Car failed NCT... Help!

dash08

Hi, I had my 1996 Micra NCT'd yesterday and it failed on a lot. I was wondering if anyone could give me an idea on how much it's going to cost to get all the things fixed. I have had a bad experience of being ripped off by a garage in the past, as I am not knowledgable about cars and was probably seen as an easy target. I want to be a bit better prepared this time, so any advice any would be greatly appreciated!

First on the list is under the heading Brake Test. It says the rear axle imbalance is 35% where it should have been <30%. Also, the brake effort was 49%, when it should have been >55%.

Under the Head Light Aim section: The Dip Beam on nearside is too high.

Under Visual Defects section: the car is missing a washer piece, so I can only wash one side of the windscreen. The middle rear stop lamp is not working. One of the tyre's tread is less than 1.6mm. The others are less than 3.00mm so he said to pass I only need to get one new tyre but he would advise getting all 4 done.
The last thing is something to do with the front suspension locking device, he said there is a ball joint missing.

So that's the list. On top of that, the man told me that the car has a lot of corrosion and told me it might fail on this in it's next test in two years time, so advised me to get a new car by then. I am just wondering if it is really worth my while getting all this stuff done, if it's going to cost a fortune. I'm stressing a bit over all this, as I really need the car at the moment as I've just started a course and I have to drop my baby to the childminder's and picke her up again everyday and I just couldn't continue without the use of a car. Can anyone advise me how much it will cost to fix? Thanks!

sammy657

For the price of getting it all done buy a car for about 1000 with an nct and tax mate

dash08

If I had that E1000 to spare I would get a new car but unfortunately I haven't, so I'm stuck with the ol' banger for the moment!

Dartz

Could just need a service, really.

I mean, if the brake fluid was gone off, it could affect the brakes.
Replacing a stop-lamp bulb on an old Micra should be easy enough.
Tyres should be replaced anyway...

Don't know what exactly wou mean by front suspension ball join 'missing' though.

dash08

Thanks Dartz, I am not sure exactly what he meant either, he said there was a bit missing on the locking device that would mean that someone could take it off. I looked at him blankly, and he turned the Fail sheet over and there is a picture of a car on the other side, where he wrote the words 'ball joint' over one of the front wheels. I tried to ask exactly what that meant but he just said to take it to a garage and they would know.
So how much do you think a new set of tyres should cost? And how much to have the Dip beam lowered? I was going to go to a scrap yard to get a new windscreen washer, and just ask the garage to fit it, or would that be a waste of time? They couldn't charge too much for such a little part could they?

CharlieCroker

tyre's that small (assuming 13") prob €30-50 each
Washer jet - go to the scrapyard
Ball joint - better off getting new. Motor factors would be able to order it for you but go to a mechanic to make sure you get the right one.
Brake light - bulb will cost about €1

dash08

Thanks CharlieCroker, that's made me feel a bit better. Any idea for cost of fixing the brakes?

Avns1s

Probably need pads / Shoes (and possibly discs). If you don't need discs, I'd expect in the region of €200 for pads & shoes and labour on a micra.

Brake fluid wouldn't have anythng to do with the problem!

dash08

Ok, that's a bit steeper than I would have hoped for, but I guess not as bad as it could have been. Thanks for all your replies. I will have to start ringing around a few garages. Can anyone recommend one in the Tallaght area?

carface

hi dash,your suspenion locking (balljoint)problem may be as simple as a missing split pin used to lock ball joint nut in place. simple fix if so.

Darragh29

OP can you post up the actual brake fail data???

I should be able to give you a good idea of price with a little more info from the NCT fail sheet. It looks like you have a wheel cylinder seized on one side of the car or a brake shoe with a lining worn down.

This problem can be resolved for around 150 Euro maximum, by replacing the wheel cylinders and brake shoes on both sides. I see your handbrake as well as the pedal brake is failing for brake imbalance, so I'd say there is a brake shoe with a lining worn down that is the cause of the problem with the brakes. You could also have a handbrake cable problem in addition to the pedal problem but I doubt that you have and I'd get the mechanic to check the operation of the handbrake cables after replacing brake shoes and wheel cylinders, which have to be replaced anyway to sort out the imbalance problem on the pedal brake.

The headlamp alignment should be easy to resolve at 20 Euro for a headlamp alignment.

The locking device comment about the ball joint, this is just a split pin missing that is used to "lock" the ball joint retaining nut in position. This pin can be bought in any motor factor or decent hardware shop for around 20 Cent.

