Riding a wave question

dedon

I am having a problem where I catch a wave before it breaks right. I am picking up speed nicely and am getting ready to stand up but the board just drops and heads nose first into the wave and hence me with it

What am I doing wrong? Some waves are ok.

Gone West

Is this only on right handers?
What sort of board are you using?

On a longboard, you will want to be catching the wave a lot earlier, and pop up early, before the wave gets too steep if possible.
These longboards don't have much rocker on the nose, and you really have to lean back sometimes to stop the nose digging in and catapulting you.

Swish up your technique a bit, try angling your board severly left/right before take off, try pointing it straight, try a few in between. Keep replicating the problem until you figure out exactly what it is. Then keep changing technique until its fixed.
The main thing is not to get caught up in the rush of it, free yourself of your mind and think calmly when surfing, and you will do well.

dedon

Thanks for that! I think I might just be too late popping up. The wave just gets too steep and the board drops. I will try hitting the big ones at more of an angle as well.

Obviously I didn’t have any problem when I was learning on the white water. Just seems to happen to odd time when I am not tackling the bigger waves before the break

I am using a 7FT by the way

Notch000

not sure but you need to get down the front of the board sufficently to get gravity/momentum to drop you down the wave, then jump up and get ypu weight back sufficently to keep the nose out of the water, somehting like that, ypu 'l get a feel for it with experience, it hard when you have to think about it
basically
practice practice practice have fun, party on

dedon

Well had a good surf last night and I was basically not popping up on time and applying weight to the back on the board to keep the nose up on the big waves. I seem to have fixed the problem. Thanks lads