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Plastering, build, dilemma...

  • 23-10-2008 11:10pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 447 ✭✭


    Hi guys,

    First post in this section, and sorry it's a long one.

    To cut out all of the stories - cash flow/health problems - I am left with a bedroom at my house that has been totally stripped out and is now an empty shell. It's about 8x10ft. Room was due to be redone along with an extension which will not happen now - I now would like to put the room back into it's original order. Currently the room has exposed floor-boards and roof-beams (felt roof house btw) and the walls are bare concrete blocks with all previous plaster having been stripped off.

    I'm looking at a section of wall that is intact from before, looks to be 1cm thick plasterboard, with a 1cm gap between it and the block-wall, and the plasterboard is fixed in place using some kind of concrete/plaster mix? Is this a good way of doing things? I had thought that a wooden frame was needed and then the drywall/plasterboard was mounted to the wooden frame using screws?

    The house was built (poorly) in circa 1970, and redone in 92, I can't remember if this room was redone or not though.

    Regarding the ceiling, is it just a case of building a frame again, and screwing the plasterboard in place? Should this be done before or after the walls??! Or does it need a frame, there are beams going across, though nowhere as many as I would have liked - though I can see nail-holes in them as if the previous ceiling was held in that way.

    Following the plasterboard going in place, I then fill up all the gaps (and screw-heads, corners) with some compound, taping etc, compound - what 3 layers, sanding in between and at the end..? Once smooth and free of dust and totally dry, is it ok to wallpaper over this?

    I've been reading as much as I can on this both in books and on the net, but I don't pretend to know what I'm on about - I don't!!! When it comes to DIY, I've used filler, but it's mainly been on cars as I repair body-damage - but at the least, I'm mobile.

    Now, please anyone give comments to the above, or steps, or links that I can read - but please leave out the smart comments or anything negative as I have no choice but to do this, again - I know I'm no expert!

    Thanks in advance,

    'josh

    EDIT: Apparently the way the plasterboard was hung is called 'dot and dab'? or words to that effect. Looks like I need to do it that way, since there is one wall already done and another wall half-way done so I suppose I'd need to match the depth to what's already there - and using wooden battons or whatever would prob be too deep. Thoughts?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,921 ✭✭✭2 stroke


    Advice? Where do I start? You havent a clue, but seem to have learned more than some people that do this for a living. You shouldn't tackle this job without working with someone experienced.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    Where to start?
    Are the blockwork walls insulated with a cavity or solid block that must be insulated internally? ( Is wall 300mm or 225mm overall?)

    Dabs of plaster can be used to fix plaster slabs to a wall, but a batten is sytll required around the perimiter of each wall. Getting the right consistancey in the plaster Dabs is important and IMO experience is required.

    The timber ceiling joist should be at 400mm centres. (Though 600mm centres might will still work for 1200mm wide slabs).

    As a diy job I'd fix timber battens to the wall at 400mm centres. install 25 or 50mm thick Kingspan insulation between batten, staple 500 guage plastic over external walls and fix plasterboard over same.

    Plasterslab ceiling then wall. Insulate between ceiling joists with Rockwool, staple plastic vapour barrier to whole ceiling, tape joints and slab over.

    Retain a good Plaster to "skim" room. If you must do it yourself, then use plasterslab boards that can be "taped & filled". You must tape and fill each joint, sand and paint. You don't need to plaster the whole wall or ceiling - just the joints.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 174 ✭✭baldieman


    Since the room is stripped You could take advantage and insulate to the last. If you don't know much about this, then you need at least a good handyman to do the work, You could save money by being the gofor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    agree with everything said above
    fix batons to the wall. It will be easier to rip down any remaining dabbed walls and re do it all "properly".
    get some 1x2 batons and fix as below. Definitely insulate between them in a house that age. Vapour barrier is vital, no point in insulating without it.

    Dont attempt to skim the walls or ceilings, you will spend hours, make a mess and then have to pay someone more to fix it than you would have in the first place.

    Patching is fine, skimming a wall is totally different. I skimmed a 4m2 bathroom ceiling recently and it was a royal pain in the arse. Its ok now but it took me more than 1 go at it.


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