New ride: Tools

david

http://www.adverts.ie/showproduct.php?product=88350&cat=52

Picking up this bad boy today hopefully. I'm living in college at the moment so I'm just wondering what sort of tools I'll need to set it up/change bits etc (no tools here apart from a trusty old bicycle wrench!)

Should all the bolts be metric sized? Any bargains around town for hex wrenches/spanners?

Also is there anywhere about town to get those little clip on led lights? Like the Knog Frog ones?

Any tips for a fixed gear n00b?

Pics later :P

TinyExplosions

david wrote: »

Also is there anywhere about town to get those little clip on led lights? Like the Knog Frog ones?

Any tips for a fixed gear n00b?

Cycleways have the Frogs -12.50 each

Tips... don't stop pedalling!

Vélo

I think I saw the knog ones in cycleways the other day but I'm not sure. They're on Parnell street. If you go in there they'll be able to tell you exactly what you need.

I'd get spare tube, puncture repair kit or c02 cylinders and tyre leavers. You'll need allen keys or you could get a multi tool, which has a number of tools on it. For a single speed you won't need too much though.

blorg

Puncture repair kit, tube, tyre levers and pump as Aquinas suggests. Saddlebag good for carrying this stuff on the bike in case you puncture. Remember with a fixie you will need to carry a 15mm wrench to get the wheels off in case of a puncture.

Tesco do a set of cheap hex keys for something like 2.99. You can get ball-end ones for something like 7.99 in Woodies and they are nicer, they have more leverage and you can get in at an angle. You can get by with a multitool either which you can carry on the road, although individual wrenches are easier for home.

Apart from that the only things you might really need would be a pedal wrench (15mm) for getting the pedals on and off (remember to grease them), and a 15mm spanner for getting the wheel nuts off (don't use the pedal spanner for this, it is too thin.) I use one of these yolks which you can pick up in a bike shop for €3.50 or so, it is important to get something small you can carry with you:



A chain whip and lockring tool for changing the cog should you want to do that. Chain whip is not 100% essential as you can rotafix the cog. If you are getting one make sure to get it in the same width as your chain as there are two widths commonly used on fixed gear bikes (1/8" and 3/32", all geared bikes are the latter).

Park FR-6 and an adjustable wrench if you want to remove/change the freewheel (not really essential unless you will be swapping this around.)

You don't really need spanners for a modern bike- the only thing would be cone spanners which are thinner for the hubs (which you probably don't need to go near right now.) Cone spanners can be useful for centering the brakes although again probably not essential.

So

Essential:
- Hex wrenches or multitool
- 15mm pedal wrench- I'll sell you one for a fiver if you can pick up in Sandyford or Ranelagh
- 15mm portable wheel nut wrench
- Grease- always grease threads if you ever want to get it open again. ESPECIALLY the pedals. White lithium grease from a bike shop at €4-5 is fine.

Optional:
- Lockring tool (BB one will do)
- Chain whip
- Freewheel remover and adjustable wrench
- Cone spanners

TinyExplosions

I use a pedal spanner to remove wheelnuts and never had a problem with it

Gavin

I snapped a wrench similar to the ones in Blorgs image. I was trying to remove a very rusty tracknut and it just snapped. I cursed somewhat profusely as me hand was fairly battered.

blorg

Also essential- oil for the chain and degreaser for cleaning it. General cleaner for the bike, I like Fenwicks FS-1 as it works and dilutes to 11 litres per bottle. As regards oil I think the "wet" dripping stuff (not the spray) is best for this country. Drip into each link and wipe the excess off the chain after application.

A chain tool if you need to change the chain, plus a chainring nut tool if you want to change the front ring- but again these would go under "optional", you won't need them immediately.

@Tiny- From personal experience I find a pedal spanner can dig into the wheelnuts, I stopped using it before I did them too much damage. In any case I think you need something you can carry in the saddlebag in case you have a puncture.

@Gavin- I too have snapped one of these in the past on an old bike but if your nuts are greased (ooer) and in good condition they are fine for getting the wheel on and off, I use mine for this both on the road and at home now.

CheGuedara

Gavin wrote: »

I snapped a wrench similar to the ones in Blorgs image. I was trying to remove a very rusty tracknut and it just snapped. I cursed somewhat profusely as me hand was fairly battered.

Yup did the same myself helping out a new recruit before - really giving it socks trying to loosen the nut then *crack*, bruised nuckles and cursing...

When we eventually got the wheel off it took two of us, one holding the tube, the other the tyre to pull the old tube out - the thing had welded itself onto the inside!

david

Lots of good info here. I found a multitool job but I don't think it'd take too much pressure (and two 15 spanners I had for tuning bongos (!) ) . Just setting her up nice now.. Took her for her maiden spin Rathfarnham-Dundrum-Rathfarnham this morning (set up for freewheel) and it's perfect! Had a few scary moments alright as it was the first time i've cycled anything other than a homemade flat bar MTB/Hybrid, hopefully it won't take too long to get used to. I flipped the stem to have a more upright position, is this normal (ie personal preference)? How do you correctly flip the hub/release chain tension?

