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Heat Recovery Ventilation System in Galway

  • 25-11-2008 10:02pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35


    Can anyone tell me of a good provider of a HRV system in Galway.

    Lots of providers out there but need to hear of personal experience, good or bad !

    If you hve put in a system, how do you find it ? Noise ? Price ? .. etc

    Tks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    PM sent


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 147 ✭✭Juantorena


    PM sent..(possibly same as CJHaughey)

    CJ, I suspect I am getting the same - or similar - unit as yourself fitted. If it is a Scando-Moycullen (mods?) unit...can you say how you are finding it in day-to-day use?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Juantorena

    I find it great, low power consumption and clean air.
    The new models have brushless motors and are a bit more powerful.
    I haven't seen them but they sound good.
    HRV is the way to go IMO.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 147 ✭✭Juantorena


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Juantorena

    I find it great, low power consumption and clean air.
    The new models have brushless motors and are a bit more powerful.
    I haven't seen them but they sound good.
    HRV is the way to go IMO.

    Good to hear!

    Question for you: does yours have a remote boost switch (e.g. in bathroom) for speedy removal of steam during showers, etc.? Mine does not as standard but it looks like there may be a facility to wire-up up to two remote switches...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,315 ✭✭✭✭Quazzie


    Can I jump on the OP's back here and get a copy of any PMs. I'm from Offaly so hopefully any providers will service my area too.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Juantorena wrote: »
    Good to hear!

    Question for you: does yours have a remote boost switch (e.g. in bathroom) for speedy removal of steam during showers, etc.? Mine does not as standard but it looks like there may be a facility to wire-up up to two remote switches...

    There is a boost switch, I only really use it in summer, I guess it could be wired up to a remote switch but even on the lowest setting, If I open the bathroom door it clears the mirror in about a minute.
    The thing with the HRV is that if you close the door it will follow the path of least resistance ie the other extract points in the kitchen/utility will flow more.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22 Msmaloney26


    Hi lads/ladies,

    Looking to install this system too and currently looking for prices and experience could I also get a copy by PM of some names that you may have dealt with or recommended systems. Building in the midlands also.

    Many Thanks,


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 namara


    Have spoken to a few providers about an installation as part of a refurb and received a fair bit of conflicting advice. Main area of conflict is on the subject of rigid v flexible ducting. Result was 1-1 on installers (not surprisingly each supporting their own and dissing the alternative). Supplier who doesn't install but could provide either seemed to favour the rigid ducting fairly strongly. Thinking of going with the rigid ducting installer - seemed the straightest. Would welcome any info/direct experiences of individual installers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I installed the system we got with a capable friend, neither of us had any prior experience with installing HRV but with a bit of common sense it was easy enough.
    We used spiral wrap galvanised ducting, I think there is 3 different sizes depending on flow requirements.
    You can use either but the rigid ducting flows air much better then the flexi stuff.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,669 ✭✭✭mukki


    i just put in normal vents and I close them when its windy out

    the money i saved would feed the family for a year


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Just invest in thermal underware , hot water bottles , scarfs and mittens ..... you are on to something here :rolleyes:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,669 ✭✭✭mukki


    sinnerboy wrote: »
    Just invest in thermal underware , hot water bottles , scarfs and mittens ..... you are on to something here :rolleyes:


    no need, modern houses are very very warm, in fact i'm going to open the window to let some heat out, its roasting in here

    i just feel the OP should also consider not getting HRV, you can get carried away paying for stuff when self building so much so that you start to feel that it monopoly money, i didn't and judging by the news lately, thank christ


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    mukki wrote: »
    no need, modern houses are very very warm, in fact i'm going to open the window to let some heat out, its roasting in here

    i just feel the OP should also consider not getting HRV, you can get carried away paying for stuff when self building so much so that you start to feel that it monopoly money, i didn't and judging by the news lately, thank christ

