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Domestic Oil Tanks - how low can you go before running out?

  • 04-11-2008 10:44am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 448 ✭✭


    I have a query relating to:

    How much oil in terms of depth i.e. centimetres are required for your domestic oil tank to keep working?

    We have a 600 gallon/2724 litres Tyrrell Tanks of Fermanagh tank. It stands on it's end if that makes sense.

    Now it is 1m55 tall has a maximum diameter of 1m70 and a diameter at the base of 1m68. The diameter at the top is a lot less.

    Back in January 10th we got 2000 litres of diesel for the tank and it was bone dry as we had just purchased the house and previous had let it run out.

    Now 2000 litres raised the level of oil in the tank to 101 centimetres. This was just hitting the narrower part of the tank. However if we take it that 100 centimetres equates to 2000 litres is it safe/fair to assume that every centimetre equates to 20 litres of fuel?

    We bought an apollo sonic sensor but as it does not take into account the diameter it is basically no more than a very rough guide which is why we manually dip the tank.

    As of this morning we have 17.5 centimetres left in the tank - could this be 350 litres? Will the tank operate with less than 10 centimetres of fuel which in my opinion is 200 litres?

    If you have read all of this - thanks! However I have one more query.:eek::D

    The boiler is in the garage a good 10 metres from the house - we assume the cable is insulated as no evidence of heat loss on tarmac on frosty mornings. It is a 180,000 BTU 3kw boiler IIRC. Now I was told by a plumber, a knowledgeable chap that a 3kw or .75kw not sure which meant that the boiler when working correctly cannot burn more than 3 litres of fuel per hour and that would only happen if on full time which it never is.

    Does this make sense to any of you guys?

    Do you think it makes sense to get the boiler serviced once a year?

    Cheers for any help! I like to run things down to the wire but do not want to run out either!:D


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,399 ✭✭✭Kashkai


    While I appreciate all your calculations, maybe I'm missing something here but surely the point at where your oil line enters the tank is the level that you must keep the oil above or else it will drop below the pipe and you will end up with an airlock. The oil pipe is usually 6 inches or more above the bottom of the tank so any dirt/sedimentation in the oil will settle there and not get sucked into the pipeline/burner where it could cause a blockage.

    Like I said, if I've missed something, then apologies for being an idiot!:)

    Whether to get the boiler serviced each year is a matter for yourself. In my opinion, its a machine that requires maintenance or else it will break down, usually when its freezing. A well maintained boiler will use less fuel as well and help pay for the cost of servicing it. However, I know some people who have never had their heating serviced in 10 years.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    As Dave says, keep the oil level above the top of the outlet pipe.
    I agree with Dave about the service. I also know of boilers not serviced for 10 years, although the more modern ones will usually block up sooner than that because of smaller flueways. The older boilers with large chambers and wide flueways can hold a lot of deposit before they get clogged - of course they use a lot of oil trying to heat the water through a coating of dirt as well as through the walls of the boiler.
    Jim.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 448 ✭✭Guvnor


    Thanks guys,

    The tank is gravity fed.
    It was serviced within the last year and adjusted when the switch over from kerosene to diesel was made.

    The pipe is pretty much at the bottom with the tank raised off the ground on a plinth.

    Will probably get some fuel on Monday week just to be safe.:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,114 ✭✭✭corkcomp


    Guvnor wrote: »
    I have a query relating to:

    How much oil in terms of depth i.e. centimetres are required for your domestic oil tank to keep working?

    We have a 600 gallon/2724 litres Tyrrell Tanks of Fermanagh tank. It stands on it's end if that makes sense.

    Now it is 1m55 tall has a maximum diameter of 1m70 and a diameter at the base of 1m68. The diameter at the top is a lot less.

    Back in January 10th we got 2000 litres of diesel for the tank and it was bone dry as we had just purchased the house and previous had let it run out.

    Now 2000 litres raised the level of oil in the tank to 101 centimetres. This was just hitting the narrower part of the tank. However if we take it that 100 centimetres equates to 2000 litres is it safe/fair to assume that every centimetre equates to 20 litres of fuel?

    We bought an apollo sonic sensor but as it does not take into account the diameter it is basically no more than a very rough guide which is why we manually dip the tank.

    As of this morning we have 17.5 centimetres left in the tank - could this be 350 litres? Will the tank operate with less than 10 centimetres of fuel which in my opinion is 200 litres?

    If you have read all of this - thanks! However I have one more query.:eek::D

    The boiler is in the garage a good 10 metres from the house - we assume the cable is insulated as no evidence of heat loss on tarmac on frosty mornings. It is a 180,000 BTU 3kw boiler IIRC. Now I was told by a plumber, a knowledgeable chap that a 3kw or .75kw not sure which meant that the boiler when working correctly cannot burn more than 3 litres of fuel per hour and that would only happen if on full time which it never is.

    Does this make sense to any of you guys?

    Do you think it makes sense to get the boiler serviced once a year?

    Cheers for any help! I like to run things down to the wire but do not want to run out either!:D


    your plumber was prob trying to say that your burner is using a 0.75Gal per / hour nozzle which would mean about 3l per hour if it fired continuously for 60 minutes .. I think either your boiler is not operating at 180,000 btu/hr or you have a bigger nozzle because a 0.75 would probably be more suited to 100,000 btu?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,503 ✭✭✭secman


    If the oil level is very close to the outlet supply pipe to burner at the moment, In the past i,ve used a strong torch and you can see the outlet pipe just below the surface. Then get yourself a dip stick, mark it now and you can always use this as a guide to see whats left. Simple but efective.


    Secman


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 448 ✭✭Guvnor


    Thanks lads,

    Good idea on the torch mate!

    In the end I buckled and reordered when the level was at about 10cm - may be a bit more risky next time and let it go to 5-6cm which should be enough!

    Corkcomp - I'll quiz him mate on the info but what you said sounds bang on and makes sense.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 887 ✭✭✭suitseir


    The dipstick which was supplied to me with the thank measures in inches and centimetres and it has a `level indicator` and a reminder on it when it reaches approximately 8cm `it's time to re-order`.

    I measured it the other day and I have about 15" left. Of course, I ordered in July...........and the price has dropped since! Never mind! I have a stanley oil (small one) which is a stand alone and heats the livingroom/kitchen and is on all the time ....since October..... and the central heating comes on at 5pm and off at 7.30 in the evening so I reckon I should be OK til Christmas?

    I only light a fire at Christmas time and the price of solid fuel is still, in my opinion, much more expensive than the oil............although in a few years time, if the oil shortage that is supposed to be there, keeps escalating, I will have to think of a substitute for the stove!!!:o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 448 ✭✭Guvnor


    Hi Suitseir,

    15inches would leave you with 37cm or so.

    I think you would be advised to do what I do and dip it every week and see what the weekly usage is.

    I also bought a few cheap thermometers from http://www.ukweathershop.co.uk/ - this will then give you an accurate temperature for the room.

    I also find that having zoned heating helps - however I use old fashioned timer clocks with half hour settings for the best flexibility.

    What I find works best for us is heat on for half an hour and off for a period of time dependent on outside temp and time of day. Now we have heat on 2-3 hours spread across the whole day. It will be on more if it goes to minus temps and less when in double figures.

    The zones we have are hot water, downstairs and upstairs.

    Hot water is only on when downstairs is on and upstairs is only on when downstairs is on.

    Also worth checking windows and doors for heat loss as in gaps and cold air coming in.


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