A tyre would typically cost you 65-75 Euro.

The washer nozzle on the bonnet you could get in a scrapyard for probably around 10 Euro.

I'd say you'd easily get this through an NCT for around 250 Euro, certainly shouldn't be any more than that...

Edit: I forgot the brake light bulb, 2-3 Euro in a motor factor, 2 minutes to change...

dash08

Thanks Darragh29 your thorough reply! That would be great if it only costs E250. I'll be very happy with that. I think he did mention something about a pin, so that's great if it is as simple as that.
This is all the info under the brake section:

front axle: brake effort- nearside 1.62kN offside 1.57kN
ovality- nearside 14% offside 20%
Imbalance 3%

Rear axle: brake effort- nearside 0.42kN offside 0.65kN
ovality- nearside 0% offside 0%
Imbalance 35%

Parking brake: brake effort- nearside 0.79kN offside 1.03kN
Imbalance 23%

Brake Performance (car weight 894kg)
Brake effort 49%
Parking 21%

Does that give you any more idea to what the problems are with them? Thanks again for your help.

Darragh29

Yeah the problem here OP is at the rear wheel on the Nearside (passenger) side of the car. This wheel is not providing enough of a braking effort, with respect to the braking effort occurring at the wheel on the drivers side.

The problem here is not the handbrake cable, but either one of the three below, both of which would be fully resolved by replacing brake shoes and wheel cylinders on the rear axle...

(!) Either the wheel cylinder is seized at the passenger side rear brake drum...

(2) Or the brake lining is worn on this side...

(3) The wheel cylinder is leaking brake fluid and has contaminated the brake shoe lining, causing loss of friction and hence brake effort at this wheel...

The best practice response to this problem from a garage perspective is to replace both brake shoes and wheel cylinders on both wheels... This should cost no more than 150 Euro. The other issues you have a trivial, and should be easily resolved.

dash08

Thats great news. I can now go into the garage and tell them all that and they will think I know what I'm talking about, so will be less likely to try to rip me off. Thanks so much, you've been a great help!

Darragh29

dash08 wrote: »

Thats great news. I can now go into the garage and tell them all that and they will think I know what I'm talking about, so will be less likely to try to rip me off. Thanks so much, you've been a great help!

As NCT problem rectification goes, this is very easy to resolve. Micra's have a history of rust around the sills so I wouldn't mind your man making a reference to that particular issue.

Let me know how you get on and if you have any issues just PM me...

Armin_Tamzarian

It would be ideal if you knew some mechaic that you trusted or
if you have a friend / family member who knows a mechanic who
can be trusted to carry out the work satisfactorily for a reasonable price.

Unfortunately there are quite a few chancers out there.
For example, my elderly aunt recently took her car into a garage to
have everything sorted out and ended up being talked into spending alot of money on work which was over the top and unnecessary for the most part.
Even the guy doing the NCT testing commented that it looked like someone had being doing more work on the car than was necessary.

By the sounds of your post it sounds like you don't know any mechanic.
A solution to the braking problem might be to take the car to a Kwikfit, if there's one close to you.
Alot of these Kwikfit type places will do the headlight alignment for around €20 and I'd be surprised if they wouldn't replace your blown light bulbs too.

I used one some years ago on an old car that's brakes were pretty much all seized up.
They were happy to give the car a free inspection to find out what was needed doing and then they gave me a quote for the work required.
I ended up being quoted alot less than I was expecting and the work they carried out was spot on.

Alternatively, if you can find a mechanic who will inspect the car and give you a free quotation then you're laughing.
I've found mechanics like this harder to find as they usually start charging as soon as they go near the car, which is understandable as some problems take a while to diagnose.

If you want to keep costs down I'd be avoiding the Nissan dealership
and try to steer clear of anyone who is ambiguous about giving you a cost estimate.

Best of luck and I hope you get your car sorted without breaking the bank and don't let anyone talk you into getting any extra work done.
If in doubt just got somewhere else for a second opinion.

CamperMan

didn't you think of giving the NCT tester a €100 back hander??:D

Dartz

Don't worry if he's changing the brakes on both sides... might well be that if you only replace the one set, you'll end up with too much braking force on the replaced side, and an opposite imbalance.

I know somebody who got a nasty shock because of that.

old boy

inquire from friends and guys in the pub for the names of reputible indys, take your list to them get a price, compare prices, the tyre should only cost about 35 lids, check out a few tyre fitting places, the yellow pages + fone calls are cheaper than petrol.

unkel

dash08 wrote: »

so I'm stuck with the ol' banger for the moment!

