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how to handle a rise flatly.

  • 06-06-2008 9:13pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 291 ✭✭


    :pi know this thread was going a while ago but am interested in peoples opinions on these two types of bars for mountainbikes,. i have recently switched myself from a riser to a flat at a cost and am having a couple of teething problems. basically i notice my wrists, neck and part of my back can get sore some days whilst others not - mainly my wrists though and parts of the palm of my hands - guess this is from the pressure. i really prefer the feel of the bars both down and uphill and steering is much more acurate and fast but on the flat which i suppose is the majority of the ride really i find i have difficulty getting a comfortable position as im a bit too low down. any advice or opiniions?????????????:eek::pac:
    should i cut my losses and go back for a riser? spent about 100 on the flat bar so wont be too happy about that.

    a possible riser would be http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=11618


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 738 ✭✭✭AndyP


    Sore wrists and back could be associated with poor saddle position, your weight might be getting pushed into the bars rather than down through the saddle.


  • Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 1,227 ✭✭✭rp


    If you want comfort plus performance, On-one Midge drops are the way to go: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21643, not for the fashion-conscious but these are great off-road, you can find lots of different positions (good during a long ride), reviewed here: http://www.63xc.com/mattc/midge.htm

    I also use the flatter On-one Mungo bars on my commuter (see Images of beauty thread).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 291 ✭✭littleknown


    thanks for the responses. when you mention saddle position what exactly do you mean should it be moved backwards?it does feel as if im being pushed onto the bars a bit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 738 ✭✭✭AndyP


    Ok, firstly, I gave up mtb riding years ago and now just stick to the road and secondly without knowing your exact set up this is just random advice.

    Ideally the nose of the saddle should be angled very slightly upwards, when you put an effort on the pedals a saddle that is nose down will push you forward rather than keep your weight over the back wheel. Also the saddle sould be far enough back that there is some flex in your arms but not so much that you have to lean forward too much to reach them. A google search for 'correct saddle position' might give more specific advice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35 Scrivo


    AndyP wrote: »
    Ok, firstly, I gave up mtb riding years ago and now just stick to the road and secondly without knowing your exact set up this is just random advice.

    Ideally the nose of the saddle should be angled very slightly upwards, when you put an effort on the pedals a saddle that is nose down will push you forward rather than keep your weight over the back wheel. Also the saddle sould be far enough back that there is some flex in your arms but not so much that you have to lean forward too much to reach them. A google search for 'correct saddle position' might give more specific advice.

    IMO, this is completely wrong for mtb. Your saddle should be angled slightly down and be mid railed. This is so you can easily shift your weight over the back wheel. If you are stretching to hold the bar, your frame is probably too big/ stem too long. Not a whole lot you can do by moving your saddle on this one.


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