    Can you explain please?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,669 ✭✭✭mukki


    lol, sorry to go off topic

    economic downturn

    the OP's house will cost more to build then it will make in an auction, and if it comes to that i think the OP will be glad if he had the money he spent on unnessary extras still in his bank account

    right back on topic

    my 2c to the OP is not to get it HRV, i wouldn't get it if was €500 supplied and fitted


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    No . You just open windows to release expensive heat heat . Or when really cold subject your family to an unhealty air quality . Good for you .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,669 ✭✭✭mukki


    sinnerboy wrote: »
    No . You just open windows to release expensive heat heat . Or when really cold subject your family to an unhealty air quality . Good for you .


    i close the vent in the living room when its windy, a lot of air still gets through them



    can people please go back on topic, i was just posting to say that not getting HRV is an option too

    bit like if a guy ask should he get a ps3 or an xbox, and someone replies saying don't get either they are a waste of money

    PM me if you want to argue more, i'm not going to view this thread again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 147 ✭✭Juantorena


    For the OP - regarding mukki's posts and whether you need MHRV at all is a good question. Other, more knowledgeable, posters than I may weigh in with other views but it seems to me it really depends on how you're going to build your house.

    If you are looking to keep running - i.e. heating - costs down to a minimum you need to do two basic things:

    1. insulate well to stop transference of heat through the building fabric (walls/roof/floor/windows) and then

    2. augment the said insulation levels by making the fabric as air-tight as possible (hence stopping your lovely insulated warm internal air from escaping and colder, external air getting in...).

    If you do follow the above the onus then moves to ventilation of the building, otherwise you run the risk of elevated condensation levels which can ultimately impact the structural elements of the house, promote mildew growth, possibly adversely affect the air you're breathing. This is where MHRV comes in - introducing fresh air in a controlled manner but at a reduced heat loss.

    However, if you're not doing 1. and then 2. above, MHRV for you becomes both less attractive or a necessity.

    Personally, I don't find spending money on MHRV as just another desirable extra gadget to spend some of the budget on. I view it as an intrinsic element of the overall heating of the house. I'd even go so far as to say it goes hand-in-hand with insulation and tape as the first things to consider before even looking at heating the home.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,555 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    mukki wrote: »
    no need, modern houses are very very warm, in fact i'm going to open the window to let some heat out, its roasting in here

    i just feel the OP should also consider not getting HRV, you can get carried away paying for stuff when self building so much so that you start to feel that it monopoly money, i didn't and judging by the news lately, thank christ

    with the increased requirement for low energy homes and air tightness having anything but mechanical ventilation wont be an option to meet building regulations.

    within 5 years all new homes will have them if they keep increasing the regs.

    the poster before me hit the nail on the head.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    snyper wrote: »
    with the increased requirement for low energy homes and air tightness having anything but mechanical ventilation wont be an option to meet building regulations.

    within 5 years all new homes will have them if they keep increasing the regs.

    the poster before me hit the nail on the head.


    The new regs due out end month will be a step in that direction.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,555 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    Carlow52 wrote: »
    The new regs due out end month will be a step in that direction.

    b1 to a3 rated homes i believe. Anything higher after that will make it a necessity imo due to air tightness.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 899 ✭✭✭bauderline


    ... I may have asked this before, so forgive me, but is necessary to insulate the ducting when it is running through warm zones, namely above uninsulated PB ceilings at ground floor level....

    P.


  • Subscribers Posts: 42,172 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    bauderline wrote: »
    ... I may have asked this before, so forgive me, but is necessary to insulate the ducting when it is running through warm zones, namely above uninsulated PB ceilings at ground floor level....

    P.

    no. only in unheated areas.

    get your electrician to link the HRv system to the fire detection system and set it to shut down in case of fire.

    HRV systems are a relevantly new technology here and regulations havent caught up yet...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I lagged all our exposed ductwork even if it ran through warm areas, it helps with noise as well as making sure all the heat goes to where it intended instead of warming unoccupied space.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    no. only in unheated areas.

    get your electrician to link the HRv system to the fire detection system and set it to shut down in case of fire.

