Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Vapour barrier advise(PICS)

  • 17-01-2009 12:26pm
    #1
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭


    here's a few pics of the build I am currently on. I am at the insulation stage.

    . This is roof. I know it need collars and I am getting planed timber Beams next week for it.
    DSC00098__Large_.JPG

    The question I need to ask is about the vapour barrier.

    I was going to use clear 500 plastic and seal the whole roof , right to the ridge. Would there be any advantage to leaving an area unsealed at the ridge. I seen it done before and I have doubt in my head now. The room has a 6" vent on the wall.

    It is getting an insulated slab as well as this 100mm xtratherm inso.

    DSC00099__Large_.JPG

    the place should be very warm.

    here a few more. any input would greatly received.
    Its a renovation with 2 big extensions on each side of the house.
    DSC00102__Large_.JPG
    DSC00104__Large_.JPG

    all the work is mine so go easy on me


Comments

  • #2
    RKQ
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    Looks good, keep up the good work.:)

    I'd seal between the foil insulation and each timber rafter / batten to increase air tightness. Thin bead of foam.

    I used Proclima vapour barrier stapled to rafters, with all joins overlapped and taped. Its supposed to open up in summer to release any trapped moisture. I assume 500 guage plastic would be ok.

    I'd seal over ridge board if possible.
    With walls - allow battens for curtain poles, shelves, wall cabinets, LCD TV, wall lights etc.


  • #3
    Poor Uncle Tom
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    Coming along nicely. 500G would be fine with the insulated plasterboard over as you say. As RKQ pointed out leave your grounds.

    On the first picture are the uprights meeting the rafters? is there a purlin behind the meeting joint? I'm just curious.


  • #4
    Do-more
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,748 ✭✭✭Do-more


    Have you been pulling stuff out of skips again? :D

    invest4deepvalue.com



  • #5
    gsxr1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    Poor Uncle Tom wrote: »
    Coming along nicely. 500G would be fine with the insulated plasterboard over as you say. As RKQ pointed out leave your grounds.

    On the first picture are the uprights meeting the rafters? is there a purlin behind the meeting joint? I'm just curious.

    the roof is sitting on a wall plate nailed to a cavity block. The uprights are only 50mm batons , steel nailed to the blocks. That is part of the new work.

    the client has refused to involve an arc tech so I am on my own with this build with the advise of a good bricky and a friendly engineer that I know, to keep me on track. Not 100% comfortable with this but the way work is a the moment , im just glad to get the work.

    As I said. It badly needs collars . Hope to be bolting some fancy 3X6 PAO by wed.

    FAO- DO_MORE

    ye wanna see the skip in this gaff. full to the neck with the best of gear;)


Advertisement