Boards gear - washing thereof

rflynnr

Picked up my boards jacket and shorts last week (thanks again RogerB) and went out for the first spin after an illness-imposed six week layoff. The gear's fine but as I went to put it in the washing machine I noticed a warning not to wash it at temperatures above 30 degrees. Trouble is, my washing machine won't go below 40 degrees. I've had this experience with other clothes before and have generally gotten away with washing at 40 but before I potentially destroy/shrink brand new gear, has anyone else tried this already? (And with what results?)

Chips Lovell

Most of my cycling gear says wash at 30 degrees and comes out fine if you wash it at 40.

Raam

Washing tips: and so the cycling forum swings even more to the left.

rflynnr

I know - sorry.

niceonetom

ok, so do any of you use any specific detergent? i'm thinking about the fact that my assos shorts came with a little bottle of their own branded detergent and, while i acknowledge that i am deeply lost down the rabbit-hole already, i'm not quite at the point where i want to buy soap that costs €35 a litre.

Caroline_ie

Wash Your Cycling Duds

Take care of your clothes the right way, and they'll last longer and feel better.

Good cycling clothes are an investment--one that rubs right up against your most treasured body parts. Though care instructions from manufacturers seem to vary from the extreme "hand wash in our proprietary soap and dry with a soft lint-free towel" to the lackadaisical "machine wash, tumble dry," the truth is out there. Or, rather, it's here, in our guide to the smart way to care for your clothes and keep smelling fresh.



Add Soap Use the most basic detergent you can find, without dyes, perfumes or softeners. Cycling clothes are made of high-performance fabrics meant to channel moisture away from your skin. Any residue from fancy soaps or fabric softeners will clog up the works, keeping the fabric from doing its job well.

Some manufacturers recommend against using liquid detergents--straight, concentrated detergent is potent stuff--but as long as you run water into the washer first, add the detergent, then the clothes, you'll get gentler, easier-to-rinse cleaning. A note on wool: Treat it like you would any other wool garment, using a wool-specific soap and machine washing only if the tag says it's okay.

Seal Up Zip zippers and close hook-and-loop fasteners before washing--both can chew up clothes faster than skidding on loose gravel. Also, turn screenprinted or sublimated clothing inside out to protect the graphics. Before you wash, sort your clothes--your cycling gear shouldn't be mashed in with your hard-tumbling jeans or a mess of heavy towels. They're "delicates" and should be treated as such. Use the delicate cycle on your washing machine, too.

Wash, Rinse, Sniff Wash in cold or lukewarm water. If your clothes still smell like detergent at the end of the cycle, run them through for an extra rinse.

Dry Heat is used in the finishing process of most stretch fabrics, so a little hot air can give clothing a boost (unless it's wool--in which case, it's best to avoid the dryer; lay the damp clothes on a towel to dry). But high heat, or drying in a Laundromat-type commercial dryer, will lead to shrinkage--not the temporary Seinfeld kind--and damage the elastics. It could also bake in any lingering funk. Stick with low heat, and only for a little while, as high-performance fabrics dry quickly. And remember to skip the fabric-softener dryer sheets.

Line-drying nonwool clothing is fine, too, as long as the clothes are out of direct sunlight--the added UV exposure can cause fabrics to break down prematurely.

3 tips for laundry idiots

1. How often must I wash my stuff? As often as you want, as long as you follow the recommended care instructions. If you tend to sweat like a pig, wash your gear after every ride. But if your clothes still smell okay and you're all about conserving water, wash them when you feel it's necessary.

2. What if I don't wash my clothes the way the tag says? It's always best--though not always convenient--to follow the tag instructions. If you decide to ignore the manufacturer (or us) and go your own way, your clothes will still be okay. Probably. For a while. But they won't last as long or work as well as they could if you wash them with extra care.

3. Um, when it comes to washing my chamois, is there something I should know? Most chamois don't require special cleaning, unless you have an exceptionally old-fashioned pair of shorts with a real leather chamois. If you line-dry your shorts, be sure to hang them chamois-side out.

penexpers

And don't forget folks: cycling jerseys don't need to be ironed

Chips Lovell

niceonetom wrote: »

while i acknowledge that i am deeply lost down the rabbit-hole already, i'm not quite at the point where i want to buy soap that costs €35 a litre.

I've never stooped to this level. Ordinary washing powder works fine I find. Although I do use the little washing bags they provide with their shorts.

DirkVoodoo

Thank God I don't wash my gear.

I've been told we have a "delicate" function on the washing machine, maybe you have something similar rflynnr?

So far nothing of mine has been shrunk, although a pair of adidas shorts I bought a few months ago have a nasty wear patch on the inside leg. I can think of two possible causes.

Raam

niceonetom wrote: »

i'm not quite at the point where i want to buy soap that costs €35 a litre.

Must be magic soap

SomeFool

Just back from a spin where my mate was complaining of the smell of daz when he was behind me!:D I usually just use a small measure of liquid to wash my stuff. Biggest tip is not to dry kit on the rad....

Gavin

If organised, it's fairly straightforward to just rinse a jersey/baselayer under the tap after use, let it drip dry and sorted. I do this during the week and then might chuck the lot, including shorts and jacket into a 30degree was at the weekend, or at some point when I won't be cycling the next day.

rflynnr

Caroline_ie wrote: »

Wash Your Cycling Duds

Now that's what I call an answer. (See Raam, this stuff matters.)