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Argh! Aerox 50cc flooded ....

  • 21-12-2008 6:52pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,247 ✭✭✭✭


    Ok I have no idea what I am doing but my aerox is acting up and I'm pretty sure its flooded. I've seen a tube underneath it being drained when it happened before. Is this something I can do myself? How do I find what I am looking for?

    I plan to drop it to megabikes but its getting it there thats the problem at the moment.

    Someone please help me?!


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,095 ✭✭✭✭omb0wyn5ehpij9


    Tell us how it is acting up and we can tell you what the problem is ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,247 ✭✭✭✭6th


    I try the electric start but all I get is the noise of it trying and nothing else, sometimes a flicker of lights on the clocks. Kickstarting it gives me little more but maybe half a second of lights and noise then quickly fades to nothing. I am getting a strange deep click sound from under the bike when I kickstart it ... but not always.

    Last time I got this was outside the shop and the guy just drained this tube and said I'd flooded it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,554 ✭✭✭zonEEE


    I dont no if this is any help but when you are kick starting it get some one to rev the throttle a bit has worked for me a few times.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,247 ✭✭✭✭6th


    strongr wrote: »
    I dont no if this is any help but when you are kick starting it get some one to rev the throttle a bit has worked for me a few times.

    I'd been trying that but no joy, all I get is like half a rev then it drops off.


  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,144 Mod ✭✭✭✭robinph


    The only additonal thing I've ever done to my 50cc's to try and get them going when that happens for me is to stand there shouting abuse at it for a couple of minutes before trying again, which does sometimes work. I've then had to resort to a man-with-a-van to pick me up and get me into town though.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,247 ✭✭✭✭6th


    Yeah I know I may have to resort to the van but really would rather keep that few quid. Anyway dont need it for a few days so it can sit there and think about what its done!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,898 ✭✭✭✭seanybiker


    leave gt for a bit and try again. No use revving it when ya starting it now cos if it dont start ya will only flood it lol.
    Deadly the ting tings video is on now. Never seen me one that sings for them. She well sexy. Anyways best of luck with bike


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,084 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    To start a flooded engine, open the throttle fully. Make sure the choke is off. When it starts, ease the throttle back.

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,908 ✭✭✭Alkers


    Same thing happened me this morning - Gillera Runner 50cc - PureJet version so it's injected and has no kick start.
    I last used the bike two days ago so how would the bike get flooded in the meantime?
    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,084 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    ^ If your Gilera has a choke, it is easy to flood it while attempting to start it with the choke on. Try it again normally (with choke if there is one) and if it does not start after a few attempts, turn the choke off and try starting with the throttle fully open.

    If the engine is a two-stroke, it is always a good idea to carry a spare spark plug and know how to change the plug. You then clean the removed plug and keep it as a spare for the next time. There should be a plug spanner in the supplied toolkit, or you can buy one cheaply. You may also need a medium crosshead screwdriver to remove a panel so that you can access the cylinder head, where the plug is fitted. A properly functionning spark plug should be light coffee colour, and free of deposits.

    Your engine may not be flooded - it could also be starved of fuel, or not be getting a spark. You can check for a spark by removing the plug cap, fitting your spare plug to the cap (remove the installed plug if you don't have a spare handy and fit this into the cap), then placing the end of the plug (you are basically earthing it) against the cylinder head. Keep looking at the plug, turn the engine over using starter (or kickstart for the OP) and you should see a nice blue spark. This tells you the ignition circuit is probably fine. No spark - possibly bad connection between lead/cap, or cap/plug, or even at the other end of the lead, between the lead and the high-tension coil. The coil itself might also be duff.

    To check for fuel starvation, one way is to remove the spark plug and inspect it. If it is bone dry => no fuel getting to cylinder. Check there is fuel in the tank, the tap is switched on, and set to reserve (if there is a Reserve Position on the tap) if fuel is low. Check the fuel line from the tank to the carb/injector - if it is clear plastic, you will be able to see the presence of fuel. Check fuel line for kinks. If there is enough fuel in the tank but none getting beyond it, there may be a fuel filter problem. The filter may be inline, or may be inside the tap housing. Replace the inline filter if present and blocked (can be bypassed in an emergency).

    If no inline filter, you can try removing the bowl from the tap (be sure it is switched off, and watch for the O-ring, which you will have to ensure is in the correct location during reassembly), thereby accessing the filter to clean it. It will usually be a gauze element, and if blocked this will be obvious. Remove crud carefully, clean with compressed air or by blowing through if necessary. Reassemble, switch on fuel, and see if the fuel now flows. If the fuel line is not see-through, just try starting the bike. Remember that there will be a slight lag while the fuel is drawn from the tank.

    Do not use any throttle opening if using choke, and again, if you suspect flooding again at this point, try with no choke and wide-open throttle.

