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new build insulation?

  • 25-11-2008 1:35pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 20


    Hello all,
    just wondered if anyone could help me with a few insulation questions. i'm building a 2000sqft bunglow. was planning to put 200mm high density aeroboard into the walls, 140 into the floor and roof. don't know if this is the right type of insulation for all three areas. also is there any need to put extra insulation into internal walls. it think the standaed for a timber frame is 95mm. anyone have any idea what this would cost? thanking you.


Comments

  • Subscribers Posts: 42,312 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    curaldo wrote: »
    Hello all,
    just wondered if anyone could help me with a few insulation questions. i'm building a 2000sqft bunglow. was planning to put 200mm high density aeroboard into the walls, 140 into the floor and roof. don't know if this is the right type of insulation for all three areas. also is there any need to put extra insulation into internal walls. it think the standaed for a timber frame is 95mm. anyone have any idea what this would cost? thanking you.

    what build type is it???
    timber frame?? cavity wall???

    there are better products than aeroboard available out on the market... but your spec depends on you build type....

    why have you not engaged a professional to answer these questions for you??? you need someone to certify your build, so these questions should be aimed at him / her.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,607 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    Moved to C & P


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20 curaldo


    It is a timber frame build. I am new to this so I have been mixing things up a bit. I plan to put 200mm Kingspan/Xtratherm in the walls and 140mm Kingspan/Xtratherm floors and roof not the white aeroboard stuff.


    I got an architect to do the drawing for me and to submit my planning application but he wasn’t very good when it came to suggesting/recommending things. He would do what you asked, but if you didn’t know a whole lot you couldn’t ask the right questions.


    One thing I am not too sure about, do you insulate the internal walls in a timber frame, if so what do you put in them? Also, how much insulation would you expect to find in a A or B rated house?


    I haven’t organised an engineer to oversee the building yet, but from what I hear off other people is that they just show up at the site 3 or 4 times to ensure that everything meets the building regulations and that it. No advice about insulation, heating etc



    Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 113 ✭✭getfit


    A mate of mine employed an energy assesor to go through his plans and do up a spec for all the areas that feed into the energy rating calc.

    He got specs for B1 to A2 including all the jargon/factors etc in a 29 page document. He told the assesor he didn't want to understand it, just wanted a summary of what he needed to do to get A3. He was then given a 2 and a half page summary which gave the specs. Type of heating system (and standard), u-value for windows, u-values for floor, walls and roof and what type of insulation would achieve these u-values. Areas like ventilation, solar panels etc. were also outlined

    Here's an exert from the summary:
    ________________________________________________________
    Flat Roof Insulation between Joists:
    The U-value specified for the flat roof is 0.12.

    220mm of Aero Dorm insulation between the Joists and 62.5mm of K17 Kingspan insulation beneath the joists. 9 by 2 joists.
    Or
    150mm of Aero Dorm insulation between the Joists and 150mm of quilt insulation laid above and perpendicular to the joists.
    Or
    150mm of quilt insulation between the Joists and 200mm of quilt insulation laid above and perpendicular to the joists.
    ___________________________________________________________

    As you can see he gives options not just answers. I'm just finishing my build and I can see that my house varies to much! My walls and floor and windows are all B1/A3 standard (or close to it), whereas my roof is more like B3. I would have been wiser to spend less on windows and floor insulation and more on roof insulation...

    My mate is also finding his spec very handy when getting quotes from builders. There's no messing around with "I'll insulate it great" and then 12 months down the road they charge for extra insulation - which is "out of the norm"...


  • Subscribers Posts: 42,312 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Aero Dorm??????


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 113 ✭✭getfit


    Yeah - I google'd that and all - don't have a clue what it is??? Could it be some sort of aeroboard?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    Aero Dorm??????


    its aerodorm and can be found at www.aerobord.ie


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    curaldo wrote: »
    One thing I am not too sure about, do you insulate the internal walls in a timber frame, if so what do you put in them? Also, how much insulation would you expect to find in a A or B rated house?

    Yes but for sound proofing between rooms, especially bedrooms!
    Slabbed stud walls, alone, don't provide much sound insulation - Stuff insulation between vertical studs. Rockwool flexi is good as unlike fibre glass, its not supposed to sagg over time. So theres no fear of an empty space at the top of the wall.

    In an age of tv, hi-fi, playstations etc all on at the same time, in different rooms - sound insulation is important. It can't be put in later!

    I found adding an extra slab to one side of a stud wall was a cheap way to add extra sound proofing.:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 136 ✭✭YourAverageJoe


    but is the aerobord stuff any good?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,489 ✭✭✭No6


    but is the aerobord stuff any good?
    Its all relative, the higher permformance insulations are generally more expensive but you don't have to allow for large thinkness in your structure. Cheaper Insulations do the same job they just need more thickness to achieve the same performance, example 300mm of fibre glass is now standard in attic's at ceiling level, cheap and cheerful but be careful when you are putting stuff into the attic as you cannot see the joists. To allow an attic to be boarded out for storage the higher performance insulations have to be used and these are considerabley more expensive particurarly if used throughout the roof. So consider price / performance / cost & ease of Instalation and does the structure have to be adjusted to suit and if so the costs of that.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    curaldo wrote: »
    I haven’t organised an engineer to oversee the building yet, but from what I hear off other people is that they just show up at the site 3 or 4 times to ensure that everything meets the building regulations and that it. No advice about insulation, heating etc

    Thats not true, I hope!. Your Certifier (Architectural Technician, Architect, Engineer) will make numerous inspections to ensure your compliance with Planning Permission and the Building Regs. Insulation requirements are an important Building Regulation. Get a better Certifier than your friend :D

    BER Certs are now law for all new builds and existing dwellings. I'd advise you to retain the service of a Registered BER Assessor.

    I'd agree with Syd & No.6.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 136 ✭✭YourAverageJoe


    I realise that the heat transerfer characteristics are differnt for different materials and that you need a thicker peice of aeroboard to compete with the rigid boards insulation.

    But, I am wondering about the quaility of aeroboard insulation in general. What are peoples experiences of using it and is it really a decent alternative?


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