Solid timber floor (oak) has risen. Any solution to it?

Mayo Exile

Friends of mine put down a floor (solid timber - oak) last October in a new house. However since then it has risen in places to the extent where the only solution seems to be to take it up and start again.

Just wondering is there any solution possible, short of this drastic measure? They didn't think this would happen. Followed all the steps. Left floor in room for a good while. When it was put down, a gap (at least quarter/third, maybe even a half of an inch) was left all around to allow for expansion. It's one of those tongue and groove put together jobs. Is laid on a concrete floor. Underlay also used.

Also wondering would the appallingly damp summer we had have anything to do with it too?

Avns1s

The damp summer could have a lot to do with it but in reality, if it's solid oak, it should have at least 10mm left around the outside when being fitted. This is more than 1/4 inch.

It might be possible to remove the skirting and increase the margin on all sides with something like a biscuit jointer. This should solve the problem.

Don't overdo the margin at this stage. It will probably shrink again when the heat comes on for the winter and it dries out a bit. You don't want the margin sticking out under the skirting.

Hope this helps.

builditwell

Hi Mayo

Is there a vapour barrier in place under the underlay, there should be one where a floor like this is layed. Also is the floor held together by clips or is it just a straight glue job. And a long shot but how new is the concrete floor as new floor need a long time to dry out. This happens a fair bit in new builds where contractor is rushing or client is pushing to finish also a lot in extentions. Avns1s is right about the expansion gap at least 10 mm where allowed any more and it could well shrink inside skirting boundary. However i would remove skirting first and see if the floor is being pinched by walls on both sides then try to remove last board at walls and remove about 10mm. Sounds nasy good luck with the fix

Regards
Builditwell

Mayo Exile

Thanks for the quick replys! Apologies too if I didn't make clear that it's the floor in the friends house not mine! My fault! Just posting on their behalf.

They are in the house since Oct/Nov 2006. Floor was laid down in Nov 2007. Thinking now its probably a quarter inch gap from the wall to floor. No clips or glue used. Tongue and groove fitted. Concrete floor, overlay, then the floor itself.

Bulge/rise has occurred near door into the room. About 8 feet long, 3 pieces wide. It was the first section put down.

What is a vapour barrier? Also what is a biscuit jointer? I wouldn't be very techy about these things!

builditwell

Hi mayo,

The vapour barrier is just a sheet of polythene usually 500 or 1000 gauge (the thickness of sheet) This sheet is layed onto bare concrete then underlay then the floor. The barrier prevents any moisture from penetrating the underside of the board from the slab.The floor is floated as in not fixed to floor by nails or clip system so its got to be pushing against somthing to cause it to belly like that. just ondering if there is any pipes under the floor and if any water has ever been spilled on floor in a big way although more of the floor would be like this .interested to see how this works out. Also just from your original post are you saying the concrete floor was layed in oct and the timber in nov ??

Regards
Builditwell.

Mayo Exile

Thanks for further reply Builditwell! They moved into the house (new build) in October of 2006. The floor was put down in November 2007.

I'd guess the concrete floor itself would have been poured in early or mid 2006 to allow it to dry out thoroughly? Yes? No spillages on the floor as far as I know. I can ask them again.

Further question: when laying down a laminate floor would you also put down a vapour barrier as well as underlay? Are they as prone to expansion/rising too?

builditwell

Well Mayo Exile,

Im a bit stumped, there was more than ample time for the floor to dry out so its not moisture from below floor although it still may be a pipe which might explain the expansion.

As for laminate is is not standard practice but is a good method to ensure maximum life of the floor product.its not necesary unless its onto concrete or sand and cement slab.

Regards
Builditwell

the crank

the easiest way to sort it is draw a line where the skerting is resting on the floor, than take up the skerting and drill a rake of small holes on the wall side of the line than chisel the rest of the timber out. not a nice job to do but it works, if you can stay away from the rad as its near impossible to do under neat it, when you'v all the timber out and i mean all. you should be able to simply push the floor back down flat. get some thing for your knees youll need it. hope this helps.