Whatever you do, get the tyre with the thread depth of less than 1.6mm replaced immediately. It's best to change the tyre on the other side on the same axel at the same time and very soon you need to change the other 2 tyres too.

Darragh29

Armin_Tamzarian wrote: »

It would be ideal if you knew some mechaic that you trusted or
if you have a friend / family member who knows a mechanic who
can be trusted to carry out the work satisfactorily for a reasonable price.

Unfortunately there are quite a few chancers out there.
For example, my elderly aunt recently took her car into a garage to
have everything sorted out and ended up being talked into spending alot of money on work which was over the top and unnecessary for the most part.
Even the guy doing the NCT testing commented that it looked like someone had being doing more work on the car than was necessary.

By the sounds of your post it sounds like you don't know any mechanic.
A solution to the braking problem might be to take the car to a Kwikfit, if there's one close to you.
Alot of these Kwikfit type places will do the headlight alignment for around €20 and I'd be surprised if they wouldn't replace your blown light bulbs too.

I used one some years ago on an old car that's brakes were pretty much all seized up.
They were happy to give the car a free inspection to find out what was needed doing and then they gave me a quote for the work required.
I ended up being quoted alot less than I was expecting and the work they carried out was spot on.

Alternatively, if you can find a mechanic who will inspect the car and give you a free quotation then you're laughing.
I've found mechanics like this harder to find as they usually start charging as soon as they go near the car, which is understandable as some problems take a while to diagnose.

If you want to keep costs down I'd be avoiding the Nissan dealership
and try to steer clear of anyone who is ambiguous about giving you a cost estimate.

Best of luck and I hope you get your car sorted without breaking the bank and don't let anyone talk you into getting any extra work done.
If in doubt just got somewhere else for a second opinion.

I wouldn't be putting any weight behind the several conspiracy theories set out above OP. Any reputable garage would deal with this issue by replacing the brake shoes and wheel cylinders on the rear axle, even though you only have a problem on one half (the passenger side) or that axle. When you have an NCT fail issue, you cannot be "screwed" as suggested above. There is a list of tasks in black and white and all a garage has to do is resolve them.

Unfortunately many people who come on this forum do not understand that with car ownership, comes car maintenance. As much as we would like cars to service and maintain themselves, they don't.

The same people who begrudge mechanics and garages charging them for work done to their car, think nothing of throwing thousands at a holiday or other projects that they can brag about...

You have a list of items that you need resolved, just shop around and get prices for the work that is required and if anyone quotes you more than 300 Euro, then forget them. I think around 250 Euro with an NCT pass guarantee is an excellent deal here for you...

Armin_Tamzarian

I don't believe I set out several conspiracy theories.
You seem to misunderstand me some what.
I certainly wouldn't begrudge anyone getting paid fairly for doing a job well.
The majority of garages are probably operate fairly but all I was pointing out is that, like any trade there are rogue's out there that will
take advantage when they can.

People can be too quick to generalise and label all mechanics as crooks.
I certainly wouldn't and in my post the one example I gave of work I had carried out was positve.

As with the other posters I merely added what small advice I could, which I felt might be beneficial to the person in getting the car repaired at a reasonable price.
Unfortunately I have come across several examples of rip offs by mechanics and I wouldn't like to see anyone fall victim to such a practice.

The figure of €250 that you arrived at cetainly sound reasonable and I of course agree that the brakes on both sides of the axle should be renewed at the same time.

As I said before, I feel that the best advice is to try to get a free quotation in writing before commencing work and be wary of any further work that gets recommeded thatg doesn't relate to any of the NCT failures.

Again, best of luck and I hope you get your car sorted for a reasonable price.

Darragh29

Armin_Tamzarian wrote: »

I don't believe I set out several conspiracy theories.
You seem to misunderstand me some what.
I certainly wouldn't begrudge anyone getting paid fairly for doing a job well.
The majority of garages are probably operate fairly but all I was pointing out is that, like any trade there are rogue's out there that will
take advantage when they can.

People can be too quick to generalise and label all mechanics as crooks.
I certainly wouldn't and in my post the one example I gave of work I had carried out was positve.

As with the other posters I merely added what small advice I could, which I felt might be beneficial to the person in getting the car repaired at a reasonable price.
Unfortunately I have come across several examples of rip offs by mechanics and I wouldn't like to see anyone fall victim to such a practice.

The figure of €250 that you arrived at cetainly sound reasonable and I of course agree that the brakes on both sides of the axle should be renewed at the same time.

