part of Frame snapped!

Cabaal

So not been cycling much since about April since I moved and I had to start driving to work , anyone decided want to get back into it again and I'll set some distances I should do between now and April.

Anyway took the bike in from the yard to clean it up abit and fit new frog lights I got for it since the evenings are very dark and took off the quick release on the back wheel and part of the frame came away!!

So right about now I'm pretty pissed off, its a Trek 7.1 which had a 12 month warranty with the place I bought it from in Waterford but the trek manual says it has a lifetime warranty on the frame (outside of wear and tear), it was bought in Oct 2006.

What can I do?

here's some photos of it

steinone

RE-DO THE QUICK RELEASE QUICK:P
it will be all good.

cunnins4

thought it was just the deraillerer hanger that'd broken, but the actual frame snapped! ouch.

Just phone trek if there's a lifetime warranty on the frame?

Oil your chain and give the bike a clean then take those photos again-that way if you have to send them a photo it'll look like you take really good care of the bike.

neilled

Your first port of call is the place you bought it from. It is their legal responsibility to supply goods of merchantable quality etc.......... so what they said about "a 12 month warranty" is pants. What they may have meant is that if something went wrong within the first 12 months they would sort it out instore and after the 12 they would send it to trek for a decision. Considering the age of your bike they will probably do is send the bike back to treks distributor in ireland (Centro.ie) who will then make a decision if what happened to your frame is a result of

Warranty Covered Failure

Fair Wear and Tear

Neglect/Abuse/Misuse of product in conditions it was not designed for

In the first case I would expect a replacement as it looks like a failure of the frame and I'm not sure as to how a repair attempt in that area would go. Its probably easier for them (legally) to replace if a repair failed.......... they could be in for a legal battle.

In case 2 and 3 then you'll be told "on yer bike get out of here"

Ps, are you sure its a 5.1? Because when I search for 5.1 i get references to a madone and your cassette and frame sure don't look like one!

Cabaal

I'll give it a clean and oil the chain,

when I was down in waterford I uised to keep the bike indoors when not in use, use to clean it a fair bit to. However when I moved I had to place it outside for the past few months although its been covered the majority of the time..though as you can see rain has got at the chain abit due to strong winds lifting the cover from time to time.

I'll ring the shop tomorrow and see how I get on, some bloody pain

blorg

It's a Trek 7.1, not a 5.1, right? Trek do a lifetime warranty on the frame for the original owner, so if you bring it back to the shop (and they are a Trek dealer) you should be good. Trek would not repair, it would be a replacement.

As it is outside the 12 months it would be reasonable for the shop to charge you for the labour of swapping the components over onto the new frame.

Cabaal

blorg wrote: »

As it is outside the 12 months it would be reasonable for the shop to charge you for the labour of swapping the components over onto the new frame.

fair enough I've no problem with that

sorry yeah its a Trek 7.1 FX according to receipt

Cabaal

Thought I'd give an update on the outcome of this, called the bike shop early this week and they said Trek have delivered a whole new bike last week, the bike shop built it for me and didn't charge either.

Picked up the bike today, great service from both trek and altitude in Waterford
Couldn't be happier

Bunnyhopper

Nice to hear you didn't get the run around. Fair dues to Trek and to the shop.

kenmc

Sounds like a great outcome. I suppose things would always be slower over the xmas too, so being without it for the 5 weeks or so isn't *too* bad..

victorcarrera

Well done on that result. I hope the axel is installed the right way round on the new one. ie Quick release lever on the opposite side to deraileur. There is a reason for this. As you may see from your own photos or any bike with deraileur, the frame has a recess to accomodate the deraileur hanger which renders the drop out on this side to be only half the thickness of the other side and hence weaker.

Here is a tip.
When installing wheel.
1.Finger tighten axel with lever paralell with axel.
2. Close lever with heel of hand.
This prevents over/under tightening.

concussion

Good to hear they're still good about their replacements - I had a Trek 8000 before and it fatigued through the monostay - back into the LBS and a few weeks later I had a new frame, no questions asked. Best of all, for some reason they sent me a team edition 8500 frame which was their SLR alloy as opposed to the heavier Alpha alloy - probably not much in the difference weightwise but a huge jump in price. Happy days, I'll always ride a trek!!

Gavin

Yeah I was wondering about the QR skewer orientation before. On my MTB I have the lever on the side with the cassette, as I wanted maximum gripping force on the side with the disc brake.

Although I am dubious if there is actually a difference in the force on either side of the skewer. It seems to me the force would be equal on both sides...

kenmc

Ah Gav, you're an intelligent guy. Think about your first line....
Here's a hint. Newton III...

concussion

Gavin wrote: »

Yeah I was wondering about the QR skewer orientation before. On my MTB I have the lever on the side with the cassette, as I wanted maximum gripping force on the side with the disc brake.

Although I am dubious if there is actually a difference in the force on either side of the skewer. It seems to me the force would be equal on both sides...

My mate is a mechanical engineer and he says you should always have the lever opposite the disc - however when he explains it I feel a little woozy and need to sit down. Then I forget exactly why it's so important.

Morgan

Gavin wrote: »

Although I am dubious if there is actually a difference in the force on either side of the skewer. It seems to me the force would be equal on both sides...

That's my feeling on it too. Unless someone would care to explain differently?

kenmc

Whatever about discs, I know that on my road bike the QR doesn't properly fit around the derailleur pivot point, and it's also a lot more awkward to try and operate the lever on that side with the gears, cables, chain, derailleur etc there too..

Gavin

kenmc wrote: »

Newton III...

Hmm.. I'm not familiar with that film. I'm going with the qr lever on the drive side

kenmc

bicycle tutor says:

bicycletutor wrote:

The procedure for installing disc brake wheels should be the same. The quick release lever should be on the left side of the bike (same as your disc.

victorcarrera

Sorry Gavin and MTB people. My suggested solution above only applies to the OP's scenario. ie race frame with deraileur cutouts and non disk brake bikes. Also assuming breakage occurred when wheel was being removed and not on the road as per OP. FYI though compression forces on both sides of QR axel are equal.

rob1891

kenmc wrote: »

bicycle tutor says:

I don't know about the risk of ripping the dropout off a road bike as victor is discussing.

I don't think I have a preference for the QR on my road bike but on my mtb, I never put the lever on the disk side for the reason that there is a disk there. It is often very hot and I'd rather not burn my hands taking the wheel out, and when it is not hot, I'd still rather not touch it as my hands can be dirty or greasy and this could end up contaminating the pads.

kenmc

Ok now THAT makes perfect sense - the risk of burning your fingers or fecking up the brakes. Point.

Hungrycol

rob1891 wrote: »

I don't think I have a preference for the QR on my road bike ...

Are your road tyres not directional IYKWIM? On installing tyres I always ensure that the forward rotation (marked on the tyre) corresponds to the QR lever always being on the non-drive side. That way I never have to worry about tyre drection after fixing a puncture/locking wheels together/etc

Cabaal

kenmc wrote: »

Sounds like a great outcome. I suppose things would always be slower over the xmas too, so being without it for the 5 weeks or so isn't *too* bad..

I expected it to take till at least Feb due to the busy Christmas period, certainly doesn't bother me too much.

Sure would have been nice to have it for Christmas but it was never going to happen so no point getting pissed off with people about it

Can finally get back cycling