact and a Dura-Ace standard.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,220 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I have a new PowerTap SL 2.4 laced with Sapim CX-Ray (€3 each) spokes to a Mavic Open Pro rim (32 hole) for sale....
    €900

    Is it correct to say that the superceded 2.4 (7200 series) is not ANT+ compatible, so you have to use the Powertap computer rather than a Garmin or whatever?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    @ryan- would you have a weight on that wheel? Those spokes are pretty light, right? Also, is it Garmin 705 compatible?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭ryan_sherlock


    The weight is 1kg spot on (hub, rum, spokes, rim tape) as far as I remember. I told Saris to update it to Ant+ when they had the hub but I didn't check it when I got back. I'm currently racing in Cyprus so I wont be able to check until Tuesday.

    If it is not compatible, all it takes is a firmware upgrade to update it $99 as far as I remember but I could probably get a deal on that if needed.

    With the ceramic bearing upgrade - it's basically the same as the new SLC+ hub ($2100 retail).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭ryan_sherlock


    Oh, and yes - they are light spokes. Pretty much as blingy as they come. I got those because, they were bladed (aero), light and very stiff. Robin Seymour built up the wheel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    blorg wrote: »
    Everything I have read does suggest that the new Hollowtech cranks are very easy to swap, I will be doing it myself when I get back! @tunney- are 105, Ultegra and Dura-Ace not equally easy? I have a Ultegra SL compact and a Dura-Ace standard.

    Ultegra are the same, not sure on 105.

    SRM only modify the Dura-Ace.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭ryan_sherlock


    SRM actually take a DuraAce crank and mill out the internals for the electronics. That's why it is so expensive in relation to the Pro version while giving the same accuracy. (Due to the form of the crank, it needs more strain guages to give the same accuracy as the Pro version)

    DuraAce is super expensive and just a bit stiffer so I went with the Pro. I'm mainly an MTBer so I was not overly concerned with have the 'perfect' setup.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    SRM actually take a DuraAce crank and mill out the internals for the electronics. That's why it is so expensive in relation to the Pro version while giving the same accuracy. (Due to the form of the crank, it needs more strain guages to give the same accuracy as the Pro version)

    DuraAce is super expensive and just a bit stiffer so I went with the Pro. I'm mainly an MTBer so I was not overly concerned with have the 'perfect' setup.

    Its a good bit stiffer than the Pro version, although unless you're a sprinter no biggie.

    For me it is the ease of shifting between TT and road bikes that sold me on the DA.

    Yeah the normal pro has four strain gauges - the DA eight.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 99 ✭✭bananamansgay


    thanks for the feedback (most of which went over my head!)

    looks like iv been priced out of a power meter, but im sure i can structure training better this year and improve with out a meter.... the more i do triathlons the more i want to improve so it may be an option next year... thanks again.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,001 ✭✭✭scottreynolds


    thanks for the feedback (most of which went over my head!)

    looks like iv been priced out of a power meter, but im sure i can structure training better this year and improve with out a meter.... the more i do triathlons the more i want to improve so it may be an option next year... thanks again.

    Yes--- thats the exact reason you have many people talking about poewr meters and so few owning them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    Yes--- thats the exact reason you have many people talking about poewr meters and so few owning them.

    Read in an interview with the designer and ower of SRM that only 1400 SRM systems have been sold since he started the company. (This was last September or so) - mad.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    The big problem with SRM is that you can't get it in a triple... If it was available I am sure it would sell like hot cakes. Probably the reason I know more people with Powertap wheels.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,318 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    Why is the ibike allegedly so bad?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 309 ✭✭albob


    Yeah, the ibike intrigues me. Good idea. However a lot of the "non-biased" reviews had a nuber of criticisms about
    -rain
    -rough roads
    -Cornering
    -real-time lag
    -decending (still gives power output unles you also have the Cadence meter)

    But I dont know if all/any of these issues have been fixed in the newest generation of the iBike. $199 seems a great price for something that would be ~5% accurate ALL the time. But if it only works on a Tuesday just after a full moon when the wind is blowing from the east and you have rubbed snail slime on your manhood then $1 would be too much!


  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,269 Mod ✭✭✭✭Chips Lovell


    tunney wrote: »
    Read in an interview with the designer and ower of SRM that only 1400 SRM systems have been sold since he started the company. (This was last September or so) - mad.

    I'm really surprised at that. They must have given out the same number for free given the amount of pros now using them.
    blorg wrote: »
    The big problem with SRM is that you can't get it in a triple... If it was available I am sure it would sell like hot cakes. Probably the reason I know more people with Powertap wheels.

    You're trying to wind Tunney up aren't you?
    Raam wrote: »
    Why is the ibike allegedly so bad?

    It calculates power based on speed, wind resistance, gradient etc. I think the problem is that it can give you the same reading if you are in the drops or on the hoods, and you may be putting out less power in the drops. Then there is the issue of drafting.

