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Replacing a broken-braze on?

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  • 31-10-2008 11:14am
    #1
    Turbulent Bill
    Registered Users Posts: 1,622 ✭✭✭


    Hi folks,
    Thanks to shoddy components / my ham-fistedness (delete as applicable), one of the braze-ons used to fix my pannier rack to the seatstay has broken and now twirls uselessly inside the frame when the screw is turned. This makes the rack rattle, and it looks like the only way to remove the rack is to cut the bolt.

    Assuming this works, can you get replacement clamps/brackets to hold the 'arms' of the rack to the seatstay? It's a Trek MTB and has a wishbone-type seatstay, with a braze-on on either side of the same tube (the other braze-on is fine).

    I realise this could do with a photo, but hopefully it makes sense.

    Thanks!


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    #2
    Raam
    Registered Users Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    Turbulent Bill wrote: »
    Hi folks,
    Thanks to shoddy components / my ham-fistedness (delete as applicable), one of the braze-ons used to fix my pannier rack to the seatstay has broken and now twirls uselessly inside the frame when the screw is turned. This makes the rack rattle, and it looks like the only way to remove the rack is to cut the bolt.

    Assuming this works, can you get replacement clamps/brackets to hold the 'arms' of the rack to the seatstay? It's a Trek MTB and has a wishbone-type seatstay, with a braze-on on either side of the same tube (the other braze-on is fine).

    I realise this could do with a photo, but hopefully it makes sense.

    Thanks!

    it is possible to fix this. I had the same issue with a bottle cage boss.
    Cliff in cyclelogical had a tool he made which did the job for me.
    I think it is just a screw with a hex head. Then it also has a serrated washer/bolt on it. You plonk it in the boss, turn the screw. The serrated bolt holds the loose piece in place while the screw tightens whatever is inside. At least that's how I think it works.


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    #3
    blorg
    Registered Users Posts: 15,989 ✭✭✭✭blorg


    There may be an option of attaching the rack to a hole in the bridge across the stays- if you have one (you may not.)

    Alternatively you can use P-Clips on the stays.

    The top attachment of the rack is less critical than the bottom anyway (the weight is all supported on the bottom.)


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    #4
    Turbulent Bill
    Registered Users Posts: 1,622 ✭✭✭Turbulent Bill


    Thanks guys,
    Raam, I think the braze-on is past the point of rescue - most of the boss has broken internally so I don't think it'll ever work as a fixture again.

    Blorg, there's no bridge across the stays, but p-clips might do the job. Anything to stop the rattle and squeak when going over even the smallest bump...


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    #5
    Raam
    Registered Users Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    Turbulent Bill wrote: »
    Thanks guys,
    Raam, I think the braze-on is past the point of rescue - most of the boss has broken internally so I don't think it'll ever work as a fixture again.

    Blorg, there's no bridge across the stays, but p-clips might do the job. Anything to stop the rattle and squeak when going over even the smallest bump...

    I thought the same with mine, but it turned out OK :)

    Have a read here, it may help
    http://www.bikecircle.com/forums/tech-issues/34743-bottle-cage-bolt-turning-in-boss.html

    This is the technique I was trying to describe...
    Another way is to use a jam nut. Screw a nut all the way onto a longer cage bolt. Screw the bolt into the rivnut almost up to the nut. Holding the bolt still with a hex, with a wrench tighten down the nut fairly tight so it recrimps the rivnut. I've done this successfully on an aluminum frame. After learning this, in future never torque down too hard on a bolt/rivnut without the cage in place.


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