Which Driver?

stevire

Looking to upgrade to another driver, I tend to slice slightly or get a lot of air but still 220+ looking for more consistency, accuracy and distance!

I have my mind set on:
Taylormade R7 Draw Driver
http://www.direct-golf.co.uk/golf_drivers/taylormade/r7_draw_driver_golf_drivers/p4046

Taylormade Burner Draw Driver
http://www.direct-golf.co.uk/golf_drivers/taylormade/burner_draw_driver_golf_drivers/p6851

Can anyone sway me to pick one over the other? Anyone own either of the drivers above? Or recommend me a better one for a similar price range?

Thanks.

PhilipMarlowe

I don't own either but the burner has a 1" longer shaft so in theory, the other one will be more consistent and will suit a slower swing speed better.
More consistent in other words...

copacetic

what are you currently hitting and how do you hit it? what shaft is in it?

ShriekingSheet

Here's a thread for you from possibly the nerdiest golf forum on the planet (the posters all have the make, model and spec of every club in their bag as their sigs!)
http://thesandtrap.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16457

Anyway, some good anicdotal pros and cons in there for you.

Personally, I'd make sure you avoid a high launch shaft in whatever you get, given that you already hit it pretty high. The TM site could have some info on which of the stock shafts fly medium/low. I wouldn't attempt to lower your ball flight by lessening the loft unless you're a pretty low h'cap.

I also hit it high and use the Grafalloy ProLaunch Red in a Ping G10 and find it good for getting a controlable flight.

kingshankly

I have a taylormade burner draw driver hitting it well there down in price to €200 now ( damn) don't expect it to cure your slice though I had a problem with a slice too but I changed my swing plane which has definatly improved my driving I also have the r7 draw irons and would highly recommend them

stevire

copacetic wrote: »

what are you currently hitting and how do you hit it? what shaft is in it?

I have MacGregor 400cc Driver w/ Regular Flex Staff (a girl I know!! ) , i'm not a bad hitter with irons (e.g 7 iron I'd reach 170-185) with a smooth swing. I have to change my swing with the driver (with this particular driver anyway) just to get it to hit straight but with that I loose distance.

Hoping to get a driver with a bigger sweet spot, accuracy and distance is the main key for me.

Is there much of a difference between the r7 draw driver and the r7 460?
the r7 460 is a bit more expensive but seems to be getting the better reviews..

Thanks for all the responses!

copacetic

I really think you need to try out a few, either at a demo day, by borrowing friends etc etc. You might want to check out your distances though, if you can hit a 7 iron 170-185 and your driver only 220, there is something seriously wrong somewhere. You should be hitting your driver 300+ or so based on that 7 iron distance.

Sandwich

stevire wrote: »

Looking to upgrade to another driver,....looking for more consistency, accuracy and distance!

If thats all you're looking for, should be easy enough then.;)

Second compacetic's post. There something seriously out of whack if your 7 iron figures are correct ( i hope they're not meters! and on the fly!).

Most likely you're mistaken about your yardages.

Or else, you may have 'long hitter's disease' which involves a technique wherby you hood and/or close the clubface, in effect delofting it and so making it more like hitting a 4 or 5 iron. Folks with the habit often dont even kow they have it but have gained it by finding they just hit the ball longer that way. But they wonder why they hit so many woods with a hook or running along the ground.

Anything big, titanium, with a decent shaft should do the job for you - all of them are much of a muchness - having one that suits your swing is far important the the brandname painted on it.
While it's homo habilis' nature to endlessly debate the merits of the weapon you would be best served by getting your swing analysed, picking a shaft that suits your swing speed (not the speed you would like it to be), and a face angle that suits your swing path, and whatever clubhead is on best offer that day.

Colours, brands, three letter acronyms, 'specials', 'tour models', 'latest update', etc are for the delusional.

stevire

No im talking yardages, I can hit a 3-iron the same distance as my driver and straight. When I try the same swing on the driver it goes about 250 but a serious slice, 100+ yards to the right!!

I've tried the Ping G5 too, an improvement on my own and slightly more consistent but still short on yardages...

kingshankly

stevire wrote: »

No im talking yardages, I can hit a 3-iron the same distance as my driver and straight. When I try the same swing on the driver it goes about 250 but a serious slice, 100+ yards to the right!!

I've tried the Ping G5 too, an improvement on my own and slightly more consistent but still short on yardages...

if you can consistently hit a 3 iron 250 yards I ask is there a need for a driver especially if your slice is so bad

stevire

I only get 220 max with the 3 iron... I'd be happy to hit a driver the same distance consistently, at least then I have something to work off!

PhilipMarlowe

I hate these distance threads.
My 7 iron is a 150 yard carry.
My 3 iron is 205.

Saying your 7 iron is 170 to 185 yards (with a smooth swing) is too vague. The 15 yards difference is another full club. Get more specific about your carry distance with each club and it will help your approaches. Only the distance the ball carries through the air is relevant - especially over a hazard... balls don't roll much thru water or sand.

Now is a perfect time to measure your distances on a practice ground because of the heavy conditions, the balls aren't benefiting from roll. On a calm day, hit 20 balls with your 7 and see where the majority land (plug )

By the way, 185 with a smooth 7 is crazy stuff. Your 3 iron off the tee on most par 4's would leave you a 7 at most for your 2nd. You must strike it great or have pretty upright lofts.

stevire

Im not counting the roll, I get a good bit of air so roll is usually minimal. I practise in the Spawell grass bays and judge my distance from the distances there... Off the ground I'd get 150, off the tee I'd get the extra 25-30yards with perfect conditions. I use a four iron for 200 yards, if off the ground I generally add about 20 yards to the distance to choose a club from my own distance measurements (obv lie dependent too). I have charts done out for each club, off the tea and off the ground. I spent a couple of weeks measuring my distances a while back, by using 2 clubs per session (110 balls) and get the average distance hit throughout the session then take note.

