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Paint or Tar on body Work

  • 07-02-2009 11:02am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,670 ✭✭✭


    This post has been deleted.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,309 ✭✭✭✭Quazzie


    Petrol and a genorous rub will get rid of tar better than most products you can buy in halfords.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 138 ✭✭Lashed


    Ya petrol will do the trick fine. Don't go too hard on it though or you'll start taking paint off. I'm guessing the orange specs are grit that was put on the roads because of the ice


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 933 ✭✭✭Furp


    WD40 also works great but you will need a lot of elbow grease.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,073 ✭✭✭homer90


    HOLTS Tar remover .......

    Spray on and leave for a few minutes then rub off . Tis good stuff!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 26,155 ✭✭✭✭Berty


    Arrrgghh I just de-tarred most of my time but got lazy and gave up.

    Next time I will pay Crystal clean the €15 to de-tar it.

    I use Turtle Wax bug n tar and a special tar removal sponge.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,795 ✭✭✭Neilw


    The best way to remove tar is with autosmart tardis or meguiars body solvent. Spray on leave for 1-2 mins and wipe off, no scrubbing needed as they dissolve the tar and it just drips off.

    You could also use a clay bar to remove the orange specs/tar.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,322 ✭✭✭MarkN


    I'd clay it first if I were you rather than use the other solutions (they will also work but you'll kill a few birds using a clay as it'll remove everything).

    Get a spray bottle fill it with car shampoo and water and spray it over each panel as you rub the clay bar over.

    Make sure you wax after. :p


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭Stevie Dakota


    Neilw wrote: »
    The best way to remove tar is with autosmart tardis or meguiars body solvent. Spray on leave for 1-2 mins and wipe off, no scrubbing needed as they dissolve the tar and it just drips off.

    Where can you get this stuff, de-tarred today and I'm wrecked!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 774 ✭✭✭Seperate


    I'd NEVER clay a car which has tar on it.

    The tar will go onto the clay and then you're rubbing stiff tar against your paintwork. Always do a good whip around with some kind of tar remover or body solvent before claying the car.

    All it takes is a bit of tar to get on the clay top and you've destroyed a half panel or full panel, depending on how much you tackle at once.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 610 ✭✭✭green-blood


    is the car parked anywhere near a building site!!!

    small orange flecks in paint, sounds a lot like the tiny fillings that go airborn around steel frame welding sites... they can get embedded and then rust, showing orange... had a problem with this in the job, showed on a good few light coloured cars.

    clay lifted it, but you had to break the clay bar into small piecves and not drag it around the place. that took a few lunch times


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,322 ✭✭✭MarkN


    Seperate wrote: »
    I'd NEVER clay a car which has tar on it.

    The tar will go onto the clay and then you're rubbing stiff tar against your paintwork. Always do a good whip around with some kind of tar remover or body solvent before claying the car.

    All it takes is a bit of tar to get on the clay top and you've destroyed a half panel or full panel, depending on how much you tackle at once.

    That's why you knead the clay. I don't wish to destroy the paint on my car, trust me.

    A clay bar takes everything off the paint, as well as tar. If what you say was the case then everything the clay takes off the surface would destroy the paint, I've used them for 6 years on cars and it doesn't anytime I've used them - even on black.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭TomMc


    Tar spots quite often have grit in the mix so even a soft clay bar will still not compensate or allow fully for same.

    Car paint is porous just like human skin. Clay bars are useful for paint overspray (that is what they were originally invented for by a Japanese guy), but they cannot deep clean the pores of the paint. That requires special degreasers, acidic and neutraliser washes. Fallout/chemical washes.

    Clay bars do not remove contaminants entirely nor neutralise acidic compounds. They only remove the top of the contaminant, leaving most of them still imbedded in the paint. They more or less just shave the head of the contaminant that is proud of the surface, no more.

    So while paint may look spotless to the eye and be as smooth as glass to the touch it is by no means fully decontaminated. Contaminants still present in paint pores will continue to generate damage.

    Using a fallout or specialist wash instead of clay is optimum as the chemical wash removes the contaminants, without the use of any mechanical friction.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,322 ✭✭✭MarkN


    So for the DIY car enthusiast on a Saturday afternoon a clay bar it is then :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 774 ✭✭✭Seperate


    MarkN wrote: »
    That's why you knead the clay. I don't wish to destroy the paint on my car, trust me.

    A clay bar takes everything off the paint, as well as tar. If what you say was the case then everything the clay takes off the surface would destroy the paint, I've used them for 6 years on cars and it doesn't anytime I've used them - even on black.

    Clay isn't designed to take big hard bits of tar off though. It's designed, as tom said above, to take off bonded contaminants that are usually too small to be seen.

    You would want to knead the clay after each and every 'stroke' on the car. I would usually knead the clay every say 8 strokes, depending on how bad the contaminants are. But say for example, you take off a bit of tar on the first stroke, then for 7 strokes after that, you had a small piece of hard tar rubbing against the paint.

    I know you don't want to damage your car, but i'm just saying that when you use a clay bar to get rid of tar, you do run the risk of damaging the paint. If you're ultra careful and knead the clay after every stroke, then you may very well be OK. It'd be 100 times easier to use a good tar remover.

    All in my own opinion, obviously.

    These pics show a good tar remover breaking down the tar; It's litteraly a case of spraying it on, leaving it for 30 seconds and then it simply wipes off. No rubbing the car involved, and zero chance of damaging the paint.

    15.jpg

    16.jpg

    17.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,670 ✭✭✭NiSmO


    This post has been deleted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 774 ✭✭✭Seperate


    NiSmO wrote: »
    This post has been deleted.

    You're in Dub 15? I can drop you over a small bottle of it to see if it does the trick.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 906 ✭✭✭JMSE


    Diesel, rub it on, leave a half hour then rub the tar off. Tar truckers use it, they spray it around the back door to stop it sticking. Tar crews spray it on their machines, they spray it on their shovels, environmentally they are a disaster.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,322 ✭✭✭MarkN


    I've used Holts tar remover before, it is good and it's an awful lot less effort than a clay I just love the 'wet' finish clay and a decent wax gives a car.


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