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Ferroli tempra pressure problem

  • 07-11-2008 1:10am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7


    Hiya, I have a Ferroli Tempra 18 boiler installed in my house. Can anyone tell me how to make the pressure go up to 1? its at 0.5 at the mo.
    do I need a plumber or can i sort it out myself?
    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    Punchykid wrote: »
    Hiya, I have a Ferroli Tempra 18 boiler installed in my house. Can anyone tell me how to make the pressure go up to 1? its at 0.5 at the mo.
    do I need a plumber or can i sort it out myself?
    Thanks

    You shouldn't need a plumber for what should be a ten minute annual maintenance job. Somewhere on your system there should be a valve which, when opened, admits water from mains to the heating system. Often in a hot press or somewhere like that. Open the valve until the system pressure has risen to 1 bar then close it off.

    One system I came across recently had a non return valve fitted in a line from the attic cold water tank instead, so the system should automatically top itself up presumably, except that the NR valve would only open if the system pressure dropped to zero. If you have one of those instead of a top up valve, then unless you're good a plumbing you might indeed need a plumber.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 MoCMcD


    Hi,

    Yeah I'm a plumber with the same problem.

    Like that I have a NRV(non return valve) on the filling pipe. The filling pipe is coming from the tank in the attic so I figured the pressure should be about half a bar or so. It isn't so I assumed the NRV is jammed closed and isn't allowing any top up water into the system!

    Unless its a valve that doesn't allow water into the system till its bottomed out? Is that what you're saying? any particular markings that would tell me if it is one of these valves?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    MoCMcD wrote: »
    Hi,

    Yeah I'm a plumber with the same problem.

    Like that I have a NRV(non return valve) on the filling pipe. The filling pipe is coming from the tank in the attic so I figured the pressure should be about half a bar or so. It isn't so I assumed the NRV is jammed closed and isn't allowing any top up water into the system!

    Unless its a valve that doesn't allow water into the system till its bottomed out? Is that what you're saying? any particular markings that would tell me if it is one of these valves?

    There are two types that I have come across. In one type the valve stem and disc is gravity operated, with the stem sliding in a sleeve in the valve cap and being held closed only by the pressure on top of the disc. When that pressure drops sufficiently the pressure on the other side (for example, from a header tank) can force the valve open and admit water. That type of NR valve looks like an ordinary globe valve without a handwheel -- in other words it looks rather like a "tee" fitting. The problem with them is that dirt can get into the sleeve around the stem and stick it, since the pressure difference to open the valve is very small.

    The other type is straight-through, with the stem and disc being spring loaded. In that type there is no cap, and it looks like a straight through coupling. I wouldn't have expected that type to be used from a header tank as there wouldn't be enough pressure to open it. So I would guess that your problem is with the first type and that the stem is simply stuck in the sleeve. That's what I found once or twice in the past. Sometime even a judicious tap with a small hammer is sufficient to free it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2 MoCMcD


    Sound thanks I actually think its the spring loaded type so that'd explain a lot!
    Ive only really seen those ones before cause im more of an industrial plumber so I didnt even know about the first type you mentioned.
    Cheers anyway I'll look into replacing that now


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,195 ✭✭✭goldie fish


    Usually there is a valve under the unit somewhere connected to mains cold water to raise the pressure. Open it till the meter hits 1.5-2 and then close it. You'll hear water rushing into the boiler. However be aware that you are introducing new water(and consequently rust) into your heating system. Also, you are losing water pressure somewhere.


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