    The above procedures are simple, and the main difficulty might be in gaining access to them on a scooter, given that the engine is usually enclosed.
    __________________________________________________________
    Another possibility with a two-stroke engine is a build-up of carbon deposits in the exhaust ports of the cylinder, in the exhaust header (the part coming from the cylinder), and the silencer baffle. If the engine can't breathe, it either won't run or will run at very low power. This scenario arises gradually though.

    Also check the air filter if you suspect a breathing problem. That's enough to be going on with!

    Not your ornery onager



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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,784 ✭✭✭Dirk Gently


    Sabotage wrote: »
    I try the electric start but all I get is the noise of it trying and nothing else, sometimes a flicker of lights on the clocks. Kickstarting it gives me little more but maybe half a second of lights and noise then quickly fades to nothing. I am getting a strange deep click sound from under the bike when I kickstart it ... but not always.

    You sure it's not just a flat battery?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,523 ✭✭✭jambofc


    if you try to start a bike with the throttle fully open it will flood on you again check as said above,the tube with fluid in it (you should see it sticking out under youre stand)just pull off the stopper and drain it,its a 2stroke more than likley youre plug when was it last changed?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,247 ✭✭✭✭6th


    It was the plug and the cap but had only gotten it serviced in October. Megabikes weren't sure why it happed but said they'd say it to yamaha - decent folk in that shop.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,084 ✭✭✭✭Esel
    Not Your Ornery Onager


    You're welcome.

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,283 ✭✭✭Fabio


    esel wrote: »
    ^ If your Gilera has a choke, it is easy to flood it while attempting to start it with the choke on. Try it again normally (with choke if there is one) and if it does not start after a few attempts, turn the choke off and try starting with the throttle fully open.

    If the engine is a two-stroke, it is always a good idea to carry a spare spark plug and know how to change the plug. You then clean the removed plug and keep it as a spare for the next time. There should be a plug spanner in the supplied toolkit, or you can buy one cheaply. You may also need a medium crosshead screwdriver to remove a panel so that you can access the cylinder head, where the plug is fitted. A properly functionning spark plug should be light coffee colour, and free of deposits.

    Your engine may not be flooded - it could also be starved of fuel, or not be getting a spark. You can check for a spark by removing the plug cap, fitting your spare plug to the cap (remove the installed plug if you don't have a spare handy and fit this into the cap), then placing the end of the plug (you are basically earthing it) against the cylinder head. Keep looking at the plug, turn the engine over using starter (or kickstart for the OP) and you should see a nice blue spark. This tells you the ignition circuit is probably fine. No spark - possibly bad connection between lead/cap, or cap/plug, or even at the other end of the lead, between the lead and the high-tension coil. The coil itself might also be duff.

    To check for fuel starvation, one way is to remove the spark plug and inspect it. If it is bone dry => no fuel getting to cylinder. Check there is fuel in the tank, the tap is switched on, and set to reserve (if there is a Reserve Position on the tap) if fuel is low. Check the fuel line from the tank to the carb/injector - if it is clear plastic, you will be able to see the presence of fuel. Check fuel line for kinks. If there is enough fuel in the tank but none getting beyond it, there may be a fuel filter problem. The filter may be inline, or may be inside the tap housing. Replace the inline filter if present and blocked (can be bypassed in an emergency).

    If no inline filter, you can try removing the bowl from the tap (be sure it is switched off, and watch for the O-ring, which you will have to ensure is in the correct location during reassembly), thereby accessing the filter to clean it. It will usually be a gauze element, and if blocked this will be obvious. Remove crud carefully, clean with compressed air or by blowing through if necessary. Reassemble, switch on fuel, and see if the fuel now flows. If the fuel line is not see-through, just try starting the bike. Remember that there will be a slight lag while the fuel is drawn from the tank.

    Do not use any throttle opening if using choke, and again, if you suspect flooding again at this point, try with no choke and wide-open throttle.

    The above procedures are simple, and the main difficulty might be in gaining access to them on a scooter, given that the engine is usually enclosed.
    __________________________________________________________
    Another possibility with a two-stroke engine is a build-up of carbon deposits in the exhaust ports of the cylinder, in the exhaust header (the part coming from the cylinder), and the silencer baffle. If the engine can't breathe, it either won't run or will run at very low power. This scenario arises gradually though.

    Also check the air filter if you suspect a breathing problem. That's enough to be going on with!


    Who wants an owners manual when you can get that much detail here?!

    Fair play fella!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,908 ✭✭✭Alkers


    Apologies forgot about this thread and didn't get a notification for some reason.
    My bike had no choke, got it started by rolling it down my driveway while trying to start it, no idea what went wrong with it in the first place has been fine ever since.
    Thanks for the help!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,283 ✭✭✭Fabio


    Glad its sorted!


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