Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Oil Burner Firing But Cold Rads

  • 06-11-2008 6:02pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭


    My oil burner is firing up and running as normal but the rads are not heating up. Is this likely to be a problem with the pump by the boiler which circulates the water?

    Any way to quickly test if this is the problem?

    Anything else it might be?

    If it's the pump how much is it likely to cost to get it replaced? Could you replace it yourself (i'm handy at pluming)?


    Thanks.....


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    tm2204 wrote: »
    My oil burner is firing up and running as normal but the rads are not heating up. Is this likely to be a problem with the pump by the boiler which circulates the water?

    Any way to quickly test if this is the problem?

    Anything else it might be?

    If it's the pump how much is it likely to cost to get it replaced? Could you replace it yourself (i'm handy at pluming)?


    Thanks.....
    if the pipe beyond the pump is not heating then it could be the pump.

    Is this the first time this season u fired it up as the pump could just be stuck .
    when the pump is running you should be able to feel it 'humming'

    the pump can be replaced easily enough as there should be two isolation vales either side of the pump, as part of the flanged fittings: u will also need to rewire the pump so usual warnings apply, especially where there is water.

    50/60 euro should get u a pump
    http://www.inspiredheating.co.uk/acatalog/MYSON_PUMPS.html


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Unscrew the cover (about the size of a 2€ coin) in the middle of the pump and check that the shaft is turning. If not give it a twist with a screwdriver and see if it takes off.

    Put the cover back on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭tm2204


    Tks for the replies guys, will check this out tomorrow.

    Heating has been working fine this winter for weeks now; rads just stopped heating up today.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Do you have a thermostat in the hall orliving room that controls the pump ? If so, is it high enough ?
    Jim.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭tm2204


    Thanks a lot everyone for the advice.

    Was the pump alright. Disconnected the old one, brought it down to the local hardware & plumbing store, guy sold me a replacement for €55.

    Had it fitted and the heating back on working within 20 mins. A doddle to install if your any way handy.

    Reckon I saved a packet. Wonder how much a plumber would have charged for a callout and to supply & fit the pump. LOL :D:D:D


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭tm2204


    A further update to this.

    Since I installed the new pump everything has been running well & the rads are really hot so i'm delighted.

    However, out at the boiler I have noticed that the cylindrical fitting (expansion valve) at the end of the 12" vent pipe that runs vertically directly off the main hot water pipe going into the boiler is dripping/weeping slightly. This is happening when the heating is off and the pipes are cold.

    There is a small nipple like screw that you can turn and if I turn this just a touch it shuts the drip off but is it ok just do do this? Will the vent pipe still function correctly if I slightly close this nipple screw to stop the drip/weep?

    Thanks....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    My guess is that it is the air-vent that is leaking: there is a float in the cylinder and they regularly get full of 'gunge' and the float sticks, allowing the water to pass out the top.

    I would not be concerned by closing the top, however given that u are handy u could replace it easy enough/ if you dont want to take down the pressure in the system u could freeze the pipe below the joint and work away


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 991 ✭✭✭tm2204


    Carlow52 wrote: »
    My guess is that it is the air-vent that is leaking: there is a float in the cylinder and they regularly get full of 'gunge' and the float sticks, allowing the water to pass out the top.

    Are you talking about inside the expansion pressure valve out at the boiler here? Don't fully get what you are telling me here. I don't have a closed system; I have a small expansion water tank in my loft that feeds the system.


    Carlow52 wrote: »
    I would not be concerned by closing the top, however given that u are handy u could replace it easy enough/ if you dont want to take down the pressure in the system u could freeze the pipe below the joint and work away

    I closed the top just a very small turn so the weep stopped. did this when the system was off & rads/pipes were cold. Thinking I might have slightly opened the nipple screw when I was wiping down the pipes etc: after I installed the pump.

    How do you freeze the pipe? Will doing this allow me to replace the valve without draining the whole thing down?


    Thanks for your help...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 44,080 ✭✭✭✭Micky Dolenz


    It is ok to close it, it is probably an automatic air vent. however ever if you want to change it buy a new one and possibley a 1/2 312 (female fitting that vent screws into one side and copper compression fitting other side)

    Attach AAV to 312 and get ready, if it is an outside/shed boiler you could do it live, do it cold and fast.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    if open system as Mickey says do it quick and fast, stick a BIG cork in the outlet pipe inside bottom of the tank and you will stop most of the flow in the pipework once u open it.

    re freezing, use disposable kit as per
    http://www.ukcopperboard.co.uk/literature/pdfs/Installation-Tips/Pipe-freezing.pdf


  • Advertisement
Advertisement