As I said before, I feel that the best advice is to try to get a free quotation in writing before commencing work and be wary of any further work that gets recommeded thatg doesn't relate to any of the NCT failures.

Again, best of luck and I hope you get your car sorted for a reasonable price.

I don't see why any further work would be recommended or advised, over and above what is stated on the NCT fail sheet. The motor industry has it's cowboys, just like every other industry. It's now fashionable with the current doom and gloom mentality, to suggest than anyone out there trying to get a weekly wage, is somehow out to "screw you".

The same theme is emerging on this forum again and again and again, "watch out, beware, they're out to screw you". I'm getting a bit sick of it to be honest. If you don't want to accept car maintenance costs, grand, get a bike.

Armin_Tamzarian

Darragh29 wrote: »

I don't see why any further work would be recommended or advised, over and above what is stated on the NCT fail sheet. The motor industry has it's cowboys, just like every other industry. It's now fashionable with the current doom and gloom mentality, to suggest than anyone out there trying to get a weekly wage, is somehow out to "screw you".

The same theme is emerging on this forum again and again and again, "watch out, beware, they're out to screw you". I'm getting a bit sick of it to be honest. If you don't want to accept car maintenance costs, grand, get a bike.

I'm a tradesman myself so I know only too well about some people being nervous of being screwed.
I don't blame them really though, especially after watching shows such as 'Rogue Traders' and similar shows about the motor industry.

Regarding the further work that could be recommended or advised.
To expand upon the example I gave of my aunt.
The brake pads needed replacing, this was done but the mechanic also replaced the handbrake shoes even though they had passed.
Also, the rear section of the exhaust needed replacing but this chancer went and changed the entire exhaust.
All four shocks were replaced, even though only the rear near side one failed, which presumably meant that only both back shocks should have been done.

Darragh29

Armin_Tamzarian wrote: »

I'm a tradesman myself so I know only too well about some people being nervous of being screwed.
I don't blame them really though, especially after watching shows such as 'Rogue Traders' and similar shows about the motor industry.

Regarding the further work that could be recommended or advised.
To expand upon the example I gave of my aunt.
The brake pads needed replacing, this was done but the mechanic also replaced the handbrake shoes even though they had passed.
Also, the rear section of the exhaust needed replacing but this chancer went and changed the entire exhaust.
All four shocks were replaced, even though only the rear near side one failed, which presumably meant that only both back shocks should have been done.

I'm slowly starting to come to the realisation that people need to start becoming "informed" consumers. People who own a car should be able to have a fluent conversation with the people that they are paying to resolve issues with their car. There is a very obvious knowledge gap that causes people to become immediately "entrenched", when they are told that they need X, Y or Z done to their car. It's up to people who own cars, to start educating themsleves with regard to what is happening. Mechanics and garages at the end of the day should not be expected to be educators...

gussieg

funny, after spending 300 on repairs, another 80 on tyres,with a spare car (100)given for parts, i went to the test and failed on headlights aim too high, and a back brake light not working, plus , emissions were too high 0.37 and the max allowed was 0.3 and the lambda .... I'm a bit vague about .
the garage had the car for three days, changed over a window, and instead of replacing a cv boot, took the whole drive shaft off the spare car. I had asked them to change over the drivers seat as mine has been well sat on by somebody who likes their food, they said it was too tricky or time consuming, they had a go at changing over the exhaust but said it was too tricky , and have told me i need to get a cat put in and that MIGHT fix the problem. another 200 plus.
the nct tester said that also the exhaust pipe had been welded on back to front , so thats another reason he failed it , i realise now i could have probably got another car in good nick for this price, but i LOVE my little car, and she got me through the driving test, cant turn my back on her now. Is there any way i can get this done cheaper or definitely pass through the test again? shes a 97 subaru vivio, thanks

Armin_Tamzarian

Darragh29 wrote: »

I'm slowly starting to come to the realisation that people need to start becoming "informed" consumers. People who own a car should be able to have a fluent conversation with the people that they are paying to resolve issues with their car. There is a very obvious knowledge gap that causes people to become immediately "entrenched", when they are told that they need X, Y or Z done to their car. It's up to people who own cars, to start educating themsleves with regard to what is happening.

Yes I agree completely.
I presume that you are a mechanic yourself?
I've seen a good few of your posts and you should be commended for all the sound, free advice you give out.

Unfortunately, especially for people like my aunt, who are quite elderly, to try gain an understanding of the workings of a car would be overwhelming.