    HRV systems are a relevantly new technology here and regulations havent caught up yet...

    I have asked in the circuits diagrams sticky in the electrics part of C+P that someone might explain
    what kit is required
    how it is done
    + a wiring diagram

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=59395726#post59395726 item 14

    as I suspect the 5 euro smoke alarm from woodies is not up for it:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 899 ✭✭✭bauderline


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    I lagged all our exposed ductwork even if it ran through warm areas, it helps with noise as well as making sure all the heat goes to where it intended instead of warming unoccupied space.

    Out of sheer curiosity what did you lag it with ? The brown woolly stuff that comes in a roll ? Excuse the description btw !

    P.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    bauderline wrote: »
    Out of sheer curiosity what did you lag it with ? The brown woolly stuff that comes in a roll ? Excuse the description btw !

    P.

    I used Moy Isover fibreglass, I split the 4" roll into half thickness and wrapped it around the ducting, then I used a piece of nylon cord and just half hitched it around to hold it in place.
    Easy job, not pleasant. I would recommend wearing one of those disposable tyvek overalls when dealing with GF as well as a dustmask.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,555 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    no. only in unheated areas.

    get your electrician to link the HRv system to the fire detection system and set it to shut down in case of fire.

    HRV systems are a relevantly new technology here and regulations havent caught up yet...

    It is actually necessary syd. The only ducts not ladded are the flow and return from the hrv unit to the outside.

    All ducting, flow and return is required to be lagged usually 25mm fiberglass. According to the Manufacturers (Itho and Daikin the ones ive talked to) it improves efficency and results. Essentially you dont want to be loseing heat into joisting between floors as this serves no direct purpose in heating a room.

    There are as far as i know no regulations in HRV ib this country only "best practice"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,555 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    bauderline wrote: »
    Out of sheer curiosity what did you lag it with ? The brown woolly stuff that comes in a roll ? Excuse the description btw !

    P.

    that brown wooly stuff is rockwool :D Similar properties and uses but not as "unpleasant" to work with as it not itchy to use..well not near as bad as fiberglass, but a mask and proctetive clothing is still advised


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    never did this hands on myself- but this particular product looks user freindly

    http://rwiumbraco-gb.inforce.dk/media/76019/rocklap%20h&v%20pipe%20sections-sec.pdf


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,555 ✭✭✭✭AckwelFoley


    sinnerboy wrote: »
    never did this hands on myself- but this particular product looks user freindly

    http://rwiumbraco-gb.inforce.dk/media/76019/rocklap%20h&v%20pipe%20sections-sec.pdf


    Yea, i know it but in jobs iv seen not used because its expenssive so they used regular fiberglass, HRV is expensive enough when you get the proper unit and ducting


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    sinnerboy wrote: »
    never did this hands on myself- but this particular product looks user freindly

    http://rwiumbraco-gb.inforce.dk/media/76019/rocklap%20h&v%20pipe%20sections-sec.pdf

    Hope not; would be v itchy:D

    maybe: never did this hands-on myself
    keep well:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    :D:D:D

    well - we must take our pleasures where we find them !


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,712 ✭✭✭davelerave


    Carlow52 wrote: »
    I have asked in the circuits diagrams sticky in the electrics part of C+P that someone might explain
    what kit is required
    how it is done
    + a wiring diagram

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=59395726#post59395726 item 14

    as I suspect the 5 euro smoke alarm from woodies is not up for it:)

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055400462
    simple to shut it down,just a contact or relay base .although i don't work with mhrv the other fire consideration obviously is seperation distance between ceiling vents and smoke alarms so as not to draw away smoke from detectors.if this equipment is in attic there can be an interconnected alarm fitted there as well in case of equipment fire


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,675 ✭✭✭exaisle


    mukki wrote: »
    PM me if you want to argue more, i'm not going to view this thread again

    ...presumably because he has his head in the sand.....

    E.


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