At the end of the day, I'm still frustrated, I dread the par 5s as most of the guys I play with are single to low teen handicappers and can easily drive 250+. I just find it intimidating as I take out the 3 iron to drive 220 yards, presuming good conditions (which in Ireland doesnt come too often)

So with winter around the corner, I want a good dependable driver where I can feel confident with driving and drive it accurately in any weather.

kingshankly

have to agree with licksy hate distance threads mind you that is crazy hitting at the very max with my 7 iron I might squeeze 165/170 and my irons are 2 up

stevire

Thread is getting derailed. The main point of this thread is to get a good opinion on the drivers in question and if anyone has any other suggestions!

Sandwich wrote: »

Or else, you may have 'long hitter's disease' which involves a technique wherby you hood and/or close the clubface, in effect delofting it and so making it more like hitting a 4 or 5 iron. Folks with the habit often dont even kow they have it but have gained it by finding they just hit the ball longer that way. But they wonder why they hit so many woods with a hook or running along the ground.

Anything big, titanium, with a decent shaft should do the job for you - all of them are much of a muchness - having one that suits your swing is far important the the brandname painted on it.

Good post, I can' t hit any woods either. I have recovery club which does the job most of the woods most of the time, if not its the 3/4 iron.

Is there much of a difference between the r7 Draw and the r7 460?

Andystoran

stevire wrote: »

At the end of the day, I'm still frustrated, I dread the par 5s as most of the guys I play with are single to low teen handicappers and can easily drive 250+. I just find it intimidating as I take out the 3 iron to drive 220 yards, presuming good conditions (which in Ireland doesnt come too often)

So with winter around the corner, I want a good dependable driver where I can feel confident with driving and drive it accurately in any weather.

I honestly cant understand this.. You should never be embarassed about hitting a 3 iron 220 yards straight. Guys that go around thinking their superior golfers just coz they can drive the ball far are deluded.

If i hit my 3 iron 220 straight i wouldnt use my driver anymore.

neckedit

Hey Steve, the main difference between the 460 and the draw model, is basically the draw model is Heel weighted, which slows the heel of the club down through impact therefore making the toe of the club pass the heel in a closing fashion, this helps reduce fade/slice, While it doesn't eliminate it completely they can make the right shot a little more controllable. While the 460 model is more neutrally weighted. Both are 460cc and unfortunately both old models. Current models are SuperQuad, Burner, Burner Draw and Tour Burner. As with buying any new piece of hardware you should really get into a bay with a launch monitor of any kind and seek advice from a good fitter who'll let ya try a few different options. I know people will say a bay is no good and launch monitors are fixed to help sell....... ya da ya da ya, Rest assured they are not and if your comparing launch angles and spin rates of differing shafts and heads its all comparable. Hope this helps man:p

stevire

With winter weather, the 3iron will come up a good 20 yards short of 220 and if cross winds etc no guarantees itll be as controllable in the air. I know this myself from past winters. I still feel my driving is a weakness...

Just want opinions on the drivers please!!

stevire

neckedit wrote: »

Hey Steve, the main difference between the 460 and the draw model, is basically the draw model is Heel weighted, which slows the heel of the club down through impact therefore making the toe of the club pass the heel in a closing fashion, this helps reduce fade/slice, While it doesn't eliminate it completely they can make the right shot a little more controllable. While the 460 model is more neutrally weighted. Both are 460cc and unfortunately both old models. Current models are SuperQuad, Burner, Burner Draw and Tour Burner. As with buying any new piece of hardware you should really get into a bay with a launch monitor of any kind and seek advice from a good fitter who'll let ya try a few different options. I know people will say a bay is no good and launch monitors are fixed to help sell....... ya da ya da ya, Rest assured they are not and if your comparing launch angles and spin rates of differing shafts and heads its all comparable. Hope this helps man:p

Thanks a mill! What I was looking for!!

neckedit

More than welcome man, I see your based in Athy, There is a guy in Birr ( think Birr is near you , geography not a strong point) who uses a TrackMan monitoring system, don't know too much about him, all I know is the Trackman is an amazing setup that tracks your flight in real time, was developed by the military for tracking missiles. I was at the Ping fitting centre last year doing some training and got to use it there. I think the guy from Birr is a boards user, Maybe he could PM you.:p

Mister Sifter

SteveIre, i have the Burner and really like it. Very forgiving and easy to hit. I don't hit it as far as i used to hit my old Ping G10, but for accuracy and forgiveness it's first class. I don't have the draw version though, just the normal one.

j14

Hi Steve, I'm a complete and utter starter but I saw a Driver with the word "BURNER" (in red type) on it whilst I was in Golf Works Lucan yesterday. They are having a Liquidation Sale at the moment so prices may be dirt cheap. Just thought I should give you a heads up as it may save you some cash.

Sorry I don't have more detailed info but I wasn't really looking at drivers cos at the moment even the thought of hitting a 5 iron scares me!

PhilipMarlowe

I have the superquad which has the moveable weights so you can set it up to your liking. Since I got mine I had it set up neutral to hit a higher launching straight shot. Recently I have tried it on a draw setting and am very happy with it. The ball flight is lower and it corrects a tendency to miss on the left (i'm a leftie). I got it custom fit with a prolaunch red shaft. My guess is that one draw driver is as good as the next but the shaft would be where I would invest time/money getting right.

Niall09

Why not get a custom fit lesson from your local pro? He would tell you what is going wrong and would recommend a suitable driver too.

(sorry if this has already been mentioned, just skimmed through the thread)