I'm no mechanic but I'm very interested in cars and try to learn as much as possible.
However there are certain areas where I'd be lost.
Mechanics could tell me I need such and such a bearing, seal or gasket replaced and I'd be clueless as to whether they were telling the truth or not.

Similarly in my trade, if I were dishonest I could easily talk people into all sorts of unnecessary extra work.

A good mechanic I used to go to once told me that a good indication that a mechanic is on the level is if he keeps the old parts he has replaced and offers them to you to take away, when the work is completed.

Darragh29

gussieg wrote: »

funny, after spending 300 on repairs, another 80 on tyres,with a spare car (100)given for parts, i went to the test and failed on headlights aim too high, and a back brake light not working, plus , emissions were too high 0.37 and the max allowed was 0.3 and the lambda .... I'm a bit vague about .
the garage had the car for three days, changed over a window, and instead of replacing a cv boot, took the whole drive shaft off the spare car. I had asked them to change over the drivers seat as mine has been well sat on by somebody who likes their food, they said it was too tricky or time consuming, they had a go at changing over the exhaust but said it was too tricky , and have told me i need to get a cat put in and that MIGHT fix the problem. another 200 plus.
the nct tester said that also the exhaust pipe had been welded on back to front , so thats another reason he failed it , i realise now i could have probably got another car in good nick for this price, but i LOVE my little car, and she got me through the driving test, cant turn my back on her now. Is there any way i can get this done cheaper or definitely pass through the test again? shes a 97 subaru vivio, thanks

Obviously in this case the garage didn't have the necessary equipment (headlamp beam aligner and/or emissions test equipment), to properly prepare your car for the NCT, or else possibly did have the equipment but did not have proper operating protocols in place to be in a position to put your car through the necessary series of checks and inspections, with regard to successfully meeting the NCT criteria...

Armin_Tamzarian

gussieg wrote: »

they had a go at changing over the exhaust but said it was too tricky ,

The mechaic claimed that fitting a new seat and exhaust would be 'too trick'!
That's priceless, I'm sure I'd manage the seat myself ffs.

The most annoying NCT failure I ever had was on an A4.
They said that the battery wasn't bolted down securely enough and
that if I had an accident and the car flipped over that the battery might short off the bonnet and start a fire.
This despite the fact that.
a) The entire inside of the bonnet was completely insulated.
b) The battery was wedged in so tight that it was impossible to remove
it without removing some other parts.
There's no way it could have budged.

At the risk of being a conspiracy theorist :rolleyes:, I've heard before that certain NCT centres with a low level of business try harder to fail cars
as this means a retest, i.e. more work for them so that their positions are
validated and nobody is put at risk of being laid off due to lack of custom.
I can't comment on the truth of this, it's just a rumour I've heard but
it sounds like it makes sense.

Darragh29

Armin_Tamzarian wrote: »

Yes I agree completely.
I presume that you are a mechanic yourself?
I've seen a good few of your posts and you should be commended for all the sound, free advice you give out.

Unfortunately, especially for people like my aunt, who are quite elderly, to try gain an understanding of the workings of a car would be overwhelming.

I'm no mechanic but I'm very interested in cars and try to learn as much as possible.
However there are certain areas where I'd be lost.
Mechanics could tell me I need such and such a bearing, seal or gasket replaced and I'd be clueless as to whether they were telling the truth or not.

Similarly in my trade, if I were dishonest I could easily talk people into all sorts of unnecessary extra work.

A good mechanic I used to go to once told me that a good indication that a mechanic is on the level is if he keeps the old parts he has replaced and offers them to you to take away, when the work is completed.

Every mechanic in my opinion should do that. I don't want to go off topic on this, but the tasks at hand with regard to this particular thead are extremely straight forward.

Armin_Tamzarian

Yes, I think that the OP has been given enough advice to make sure that they get the work done reasonably, at least I hope so.

Here's a classic example of someone getting ripped off by a mechanic...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wXY5Xs0zVo

Darragh29

Armin_Tamzarian wrote: »

The mechaic claimed that fitting a new seat and exhaust would be 'too trick'!
That's priceless, I'm sure I'd manage the seat myself ffs.

The most annoying NCT failure I ever had was on an A4.
They said that the battery wasn't bolted down securely enough and
that if I had an accident and the car flipped over that the battery might short off the bonnet and start a fire.
This despite the fact that.
a) The entire inside of the bonnet was completely insulated.
b) The battery was wedged in so tight that it was impossible to remove
it without removing some other parts.
There's no way it could have budged.

