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Handling - Truggy, buggy

  • 06-07-2008 1:27pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,460 ✭✭✭


    Hi,
    After having my truggy out quite a few times now....I have to say I have not been impressed with the precision of the handling. It just can't turn very fast. My driving has improved and that's made me better at turning.....I'm just wondering can I knock more out of the truggy by changing settings....there currently on default.

    I know buggy's have better handling but is there a great deal of difference or a small deal over a truggy?

    It would also be nice to be able to adjust the brakes abit more. Abit more stopping power would be nice.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 453 ✭✭seamus-2k7


    Hi,
    After having my truggy out quite a few times now....I have to say I have not been impressed with the precision of the handling. It just can't turn very fast. My driving has improved and that's made me better at turning.....I'm just wondering can I knock more out of the truggy by changing settings....there currently on default.

    I know buggy's have better handling but is there a great deal of difference or a small deal over a truggy?

    It would also be nice to be able to adjust the brakes abit more. Abit more stopping power would be nice.

    Thanks.


    Possibly weak batteries. I find that batteries usualy have short life so steering power is lost quickly

    You could get hi torque servo's which make they steering or trottle and brakes more powerfull.

    As for brakes, they can be adjusted on the throttle/brake servo arm. there are 'after market' brakes availible but that depends on the make/model of your truggy


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,460 ✭✭✭workaccount


    seamus-2k7 wrote: »
    Possibly weak batteries. I find that batteries usualy have short life so steering power is lost quickly

    You could get hi torque servo's which make they steering or trottle and brakes more powerfull.

    As for brakes, they can be adjusted on the throttle/brake servo arm. there are 'after market' brakes availible but that depends on the make/model of your truggy

    The wheels have no problem turning. The truggy just understeers too much. I'd love if it was abit more of the other extreme.

    I suppose it's got alot to do with driving it on grass too. I'd imagine it might oversteer more on gravel or dirt/clay.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭T-Maxx


    A bit of negative camber on the front wheels will help with steering. Maybe some other tires? Also letting go of the throttle slightly to transfer some weight back to the front wheels during cornering will help some.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 44 lotus791


    there are loads of things you can change . but here is the best advice i can give you ....go to a club put it on a track and play with the settings in a controlled place this is the only way you will understand what changes give what effect . cause you will be running on the same bit of ground lap after lap .



    as for getting it to turn in without knowing what set up you have on it makes it really hard but here goes .......on flat grass use a pin tire like a grp grip truggy tyre then medium springs 50w to 70w oil ,driveshafts just below level front and rear thinner anti roll bar on the front ,diff oils 5 front 10 middle 3 rear ,maybe lay the front shocks in on the tower and out on the arms .max front kick up and if its flat grass as little anti squat as you can get on it .also if there is a servo saver on it screw it up at least to 6mm that is providing your using good servos.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,460 ✭✭✭workaccount


    lotus791 wrote: »
    there are loads of things you can change . but here is the best advice i can give you ....go to a club put it on a track and play with the settings in a controlled place this is the only way you will understand what changes give what effect . cause you will be running on the same bit of ground lap after lap .



    as for getting it to turn in without knowing what set up you have on it makes it really hard but here goes .......on flat grass use a pin tire like a grp grip truggy tyre then medium springs 50w to 70w oil ,driveshafts just below level front and rear thinner anti roll bar on the front ,diff oils 5 front 10 middle 3 rear ,maybe lay the front shocks in on the tower and out on the arms .max front kick up and if its flat grass as little anti squat as you can get on it .also if there is a servo saver on it screw it up at least to 6mm that is providing your using good servos.

    The track thing sounds like a great idea. I might setup some sort of a track in the back garden for this at home for practising.


    I really raised the ride height there in the last few mins by adjusting the suspension to see if that will make a difference. I won't be able to try it out for a while as the steering rod came away from the wheel this evening and I need a new 3mm washer which should be in the post tomorrow to me. Dya reckon changing the ride height will do much?

    The reason that part of the steering came away from the rod I think is to do with too much throttle when cornering and the wheels were ballooning. There seems to be too much power in this force 32 engine. The wheels are always ballooning.

    The tyres I'm using at the moment have fairly thick pins. Similiar to this http://www.adrmodel.com/public/catalog/images/grp_grip.jpg but with rectangular pins.

    I'm not sure what you mean when you say driveshaft abit lower than level and thinner at the back. What do you mean also when you say lay the front shocks in on the tower? My machine is always squating under acceleration as the springs are very soft which might have something to do with the front tyres ballooning.

    Cheers.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 453 ✭✭seamus-2k7


    Using thicker diff oil might help stop the ballooning


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,208 ✭✭✭T-Maxx


    seamus-2k7 wrote: »
    Using thicker diff oil might help stop the ballooning

    How is thicker diff oil going to do that?

    (You could stick some duct tape inside the tire though, else try a other tires.)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 453 ✭✭seamus-2k7


    T-Maxx wrote: »
    (You could stick some duct tape inside the tire though, else try a other tires.)

    doesnt that slow down the transfer from the centre diff ie slowing the wheels?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 44 lotus791


    ok i left a comma out .... thinner front anti roll bar .........driveshafts level for ride height .....lay the shocks in on the front ie more of a 45 degree angle makes the front suspension a little softer to generate grip for turning.tape the tyres on the inside with duct tape as said but drill two 5mm holes in the rim (across from each other ) to allow the air out .. and like i said before a decent 21 is more effective than the bigger engines as you can use the power better . think of it this way would your road car handle better with an extra 200 hp and the same suspension lol im sure you get what i mean .


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,455 Mod ✭✭✭✭coolwings


    Errrrr .... you could always slow down a bit to get tighter turns.
    Some famous race drivers learned to use the brakes as well as the accellerator. :D

    To answer a couple of the questions arising above.....
    Buggies turn tighter faster generally due to a lower centre of gravity. All other things being equal, they exert less lateral force on the contact between tyre and road surface. You can't get this as long as you drive your truggy, but you have the benefit of being able to use rougher road surfaces.

    Negative camber is beneficial for extreme turns (and bad for even tyre wear!). Try a little negative camber. Set lower edge of wheel further out (wider wheelbase) than upper edge. Try to think of it like this: when on a curve the inner wheel loses grip and begins to lift slightly, at that moment the outer wheel should be achieving 90 degrees to the road for maximum grip.

    When a truggy runs on a hard bumpy surface (dirt road) softer shock springs will have a huge effect on improved road holding.

    Toe: Harder to explain this. Imaging you are skiing on snow. Toe-in is when you point the tip of your skis towards each other. Toe out would be the tips of the skis wide and the rear edges closer to each other.
    Toe-in helps your truggy move in a straighter line, so you would like to apply toe-in if it wanders (drifts to the left or right erratically) without significant steering input.
    Your truggy should have 2 degrees of toe-in at the rear, and less toe-in maybe 1 to 1.5 degrees toe-in at the front. I suspect you have toe out at the moment. Try adjusting that. :cool:


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 44 lotus791


    i can get my truggy to turn in better than my buggy :) i can also run a faster laptime .

    http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddwnld.php?prod_id=2588&kategoria=0&catName=XRAY%20XB808


    scroll down and download the set up book its the 4th one down .....this will help you and explain a lot ....


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