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Problems with oil heating system

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  • 28-12-2008 3:10pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7


    Hi all, have read a lot of the previous posts about heating problems and learned a lot but have not been able to sort my own problem. When i start my heating I can hear it fire up for a while and then it cuts out, and a red light comes on next to the thermostat. When this light comes on the system will not fire up again.

    I have been having problems lately with the system, the rads need to be bled every other day, and there is a lot of "gurgling" type noises coming from the attic. The tank in the attic seems to be constantly refilling, suggesting there might be a leak, but no evidence of one around the house. I have tried turning off all rads and it still won't fire up. All the valves appear to be open. I had 2 new rads installed in bathrooms recently so could these be an issue. Even turning them off won't get the system working. I have checked the flow of oil into the bentone and it is flowing fine.

    Any suggestions, its freezing!!
    John
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Sounds like you have a leak in the system if you have constant gurgling and needing to bleed the rads. Have you checked the level of water in your attic tank (smaller of the two)? (open system)

    Let us know if its a closed system. (Pressure vessel close to the the boiler).

    I think you also have a problem with the boiler itself. Have you had it serviced recently. Sounds like the nozzle could do with being replaced and/or the pressure being checked.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,559 ✭✭✭Tipsy Mac


    Ata guess I'd say it could be the water pumps gone and so the boiler is heating the water but it's not getting pumped around the system and so it eventually shuts down as the water hits max temperature and is not going to the radiators.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 jvon


    Thanks lads,
    The tank in the attic is constantly going low and then refilling via the ball cock. If I fill it all the way to top, it still empties very quickly and the ball cock kicks in within 10 15 minutes. I feared a leak alright but thought i would be able to see the evidence. Its a while since it was serviced, but the bentone is only about 18 months old ( i had the old one replaced)so thought this would not be the problem. The system had been working until I came back from few days away, but with the problems i mentioned (gurgling, constant bleeding needed).
    Looks like a job for plumber.
    John


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    John, have you a gunbarrell piped system by any chance?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 jvon


    Avns1s,

    I'd love to be able to answer that one but unfortunately all the pictures in my house hide holes created by my "DIY"!!!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Ok point taken. ;)

    It still sounds very much like a leak. If its underground, it may be very hard to find. No signs of any wet patches? Blistering of paint at the bottoms of the walls?

    I am taking it that your reference to the tank constantly losing water is regardless of whether the boiler is running?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 jvon


    Nothing jumping out at me regarding leaks or damaged paint work. I think the tank only keeps refilling while the boiler is switched on, but will have to check that one.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 jvon


    Just checked and the tank is losing water even when the system is off, Suppose that means leak alright, should I tie up the ball cock and let the tank drain until I can have the pipes checked to prevent further damage, wherever it may be?? :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Unless there's a sign of damage I'd be inclined to leave it running. Otherwise you'll never find it without ripping out all of the pipework.

    Is your boiler in a shed back from the house... in other words, could it be pipework in betwen the boiler house and the house itself?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 jvon


    No the boiler is in the kitchen, so that rules that one out. I'll leave it running so, should i leave the system on in the hope that it kicks in eventually or will this do damage. either way i'll look for a plumber, thanks for your help Avns1s.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    I'd leave the water on but keep a very close eye for any sign of dampness which on the positive side will hopefully indicate the location of the leak.

    I wouldn't run the boiler at all. There seems to be little point, as the heated water seems to be going into the ground.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    Avns1s wrote: »
    I'd leave the water on but keep a very close eye for any sign of dampness which on the positive side will hopefully indicate the location of the leak.

    I wouldn't run the boiler at all. There seems to be little point, as the heated water seems to be going into the ground.

    He's right! But in addition, if there's a leak and the attic tank is continuously refilling, then you will be pumping oxygenated water through all of your radiators, and that will destroy them very quickly. One possibility -- have you noticed any discolouration in your hot water in (say) the bathroom?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    You certainly have a leak in your system. The red light beside the thermostat on the boiler comes on because the high limit stat is popping out, and that is happening because of a lack of water in the boiler. Can you look into the boiler - it could be burst. The water could be leaking into the boiler and evaporating - depends on the type of boiler - what make and how old ?
    It might also be leaking from the coil into the cylinder as ART6 says.
    Jim.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 jvon


    Just a quick update lads. Got it fixed yesterday, the circulating pump was broken so once that was replaced everything worked fine again. Thanks for all the help.
    John


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    jvon wrote: »
    Just a quick update lads. Got it fixed yesterday, the circulating pump was broken so once that was replaced everything worked fine again. Thanks for all the help.
    John

    I'm glad you got it fixed. It would seem that the high limit stat was just coming on because the water in the boiler was getting too hot, because there was no circulation.
    What was all the stuff about water emtying from the header tank - or, by any chance, were you talking about the main tank :(

    It just shows how difficult it can be, on a forum, to diagnose problems based on someone's description.
    Jim.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    JamesM wrote: »
    I'm glad you got it fixed. It would seem that the high limit stat was just coming on because the water in the boiler was getting too hot, because there was no circulation.
    What was all the stuff about water emtying from the header tank - or, by any chance, were you talking about the main tank :(

    It just shows how difficult it can be, on a forum, to diagnose problems based on someone's description.
    Jim.


    Absolutely agreed. We certainly do our best with the info provided though! ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 frankashbrook


    JamesM wrote: »
    You certainly have a leak in your system. The red light beside the thermostat on the boiler comes on because the high limit stat is popping out, and that is happening because of a lack of water in the boiler. Can you look into the boiler - it could be burst. The water could be leaking into the boiler and evaporating - depends on the type of boiler - what make and how old ?
    It might also be leaking from the coil into the cylinder as ART6 says.
    Jim.
    i have a problem with a bentone 180 ,it 6 year old . when i turn it on from the house sometimes it works but alot of the time it dose ,nt and i have to press the reset button. than it will work for an hour or two and goes off and will not come back until it cools down. had an engineer out serveral times put new reset button,new nozzle,electrodes,thermostat,solenoid,photo-sensor and new oil filter.now he says it new pump,cost so far 300euro. could it be something to do with the eletrics, it runs on kerocein ,can you please help me.


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