Your battery is either:

(1) Fully secure

(2) Unsecure

If your battery is not secure, it can come into contact with many earth positions on the car and cause a fire or explosion, hence why it has to be fully secured, not partially secured, exceptions none.

Armin_Tamzarian wrote: »

At the risk of being a conspiracy theorist :rolleyes:, I've heard before that certain NCT centres with a low level of business try harder to fail cars
as this means a retest, i.e. more work for them so that their positions are
validated and nobody is put at risk of being laid off due to lack of custom.
I can't comment on the truth of this, it's just a rumour I've heard but
it sounds like it makes sense.

I heard a rumour that the Freemasons were behind the introduction of the NCT to Ireland and have sleeper cells in NCT centres all over the country and discuss national and county wide pass-fail rates at their monthly lodge meetings in Molesworth Street. Don't believe all that you hear!

Here are the facts with the NCT. There isn't an NCT centre in Ireland that you can ring in the morning and get an apointment for a test within the next week, so they are clearly busy enough at the moment...

Armin_Tamzarian

Darragh29 wrote: »

I heard a rumour that the Freemasons were behind the introduction of the NCT to Ireland and have sleeper cells in NCT centres all over the country and discuss national and county wide pass-fail rates at their monthly lodge meetings in Molesworth Street. Don't believe all that you hear!

lol

RE the battery, I was very busy at the time at there was some problem getting a bracket like the tester had required.
I took the car back for a re-test without doing anything to the battery.
I made some joke about the fact that the battery couldn't move and the only thing it could come in contact with was the moulded plastic grille
that sits underneath the wipers.
He gave the impression that he thought it was a ridiculous reason to fail and passed my straight away.

Darragh29

Armin_Tamzarian wrote: »

lol

RE the battery, I was very busy at the time at there was some problem getting a bracket like the tester had required.
I took the car back for a re-test without doing anything to the battery.
I made some joke about the fact that the battery couldn't move and the only thing it could come in contact with was the moulded plastic grille
that sits underneath the wipers.
He gave the impression that he thought it was a ridiculous reason to fail and passed my straight away.

Well he clearly isn't serious about his job. It's a very obvious NCT fail, certainly one that I would be looking for from the very outset. If he wants to throw his eyes up to heaven and agree with you when the fact remains that an unsecured battery can float around even a small distance and become a very real fire hazard, then that is his business. You wouldn't be agreeing with him if your kids were in the back seat someday and the flames started coming out of the engine compartment because the positive terminal of the battery eventually found an earth and a major fire ensued, by which the way, your insurance company will not pay out on under any circumstances... As someone with insurance accessor experience, I can assure you of this.

Gary ITR

I had a battery come loose on me a couple of months back and the engine bay ended up in flames. The bracket hadn't been bolted back in properly by the garage. I nearly lost my precious mk2 Golf GTI. Only fireman Sam here put the fire out with Coca-Cola and two bottles of Auto Glym.

gussieg

thanks , i would have and did try to change over the seats but i didnt know how or wasnt strong enough. with help, i changed the oil, plugs, leads, distributor cap, headlight, backlight and wiper blades, very proud of myself and because i just couldnt afford to get someone else to do it for me. the new plugs i put in are dead fancy, so even if the exhaust is in ribbons, its vrumming along very nicely now
most ladies who go shopping would be dying to show you theie new boots, i was flashing my new spark plugs.
just waiting for the brake pads to ocme in the post from some chap off ebay. any day now i hope.

gussieg

"I heard a rumour that the Freemasons were behind the introduction of the NCT to Ireland and have sleeper cells in NCT centres all over the country and discuss national and county wide pass-fail rates at their monthly lodge meetings in Molesworth Street. Don't believe all that you hear! "


molesworth street is it- right so where do i roll my trouser leg up ?

Pattylou

Hi Daragh,
Thank you so much for all your information, I have found it most helpful. I have just failed my NCT on just one issue : the above. I havn't got a clue about cars so I asked the examiner could he be a bit more specific as to what exactly was wrong so I could go and get it fixed and he told me he could'nt, he didn't know what was causing it. I am 61 years of age and don't have that much money so I have to be careful. I rang around to see if I could get more info on the problem and I was given the run around to put it midly. Anyway armed with the info you gave me on leaking cylinders ect. I getting somewhere. One garage said that they knew I had to replace my cylinders and pads , even though they hadn't even seen the car. How come if the cylinders were leaking, there was no visable sign of it during the test, and why would'nt the examiner have just told me to buy cylinders and pads and taken me out of my misery.