Thermal Imaging Camera

steeo

I am looking at getting the above done on the house I am in at the minute as I have the heating on full and there is a cold draught running throught the house from somewhere. The house is a 2 story timber framed house with the attic converted and it is 5 years old.

I have checked out all the usual suspects for draught like the attic (fully insulated floors, walls and roof), windows and shut all vents except in living room (open full time due to gas fire) and have even stuffed a pillow up the chimney (gas fire never switched on).

I don't know how much this process will cost yet but is it worth the money ??? and will it find my draught ???

Chimpster

steeo wrote: »

I am looking at getting the above done on the house I am in at the minute as I have the heating on full and there is a cold draught running throught the house from somewhere. The house is a 2 story timber framed house with the attic converted and it is 5 years old.

I have checked out all the usual suspects for draught like the attic (fully insulated floors, walls and roof), windows and shut all vents except in living room (open full time due to gas fire) and have even stuffed a pillow up the chimney (gas fire never switched on).

I don't know how much this process will cost yet but is it worth the money ??? and will it find my draught ???

It will find the draught once the guy knows how to use the camera!

For best results the thermography survey should be combined with a depressurisation of the house using a blower door. A 50 Pa difference between inside and out will help the camera to identify where the cold air is entering the building.

Ideally there should be at least 10 degrees of a temp difference between inside and out so its important that the heat is on for upto 12 hours before the test for good results.

MicktheMan

steeo wrote: »

I am looking at getting the above done on the house I am in at the minute as I have the heating on full and there is a cold draught running throught the house from somewhere. The house is a 2 story timber framed house with the attic converted and it is 5 years old.

I have checked out all the usual suspects for draught like the attic (fully insulated floors, walls and roof), windows and shut all vents except in living room (open full time due to gas fire) and have even stuffed a pillow up the chimney (gas fire never switched on).

I don't know how much this process will cost yet but is it worth the money ??? and will it find my draught ???

Yes it is if you get the right experienced professional to do it! pm sent

holdfast

PM me if you are in kerry or cork area.

steeo

Cheers for the replies, I am based in Dublin which is a bit away from ye.

Retro-Fit

Where are you based, I've recently picked up a FLIR-B high resolution camera from Cuthbertson Laird up North hi. Its the dogs, It costs more than my car but can detect moisture and insulation, it can sense 0.1 of a degree on a surface 20 meters away. Its so effective you don't need the heat or to put on the blower door.

Your draft could be from exposed timber suspended floor, holes in the wall for services, but I would all I own on the attic being open to the eaves. The eaves have much lower pressure than than the air at ground level, so your building is acting as a chimney, sucking air from downstairs. Easily fixed.

steeo

Retro-Fit wrote: »

Your draft could be from exposed timber suspended floor, holes in the wall for services, but I would all I own on the attic being open to the eaves. The eaves have much lower pressure than than the air at ground level, so your building is acting as a chimney, sucking air from downstairs. Easily fixed.

I thought it might have been the attic but are you not supposed to leave some air circulation in the attic ???

holdfast

what the detector on it retrofit and resolution

Retro-Fit

Flir B400 has 320x240 resolution sensitivity, 0.05 to 30 degrees

The cold side of the insulation and the top 50mm of the timber rafters should be ventilated, the habitable room should be enclosed with a continuous breathable air barrier on the warm-side of continuous dense insulation of less than 0.2 U-value. Quilt is useless in dealing with summer overheating.

A habitable room in an attic above second floor should be fire separated from the rooms below have a 450x450 opening section as escape, an L2 smoke detector and alarm and the stair and entrance hall should be fire seperated from the rest of the house.

Chimpster

Retro-Fit wrote: »

Its so effective you don't need the heat or to put on the blower door.

I surveyed a house with a 320 x 240 NEC TH9100 last week and took some pretty good images, it was 2 degrees outside and 17 degrees inside. I then re surveyed with whilst the house by being depressurised.... 50 Pa difference.

I've been looking at the images last night and there are noticable differences between the 2 sets of images.

holdfast

Have the same camera as above, Was messing about in my own house yesterday doing an air tightness test and using the camera. Have to saythe photos came out way better during and after the test. Air Permeability@ 50 Pa (m³/h.m²) 3.57 3.66 3.61. Happy with that

okofen

Retro-Fit wrote: »

Where are you based, I've recently picked up a FLIR-B high resolution camera from Cuthbertson Laird up North hi. Its the dogs, It costs more than my car but can detect moisture and insulation, it can sense 0.1 of a degree on a surface 20 meters away. Its so effective you don't need the heat or to put on the blower door.

Your draft could be from exposed timber suspended floor, holes in the wall for services, but I would all I own on the attic being open to the eaves. The eaves have much lower pressure than than the air at ground level, so your building is acting as a chimney, sucking air from downstairs. Easily fixed.

can you tell mw how much this camera cost please, i am looking for a good camera that will help me pinpoint leaks in central heating systems,any suggestions?