Should I stick to freewheel 'til I get used to the bike or throw myself in at the deep end?? (Bare in mind I won't be able to get my helmet from the 'rents house until next weekend :eek: )

Feels great to be back cycling!! (It'll have paid for itself in 5 months of bus tickets)

DirkVoodoo

The track nut tool that came with the felt is pretty cool, has a bottle opener. Too heavy to carry around in my pocket all the time opening bottles though, and I haven't yet found myself needing to crack open a brew after getting a flat.

flickerx

Gavin wrote: »

I snapped a wrench similar to the ones in Blorgs image. I was trying to remove a very rusty tracknut and it just snapped. I cursed somewhat profusely as me hand was fairly battered.

Exact same thing happened with me. I recommend against using those things, they're flimsy and awkward.

flickerx

blorg wrote: »

I use one of these yolks

Is it 'yolk' or 'yoke'? I would use the second version.

TinyExplosions

flickerx wrote: »

Is it 'yolk' or 'yoke'? I would use the second version.

I use both... first one on toast or with a fry up, and second one when I want to use my Oxen to pull a cart...

I'd usually go for 'yoke', but dunno why

blorg

@David- a multitool will provide enough torque for any of the small bolts (stem, headset, bottle cage, etc.) you might need to tighten on the bike. You do not need more leverage!

Flipping the stem is perfectly all right for a position that is more comfortable for you. Make sure you
adjust the headset right and re-tighten everything in the right order if you have just flipped the stem.

Getting chain tension right is a lot easier (in my opinion) with at least one chain tug on the drive side. Chain tugs allow fine adjustment and it there not much between a loose and correctly tensioned chain. You want it to be tight, but not too tight- this is complicated by the fact that chainrings do not tend to be perfectly round, so you will have it tighter at one point than another.

Fixed is a lot more fun than SS, you may as well dive in Personally I find clipless pedals very beneficial for fixed and would find toe clips and straps scary in traffic.

@Dirk- everything to do with fixies appears to have to include a fecking bottle opener That felt tool is designed to attach to the bottle cage bolts if I'm not mistaken?

NeilMcEoigheann

remember to keep the chain tension tight so it can't be taken off without loosening the rear wheel, and to tighten the wheel nuts well otherwise you can pull the rear wheel out when you lock the rear wheel..
go fixed it will take a week to learn but it is really enjoyable just dont forget its not a freewheel

blorg

flickerx wrote: »

Exact same thing happened with me. I recommend against using those things, they're flimsy and awkward.

I agree, and I've snapped one, but I have yet to come across something else I can carry in my saddlebag. Anything else portable? Have two fixies so preferably something that can go in the bag.

Thanks for the correction, I of course meant "yoke."

Karma

DirkVoodoo wrote: »

The track nut tool that came with the felt is pretty cool, has a bottle opener. Too heavy to carry around in my pocket all the time opening bottles though, and I haven't yet found myself needing to crack open a brew after getting a flat.

not carrying the right gear in your bag??? tool kit and 6 pack(for motivation);)

flickerx

blorg wrote: »

Fixed is a lot more fun than SS, you may as well dive in Personally I find clipless pedals very beneficial for fixed and would find toe clips and straps scary in traffic.

If people are having a go at fixed I think its easier to start with the toeclips first, just to get used to the motion of the pedals, and getting their feet into them, and then move onto something like the SPD pedals - especially if they havent used them before and arent used to clipping in and out. A friend of mine tried to start clipless and fixed at the same time, and nearly killed himself. He put the bike on singlespeed and got used to clipping in, and then moved to fixed after a while.

blorg

Fair point, I was used to SPDs before I went fixed. There is a fair amount of stuff (including skip stops) that I can't really do without the SPDs though. I generally find toe clips difficult to disengage from compared to clipless, unless you have them ridiculously loose.

The tax man

blorg wrote: »

Getting chain tension right is a lot easier (in my opinion) with at least one chain tug on the drive side.

Blorg thanks for that link,I've been searching high and low for them. Would I be correct in saying the 8mm will fit the Tricross?

Euro_Kraut

A great great thread title. Prop belongs more on the After Hours or Personal Problem forum though.

blorg

The tax man wrote: »

Blorg thanks for that link,I've been searching high and low for them. Would I be correct in saying the 8mm will fit the Tricross?

I think so, yes. I tried a Surly Tuggnut on my Tricross but it didn't fit due to my having a rack and mudguards- the mounting hole for these is very close to the track end. I reckon these ones would fit even in that situation, the bit that goes around the axle is much smaller. 8mm I think is as the aluminum ends are thicker.