    The iBike is interesting because it is potentially the most affordable option and least fiddly in terms of shifting between bikes. However, I think the first generation of them were truly terrible and its reputation was kind of ruined. The newer ones are meant to be much better, but probably still not up to the standard of SRM or Powertap. There's an interesting long piece about it on the Competitive Cyclist website. They sell them but haven't been afraid to slate their suppliers in the past.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,318 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    I'd be tempted to go for an ibike. My livelihood ain't depending on the thing, so if it isn't 100% accurate then it's no biggie.


  • Moderators, Politics Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,269 Mod ✭✭✭✭Chips Lovell


    Raam wrote: »
    I'd be tempted to go for an ibike. My livelihood ain't depending on the thing, so if it isn't 100% accurate then it's no biggie.

    Actually, I'd say consistency is more important than accuracy. For example, if a powermeter consistantly reports 10 watts+ on the real figure it should be no biggie as long as you're uninterested in comparing your numbers with someone else, as opposed to something that reports variations up and down of the real number.

    I seem to remember reading somewhere that the Polar was better from this point of view. Not as accurate as an SRM or Powertap, but fairly consistant, if I recall. Would need to look that up and check later when I get a chance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,995 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    I'd read up on it a bit more before getting an iBike, I have read enough suggestions that it is innacurate in enough situations to be essentially useless for the purpose you would be getting it for. Rough roads and rain are listed as big problems and we don't exactly lack them around Ireland.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 309 ✭✭albob


    +1 for Raam to buy the new gen iBike and then to o give a full and frank review of it here. No point in us all getting stung!
    At if its great, you'll be a hero.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,318 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    albob wrote: »
    +1 for Raam to buy the new gen iBike and then to o give a full and frank review of it here. No point in us all getting stung!
    At if its great, you'll be a hero.

    no such luck. It takes me ages to decide to buy something.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 309 ✭✭albob


    Ah well, worth a try :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 137 ✭✭danburke


    Can you get ramp tests done in a lab in ireland?

    If so do ye guys know how much they are?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 885 ✭✭✭ryan_sherlock


    Or, even more interestingly get an iBike and an SRM and they (the iBike computer) will calculate on the fly aerodynamic drag... Find your most aero position (that's comfortable). Okay, now we are getting a little more complex :)

    Very very interesting for TT people that already have a powermeter.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,390 ✭✭✭IM0


    tunney wrote: »
    I'm a competent mechanic.... Thats why the Durace SRM is the one to get.... The rest cannot be changed as quickly and changing other cranks as regularly would damage them.

    care to explian why changing the other cranks regularly (I presume you mean the amateur version?) would damage them :confused:
    Im well up on engineering speak and materials and tolerences, so be as detailed as possible if you could - Im in the market for an SRM so, I'd like to know your opinion. cheers. I just hate someone making a statement like that without being able to back it up thats all ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,390 ✭✭✭IM0


    blorg wrote: »
    The big problem with SRM is that you can't get it in a triple... If it was available I am sure it would sell like hot cakes.

    No offence to anyone (people waste their money on lots of other FAR more useless things :pac: ) but if you have a tripple there isnt really any need for a power meter at all is there? - rhetorical Q by the way! chances are your power wont improive at all, and you would be shocked to see how weak you were with the watts display and want to upgrade to a double (again) and so thats prob why there dont do them in tripples :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,901 ✭✭✭lukester


    Oh dear


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    me@ucd wrote: »
    care to explian why changing the other cranks regularly (I presume you mean the amateur version?) would damage them :confused:
    Im well up on engineering speak and materials and tolerences, so be as detailed as possible if you could - Im in the market for an SRM so, I'd like to know your opinion. cheers. I just hate someone making a statement like that without being able to back it up thats all ;)

    Since you asked so nicelySRMs - changing between bikes


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,390 ✭✭✭IM0


    tunney wrote: »
    Since you asked so nicelySRMs - changing between bikes

    nice try s(t)unney...but Im afraid Im up on the mouseover trick for links so, like you have just confirmed you're FOS :rolleyes: - word to the wise dont slate stuff without backing it up, just makes you look foolish :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 403 ✭✭MadHatter


    And they're off...

    This'll be a good one :pac::pac::pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,702 ✭✭✭Home:Ballyhoura


    Sorry for dragging this topic back up, I haven't read the thread but I came across this excellent extensive article on Power Meter's and great comparisons too. Some of you might have seen it already, I think it is really very good! ;)

    It takes a while to get through but is very interesting in the end, I garuntee you it's worth it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,584 ✭✭✭✭tunney


    me@ucd wrote: »
    nice try s(t)unney...but Im afraid Im up on the mouseover trick for links so, like you have just confirmed you're FOS :rolleyes: - word to the wise dont slate stuff without backing it up, just makes you look foolish :)


    I'd forgotten about this thread.

    DA needs no bedding in as no strain is put on RH crank during removal.
    Likewise for possible damage to strain gauges during constant changes. Plus any damage done to bolts, threads etc etc caused by the constant swapping are done to the LH crank which is standard DA and can be swapped out. Try fubaring the RH crank of your SRMs and you won't be a happy camper.

    If you look at the below page only the DA have this property
    http://www.srm.de/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=3&Itemid=148

    You may be "up on engineering speak and materials and tolerences" - but use of google, cop on and manners aren't your forte.


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